A highlight of my incredible trip to Argentina was stepping foot onto Martillo Island, located on the southernmost reaches of Patagonia and famed for being home to hundreds of penguins.
I adore seeing wildlife in its natural habitat. One of my favourite travel experiences that I remember vividly was when I saw puffins on the Faroe Islands during mating season. That’s why I wasn’t going to miss my chance visiting Martillo Island: the only place from Ushuaia where you can walk with penguins.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Ushuaia for a penguin-watching is between November and February, when their population is highest and the penguins come to shore to breed and raise their chicks. You will most likely be able to also see them in October and March, but not at full volume so speak.
How to book the Penguin tour to Martillo Island
It’s important to know that you can only step foot on Martillo island through one company called Piratour. They have what I call the ‘penguin monopoly’. Piratour offers a few different tours in Ushuaia. I opted to do the Penguin Colony + Navigation through the Beagle Channel which offers the most comprehensive tour of this region lasting 8-9 hours.
Piratour have a small office in the centre of town so can you walk in and book directly with them. Luckily I was in Ushuaia for a few days so there were still some spaces available on their tour for the following day, but they were booked up on the Saturday and Sunday, so I advice booking a tour before you arrive to avoid disappointment if you’re only going to be in Ushuaia for a short time.
There are other organised tours available that offer boat trips to Martillo Island to see the penguins from the shore. You can’t however step foot on Martillo, so if you’re looking to see, walk with, and take up-close photos of the penguins you need to book with these guys. If you’re interested in these trips as well, I recommend browsing through these tours.
Journey to Martillo Island from Ushuaia
On the day of the tour, I woke up filled with so much excitement. The prospect of seeing penguins had overridden the fact that I had barely slept and my eyes bag were almost hanging to the floor.
The tour began at the main pier in Ushuaia where Piratour have their own check-in office and they give you a card pass to pop around your neck before boarding the bus.
The tour departed at 8am and we drove for about 1 hour 45 minutes through beautiful landscapes of mountains and forest. On the way to Martillo island, the bus stopped at a collection of unique trees known as flag trees. Due to the direction of the wind, they have all grown sideways and permanently appear windswept.
Never one to miss a silly photo opportunity…
After another short drive, we arrived at the small boat to take us to Martillo island where the penguins live. They only allow 20 people on the island to ensure the environment is well looked after. Our group was split in two according to the colour of our card pass.
I was part of the first group so we embarked onto a boat towards the island. While waiting, the other tour visited a nearby whale museum which we would visit afterwards. There’s also time to visit a cafe near the quay if you’re feeling peckish. The biscuits were yummy!
Seeing the Penguins on Martillo Island
The boat ride to Martillo Island took approximately 15 minutes and it was a bumpy journey over the waters of the Beagle Channel. As soon as I disembarked, I was immediately overcome by the remoteness of it all. On the day I arrived, it was super windy and the cold pierced ever part of my face and body. Be sure to wrap up warm if you’re planning a visit.
Upon first glimpse of a penguin, my heart sang with joy, they looked so cute! In the first area we stopped at, most of the penguins were standing relatively still, huddled together as though keeping each other warm from the harsh winds. It was still early in the season, by the time you get to December, January and February the temperatures are at their warmest.
Our guide did an excellent job providing us with information about the rarely seen creatures, but admittedly, amid the cries of the wind and my desire to capture these south Polar birds with my camera, I didn’t always manage to hear what she was saying.
Martillo Island is small so an hour is a good length of time to walk around and stop at various points. I found one area where you could see their nests in the ground particularly interesting. They essentially make burrows underground and collect soft materials they can find, like twigs and leaves for extra warmth and comfort. I spotted a few Magellanic penguins in the process of making theirs!
There are a few types of species of penguins at the end of the world in Patagonia, and on Martillo Island you might see three species – Magellanic, Gentoo, and King penguins.
Magellanic
The majority of penguins on Isla Martillo appeared to be Magellanic penguins. Closely related to African penguins, Magellanic penguins have a black mask across their face and wide black bands at their throat.
They definitely seemed to be the most curious ones and most playful too. They waddled up to us – sometimes with their arms wide open so it looked like they were greeting us like old friends do! However, like all wildlife, we were told to respect their space and keep a respectful distance, after all, it’s their home and we are only visitors.
Gentoo
Gentoo penguins are the 3rd largest penguin species. They are black with distinctive orange beaks and feet, and a white strip that runs over the top of their eye. The strip is really pronounced so it looks like they have really bushy eyebrow – a bit like Albert Einstein!
King Penguin
King Penguins are the most rare to spot and that’s why their presence isn’t advertised by Piratour. However I did see one, but he was so far away I couldn’t take a good photo, alas! He was hanging out with a bunch of Gentoo Penguins and you could easily spot him because he was so much bigger and he had a bright yellow mane that looked to be molting. Usually King penguins are not usually found outside Antartica, but my guide said they have started spotting more in the last few years.
After walking with the penguins, we took the small boat back to the mainland and switched with the other group who must have been impatiently itching for their encounter. Though not before taking some obligatory selfies!
Afterwards, we all met back up and boarded a bigger boat to embark on a three-hour boat ride back to Ushuaia through the Beagle channel, which divides Argentina and Chile. The landscape of the channel was some of the best I’ve ever seen, and that’s why I think it deserves another blog at a later date.
I’ll keep you posted, but for now, I hope reading this has made you consider visiting this Southernmost region of the world!
Accommodation in Ushuaia
Ushuaia offers a variety of accommodation options to suit different preferences and budgets. Here are some popular areas and types of places to stay in Ushuaia:
City centre: Staying in the city centre provides easy access to restaurants, shops, and attractions. You’ll find a range of hotels, from boutique to mid-range, offering convenience and proximity to the city’s amenities.
Waterfront hotels: Ushuaia’s waterfront is picturesque and offers stunning views of the Beagle Channel and surrounding landscapes. Consider staying in a waterfront hotel to enjoy the scenery and the calming sound of the waves.
Cabins & cottages: If you’re looking for a more secluded and rustic experience, consider renting a cabin or cottage in the surrounding areas. This can provide a sense of tranquility and a chance to connect with nature.
My Accommodation pick
My friend and I stayed at Pacífico Apartamentos and I couldn’t recommend it more highly! I think it’s very good value considering how clean, modern, spacious and cosy everything is in the apartment. It also has all the amenities you need to ensure a comfortable and relaxing stay in Ushuaia. The location is great, just a short walk away from the city centre. The views from the balcony are lovely, and there’s also parking available if you have a hire car.
Essential reading → Ushuaia Travel Guide: Journey to the End of the World
