You don’t stumble into Vai Gioi Cave by accident. It’s buried inside a mountain, hidden from view. In my research of things to do in Ninh Binh, I didn’t see it mentioned even once. However, I knew that Ninh Binh was well-known for being home to a vast network of caves so I turned to Google Maps to track them down.
I made a note of them all. I was spending five days in the area and I gave myself the challenge to visit as many caves as possible. This might seem like a bit of an odd thing to do, but I love any kind of caves, grottos and caverns. They’re filled with so much wonder and mystery. And out of all the ones I visited, Vai Gioi Cave was my absolute favourite.
After climbing over 450 steps, a cathedral-sized cavern decorated with the most incredible stalactites and stalagmites greeted me at the top of the mountain.
If you’re lucky, you’ll have the place to yourself, just as I did. I have no idea why this cave is not a bigger attraction of Ninh Binh because it was genuinely one of the most impressive sights during my trip to Vietnam. If you weren’t into geology before your visit, I’m certain you will be afterwards.
I think the lack of visitors is partly a testimony to the amount of things to see in Ninh Binh, and partly due to the lack of information out there about this cave. As of 2025, little has been written online about Vai Gioi Cave, so to address this, here’s my dedicated blog post to this hidden wonder of Ninh Binh.
Inside Vai Gioi Cave – Heaven, Earth and Hell
Once you reach the entrance to the cave, carved deep into the karst belly of the mountain, take a moment to stand and marvel at the view before you. You don’t walk into Vai Gioi Cave – you descend into it via a flight of metal stairs that rattle under your feet.
Compared to the warmth of outside, the cave is cool and beautifully lit. The kind of atmospheric dim yellow hue that we associate with candles at night.
I’ve been into several caves around the world, but they’ve always been via tours or they’ve been written about in popular guide books and blogs. The thing about Vai Gioi Cave that makes it particularly special is that it feels almost forgotten about. There are no crowds, no fancy LED lights. And if you add in the dense amount of stalactites, the whole thing becomes otherworldly.
The cave is split across three floors: Heaven, Earth, and Hell. It is said that these stages reflect the Buddhist belief in karmic progression: from suffering, through human struggle, toward eventual enlightenment.
From the entrance, I descended onto Earth, and below I caught a glimpse of Hell in the distance which looked spectacular from my vantage point. Then, I spotted a sign that read ‘Paradise’ (Heaven). It pointed to another set of stairs that led to another floor completely hidden from view. Naturally, this piqued my curiosity. I’ve always wondered what Heaven might look like, and this was my chance to find out…
Ascent to Heaven
I climbed up the metal stairs which led to a series of small chambers where all the walls and ceilings became smaller, narrower and lower. Word of warning: if you suffer from claustrophobia you might want to stay behind in Earth and Hell!
Soon, I arrived at the tomb of a Buddha statue perched within the rock formations. At his feet, lay a few coins and notes. At the beginning of the walk, I read that for more than a thousand years, people have been coming to this cave to pray for good weather, peace and healthy crops. The site is believed to be the holy sanctuary where Earth and Heaven intersect – a place that instils harmony in the land.
The next small flights of stairs led to what felt like a metaphor as the opening of Heaven – a little open gap in the cave projecting out to a panoramic view of paddy fields and lush green mountains. I took a moment to enjoy the view and fan away the sweat from my face and body that had accrued from all the climbing!
Descending back down to Earth and Hell
Earth and Hell kind of merge into one, big cavernous space. There are no metal stairs to separate the levels, simply a natural downward slope and a few stone steps carved into the surface of the floor.
The ceilings yawned high above, dripping with stalactites that appeared like melting chandeliers. If someone had told me this place had inspired Salvador Dali, I wouldn’t have been surprised.
In many ways, this place doesn’t seem real. It’s so different from the the land we see with buildings, streets and roads. It’s almost alien-like. The shapes of all the rock formations take on anthropomorphic element. For a moment, I imagined being trapped inside the mouth of a huge dragon surrounded by a thousand teeth.
I wasn’t scared. Instead, I was hit by an overwhelming feeling of awe. The planet is full of wonder, and Vai Gioi Cave is one of those places.
How are stalactites and stalagmites formed?
Here’s the science of it: over thousands of years, water saturated with calcium carbonate seeps through the limestone. As the water drips, it leaves behind tiny mineral deposits. Bit by bit, stalactites (hanging) and stalagmites (rising from the ground) grow, forming the alien, crystalline architecture of the cave. No machines. No hands. Just time, pressure, and the slow heartbeat of geology.
If you want a more in-depth explanation, check out this article over at Live Science.
How to get to Vai Gioi Cave
First, you need to make your way to Thung Nham Ecotourism Area (also known as Thung Nham Bird Valley). The trail starts on the right side of the road 200 m after the gate. It’s located between the two main entry gates.
All of the other attractions of Thung Cham are located after the second gate, and this is why I think most people overlook, or don’t realise that the entry path to Vai Gioi Cave is located in this otherwise empty section. Keep your eyes peeled for the steps to the cave.
Directions: 14 km from Ninh Binh city centre. From Ninh Binh follow QL1A south, turn right on DT491C to Hoa Lư, turn right to Thung Nham.
Price: Vai Gioi Cave is included in the price to visit the whole eco-complex. The complex is big and includes gardens, more caves, a boat ride and a chance to see local birdlife.
Adults: VND 150,000. Children: VND 100,000. Seniors: (80+) free. Disabled: free.
You might also like: Bich Dong Pagoda: The Mountain Cave Temple in Ninh Binh
