Ystad: The Wisteria Lane of South Sweden

Ystad, Skane

You know when something is almost too perfect it starts to possess an unnerving quality? Somewhere beyond the immaculate façade upheld by the community’s collective desire to ‘keep up appearances’ lies something a little bit dark and rotten.

David Lynch describes this underbelly of perfection best when he says,

…on the cherry tree there's this pitch oozing out – some black, some yellow, and millions of red ants crawling all over it. I discovered that if one looks a little closer at this beautiful world, there are always red ants underneath.

 

Ok, so maybe I have been watching too many David Lynch films, episodes of Desperate Housewives or reading too many Scandinavian crime thrillers, but Ystad in the province of Skane on the southern shore of Sweden has this slightly mysterious quality. It’s Sweden’s very own Wisteria Lane.

Ystad & its connection to crime fiction

This mysteriousness is heightened by the town’s close proximity to Ales Stenar, the site of 59 huge stones inexplicably laid to rest on top of a hill over a thousand years ago.

What’s more is the town’s link to famed whodunit series, Wallander, where the protagonist, a detective and police inspector is based in the small town of Ystad (now you can see why I was carried away by my imagination whilst I was there). And if we’re getting into Scandinavian fiction then some of you will be excited to know that Malmo, home to the incredibly addictive crime series, The Bridge, is only a 45-minute train ride away.

Ystad, home of Wallander in South Sweden

Is Ystad the prettiest town in Sweden?

As I walked along the picturesque cobbled streets lined with miniature houses of every colour, boasting flower baskets and perfectly pruned rose bushes, the place looked every bit the postcard. In fact, of everywhere I’ve been in Sweden, Ystad wins my vote for the prettiest town, for sure.

The whole town felt unusually quiet, being here on a weekday I suppose most people were at work and those who were retired or on holiday were scattered around the park or beach lapping up the exceptionally sunny weather.

Beach, Ystad
Apart from a few people cycling past me, and a number of dog walkers, I spent most of my time in the town gushing over the houses whilst trying my utmost not to appear like a peeping Tom.
Beautiful Sweden

Colourful buildings in Ystad, Skane

Orange house, Ystad

Ystad, Skane, Sweden

I’d never seen houses that look so cute anywhere before. The small ones are called street houses, they’re one up and one down with a small kitchen, and those are the ones I had my eyes on the most. I’d be happy living in one of those!

No matter where I walked I couldn’t find a single area considered run-down. Not a single flower out of place, unclipped bush, or façade that needed a new lick of paint, everything had been carefully attended to in spite of feeling like there was nobody around to do it.

Ystad

Beautiful home in Ystad, Sweden

Flowers, Sweden

A place to enjoy the good life

The town seemed too good to be true; surely there was something wrong with it? I honestly never make a habit of looking for flaws but then again I’ve never needed to because the frayed edges are usually there to spot in any given place.

Maybe what I was really looking at was my own visual take on the ‘good life’. Maybe that’s what makes this town so beguiling.

There’s no trickery to be found here. It’s beautiful yet simple, with an incredibly down-to-earth atmosphere. Essentially, that’s what the good life is to me. Being part of a community with the sea on one side and forestland on the other, not to mention a decent supply of organic shops nearby selling items like lavender honey.

osterlenkryddor

Half way through my trip to Ystad, I realised what it was that made Ystad feel slightly unsettling initially.

You see I’ve never been entirely comfortable around things that look too perfect… but I think that could easily change given the right environment. Ystad is perfect, but it isn’t pretentious. Instead, it has a very wholesome quality, that I imagine makes it the ideal place to live for families.  

Where to stay in Ystad

Whether you’re seeking a cozy boutique hotel, a seaside retreat, or a comfortable guesthouse, Ystad has something to offer. Here are some recommended areas and types of places to stay in Ystad:

Ystad’s Historic Centre: Staying in the heart of Ystad’s historic centre allows you to immerse yourself in the town’s medieval ambiance. You’ll be within walking distance of attractions, restaurants, and shops, and you can enjoy the architectural charm of the town’s centuries-old buildings. I recommend staying at Hotell Backagarden which is housed inside one Ystad traditional quaint buildings on a lovely street in the centre of town.

Ystad Beach: For a luxurious seaside experience, consider staying at Ystad Saltsjöbad. This iconic hotel offers stunning views of the Baltic Sea, a relaxing spa, and modern amenities. It’s a great choice if you’re looking to combine relaxation with exploration.

19 responses

  1. Such a beautiful looking town! Picture perfect in almost every way. Would love to visit here someday. Hopefully won’t experience too many of the red ants though…!

      1. I am the man walking out onto the pier with my children. I did not know you were behind me, taking photos. Nice surprise! Send me a check in the mail 😉

        1. Haha this is the BEST and most surprising comment that I’ve read on my blog! I couldn’t resist taking a snap because it summed up just how gorgeous the day was! I’m sorry for sneaking up behind you 😉

          Also, let me know if you’d like this photo in high-resolution, I’d be happy to send it to you via email.

          1. Sure, please send me the hi-res photo. I would like to frame and hang it. I have linked to your blog on my FB page and have gotten a lot of likes.

  2. Until now I’ve thought of Ystad as a destination of ferry crossing the Baltic See from Poland, I had no idea the town is so cute, maybe even too cute! But you made me intrigued by it, I need to figure out a trip there! (that shouldn’t be difficult with ferries :)) Thanks for this idea Shing!

  3. So idyllic, how can there be enough crime there to keep Wallander in a job? I love the fact he’s got access to a beach from his back garden, too.

    1. Haha so true… Have you watched The Bridge too? I thought the exact same think when I arrived in Malmo, I had painted a really depressing town full of grey but in reality it’s really vibrant and colourful!

  4. Those stones were re-erected during the last century, some had fallen over. The area was still used for crazing cattle until a few years ago, when the Ystad tourist board, realized it’s potential.
    The quaint quiet town of Ystad, has now no remaining houses that used to belong to the fishing community. These poorer families were moved away from the center, due to the smell of their industry. They were given an area outside of the town and flourished as a closed community, up until approx., 30 years ago. Some of our friends can boast of their ‘Revhusen’ heritage; a tough race of Swedes. Then the local politicians decided to claim their area for the expansion of the Ferry and Barbour development, so the last house was demolished maybe 2 years ago and the last occupant forced to move away. The area is still undeveloped.
    One note of interest for the sun loving tourist is that Ystad does have a very beautiful sandy beach that stretches 7 kilometers, towards Kåseberga. Luckily, this area is still unaffected by commercialism and the once playground of the rich is open to everyone to enjoy.

    1. Hi Dafydd, I’m pleased Ales Stenar’s potential was realised because it’s certainly unique and the landscape is the definition of gorgeous.

      It’s sad that a lot of the original buildings have been demolished, this happens all over the place too. We usually call this ‘gentrifying’ in the UK and it often divides between into two camps: those for it and those who are against it.

      The 7 kilometres of beach which you mentioned is beautiful, I’m so happy I got to experience a part of it completely free of crowds!

  5. Oh my gosh I miss Sweden. We lived in Taby, just outside Stockholm for 7 years and loved it. Visited Skane a few times and it was so beautiful. Falsterbo is so worth a visit if you ever get there …. really is the bottom of Sweden.

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