Oh Venice, what can I say that already hasn’t been said? Probably very little, so I’ll simply talk about what I enjoyed most about my trip.
Situated on a group of 118 small islands, separated by canals and beautiful bridges, Venice is not only a picture-perfect city, it also has the world’s most artistic masterpieces per square kilometre. Impressive, eh?
Inside the Guggenheim
I’m a sucker for a good art gallery and the Guggenheim is considered the crème de la crème. I’ve admired Peggy Guggenheim for a long time, so I was excited to see this museum because she invested so much of her time and money into making it what it is today – one of the most visited attractions in Venice and a beacon for modern artwork.
Although a relatively small space, the curation is faultless. It consists of several rooms including one dedicated especially to Jackson Pollock, and another for Surrealist artists like Salvador Dali and Max Ernst.
Some of you may already know that Peggy was married to Ernst for some time before eventually going their separate ways. It’s therefore no real surprise, but charming nonetheless to see a few photographs of Peggy with Ernst hanging on the walls of the museum.
Guggenheim Sculpture Garden
Attached to the museum is also a small but perfectly formed sculpture garden. You will find an array of sculptures by such artist as Giacometti, and one of England’s finest exports – Henry Moore.
I grew up in Yorkshire, so I’m always happy to see works by Henry Moore. I’m also always so impressed to see how his works have made it all around the world. He was an incredibly prolific artist.
Inside the Guggenheim’s sculpture garden with a figure from Marino Marini’s ‘Pomona’ series.
Marini is perhaps most well-known for his equestrian subjects, but he also created sculptures and paintings that focused on the human figure. His works often display a synthesis of classical and modernist elements. Born on February 27, 1901, in Pistoia, Tuscany, Italy, Marini’s artistic career spanned several decades, and he became one of the prominent figures in post-war Italian art.
Island hopping
Since Venice is made up of several islands, most of which are connected by bridges, you can walk almost everywhere by foot.
We were a bit pushed for time so we opted to get a boat across to Dorsoduro, the area of Venice where the Guggenheim is located. Sampling all modes of transport is a good way to get to know the city. We didn’t get a gondola because it was just a bit too pricey for us. Alas!
While in Dorsoduro we also visited Gallerie dell’Accademia which is an art museum that focuses on Venetian artists. Among the collection are paintings by Giovanni Bellini and Canaletto among many more.
Most famously, the museum is also home to da Vinci’s Vitruvian Man, however, due to its fragility and sensitivity to light, it is only showcased on rare occasions.
Making our way around the Cicchetti bars
Food and wine is synonymous with Italy, and Venice being no exception. Cicchetti bars in Venice are establishments that specialise in serving cicchetti, which are small, tapas-style dishes or snacks. The term “cicchetti” is the Venetian equivalent of the more widely known Spanish “tapas” or Italian “antipasti.” These small plates are typically enjoyed with a glass of wine.
Cicchetti bars line the alleyways of Venice. They have a way of looking extremely cinematic, especially at night when the warm glow of light beckons you in. There’s an abundance of them. Head inside and enjoy nibbles complemented with a wide variety of wine on the side. It’s where the locals like to go.
I recommend Cantina Vecia Carbonera, as there’s plenty of space to relax, rustic decor and most importantly, the snacks are delicious! In these cicchetti bars you can also get a glass of house wine for a steal at €1, and other wines costing more.
Otherwise, if you’re feeling plush, you could head over to Harry’s Bar. Here, Arrigo Cipriani reportedly invented the famous Bellini drink. Throughout its history the likes of Lord Byron and Truman Capote entered its doors. Though judging by its Tripadvisor reviews, the splendour it once captured seems to have been disappeared…
And of course, you simply can’t go to Italy without having pizza, can you?
As you can see from the photo, Venetian pizzas typically feature a very thin and crispy crust. The emphasis is often on simplicity and high-quality ingredients.
Why not try?
Given Venice’s proximity to the Adriatic Sea, seafood toppings are quite popular. You might find pizzas topped with fresh clams, mussels, shrimp, or other local seafood. The most famous place to grab one is at Rio Novo Ristorante Pizzeria.
Film reference: Can you spot the dwarf in the red cape?
Where to stay in Venice
Alex and I stayed at Hotel Saturnia & International Venezia which I’d recommend to anyone. It’s located just 5 minutes’ from St Marks’ square but since there are no cars in Venice it was very quiet at night.
You can walk to all the main tourist attractions by foot, and the canal is nearby if you need to get a water taxi or boat. The atmosphere is cosy, having been cultivated over 5 generations to ensure the long running of this lovely hotel.
