Recently, I’ve been making a concerted effort to explore more things on my doorstep in London. In my pursuit, I realise that I’ve been overlooking places that have been under my nose the whole time.
One of the lesser-known places that I think is worth sharing is Lesnes Abbey Woods in the suburbs of South East London. There are many green spaces in London and this one seems to be largely under the radar. You could call it one of London’s ‘best kept secrets’.
Typically, when I explore London from my home in Greenwich, I usually end up travelling north of the Thames. The big landmarks of Zone 1 are always enticing, and so are the vast array of independent shops and restaurants in East London.
My friend, Sarah, initially stumbled across it on Google Maps after looking for somewhere to go walking. After being in London for so long, we figured we knew all the major parks in London, but time and time again, we are reminded of how little we know about the city we call home. Curious, we decided to visit.
Getting to Lesnes Abbey Woods
After walking for approximately two hours from Greenwich, we arrived at the woods. I wouldn’t call the walk particularly scenic, so if you want to skip this part, you can hop on public transport.
There are direct trains to Lesnes Abbey Station from London Bridge, taking just 25 minutes, and from Greenwich, less than 20 minutes.
The Ruins of Lesnes Abbey
The first attraction we clocked were the ruins of Lesnes Abbey which the woodlands’ name derives from. To understand their origins we have to travel back far in time.
Richard de Luci built Lesnes Abbey in 1178. De Luci was the Chief Justiciar of England under Henry II. Reportedly, he founded the abbey to appease his conscience for his involvement in the murder of Thomas Becket eight years earlier. At the time of his assassination, Becket was the Archbishop of Canterbury and a central figure in one of medieval England’s most dramatic conflicts between the Church and the Crown.
As Justiciar, de Luci was instrumental in enforcing the Constitutions, aligning himself with the Crown’s interest in reducing ecclesiastical privilege and increasing state control. Although he was not directly implicated in Becket’s murder, his support for Henry’s policies contributed to the tense relationship between the Crown and the Church, which ultimately led to Becket’s death.
During the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the 1530s, Henry VIII closed Lesnes Abbey, along with many other religious establishments, and its buildings were abandoned.
Over time, the abbey fell into disrepair. The stones were gradually taken for use in local construction, leaving only the foundations and some remnants of walls that can still be seen today.
Opened to the public
In 1930 the London County Council bought the site and opened it to the public as a park, spanning nearly 88 acres of ancient woodland and planted forest.
Later, in 1986 control passed to the London Borough of Bexley. Today only the foundations of the ancient monument remain. You can see the remains of a brewhouse, kitchen, cellarer’s store, parlour, chapter house, porter undercroft and warming house. For the rest, you’ll have to use your imagination.
If you’re interested in seeing one of the best preserved monasteries in England, take a look at Fountains Abbey in North Yorkshire. It’s a beauty.
The Quirky Tree Carvings
Next up we ventured further into the woods and found a few surprises. Hidden among foliage and forest, we found a fabulous array of quirky tree sculptures. These sculpture did not churn up during my research before visiting so they were a total surprise. They were created by artist Tom Harvey who specialises in large-scale wood sculptures.
Once I had spotted one, I wanted to see more, so I made sure to keep my eyes peeled. My favourite was the Green Man, an ancient pagan icon of fertility. The detail of the craftsmanship is something quite extraordinary, and its funny facial features are enough to put a smile on anyone’s face old or young.
You can also find at least three other delightful carvings. They depict an owl and foxes, a monk, and lastly, ‘The Lady of the Woods’. If you discover more, well done. Your eyes are sharper than mine!
The sculptures really do add a touch of magic and enjoyment to the Lesnes park. This is especially true for kids. If you’re looking for family fun in London that’s free and imaginative, this place ticks the boxes.
The fossil pit
Back in the Eocene Epoch, about 54.5 million years ago, Southern England was in the Southern Hemisphere and just crossing the Equator. The land was formed of a large river estuary and the remains of aquatic life and other animals would settle out of the slowing water.
As a result, part of the woods are listed as a geological Site of Special Scientific Interest. In this section is the ‘Fossil Bed’, a small designated area where members of the public can dig for fossils. Cool, huh?
I saw a couple of children in the Fossil Bed intent on finding some fossils. Inspired, I tried finding some myself, but the kids seemed to be doing a better job than me. One kid proudly showed off his collection of shark teeth in the palm of his hand.
Clearly, I was no match for this determined child.
Elsewhere, you will find a small but pretty flower garden complete benches and some lovely sculptures that resemble beehives.
I recommend finishing up at the cafe for some tasty nibbles. Note the design that has been thoughtfully built to fit in with the natural landscape.
Parting thoughts
Lesnes Abbey Woods exceeded my expectations. I’m surprised it took me so long to find this place given its size and what it has to offer in terms of nature and medieval history. I will definitely be visiting again.
For more green spaces in the capital, take a look at this list of more parks in South London.
