The Art of Getting Lost in the Labyrinth of Mexico City

“Get lost.”

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again; getting lost is by far the most effective way of discovering a new city. This is particularly true in the sprawling capital of Mexico City.

Luckily for me, that’s not particularly difficult given my directional incompetence. That, coupled with my disdain for that smug Google Maps woman, who always seems to provide directions after I’ve clearly gone too far off route, means that I’m never short of a new adventure.

On this occasion, it was the result of a blazing row with my sister in the middle of the bustling Mercado de la Merced. Each of us too proud to apologise. So instead of making up, we ventured separately into the bustle. Unbeknown to her, I couldn’t have been happier. Finally, some alone time.

Mexico City had never been high on my list of places to visit. The clichéd combination of free roaming drug lords, gridlocked roads, smog galore and because I’ve never dealt so well with tequila, had kept me at bay. Having been born and bred in London, I am usually desperate to escape big city life.

So why Mexico City? My younger brother moved there last year, so I figured it was about time to check out this new city he calls home. As it turns out, Mexico City has way more to offer than I could ever have imagine. A few days in the belly of the beast has left me wandering when I can return to see more.

Visiting during Dia de los Muertos

I visited over the Dia de los Muertos period, otherwise known as The Day of the Dead. It’s a huge celebration all across Mexico where locals pay tribute to their dead ancestors.

Since 2008, the festival has been recognised by UNESCO as part of the ‘intangible cultural heritage of humanity’. This was more than evident walking through the city both day and night.

The streets are alive with freshly graffiti-ed skull murals covering derelict walls and shrines erected all over the city with flowers and edible treats to celebrate the lives of those passed. Mexico City is an overflowing cauldron of tricks and treats for all who visit.

Despite getting lost, I still managed to stumble across some expected attractions as well as lesser-known gems. Now I want to share my favourite finds with you:

Mercado de la Merced

Pablo Neruda wrote in his memoir, ‘Lo recorrí por años enteros, de mercado a mercado, porque México está en los mercados’ – I went from market to market for years, because Mexico is in its markets.

No truer words have been spoken. Market trading is a huge part of Mexican culture, dating back to pre-Hispanic times. With over 300 mercados (permanent markets) in Mexico city alone, and over a thousand tianguis (open air, mobile markets), they are the best way to immerse yourself in the daily lives, traditions and cultures of native Mexicans.

By far, my favourite was the wholesale market, Mercado de la Merced. It is divided into seven specific zones, each dedicated to a different type of product. You will find shop after shop selling exactly the same thing – luminous confectionary, stationery, crockery, hair products, fabric. And since it was the Día de los Muertos, there were rows of shops selling costumes and decorations in preparation.

This place is truly amazing. Though it’s beyond me how the vendors manage to make any money. Competition is stiff! No doubt excellent customer service and loyalty as opposed to product differentiation keeps them each in business. Regardless, this area is worth walking through if only to acclimatise yourself to the city’s vibrant nature.

Palacio de Bellas Artes

Nestled in the historical district of the city, the Palace of fine arts, also known as the “Cathedral of Art in Mexico” is one of the city’s focal points. A central meeting place for lovers and friends around the city, it was declared an artistic monument in 1987 by  UNESCO.

The Palace is a mix of art nouveau on the marble exterior, with the interior consisting of sculptures demonstrating “Harmony”, surrounded by “Pain”, “Rage”, “Happiness”, “Peace” and “Love”. Another section of the facade contains cherubs and sculptures representing music and inspiration.

What amazed me was how seamlessly the architecture and interior fitted together despite the different influences. Murals and art work inside from the likes of Rufino Tamayo, Diego Rivera, Clemente Orozco and Alfaro Siqueiros are a wonderful bonus. The building itself is spectacularly beautiful in its own right, even for philistines amongst us.

La Casa Agul (Museo Frida Kahlo)

It’s impossible to visit Mexico without having some Frida branded merchandise thrust in front of your face. Her life-long home in the Del Carmen area of the city, has now been turned into a museum.

Despite the lengthy queues to get in (I advise you beat them and book online), I can assure you it’s worth it. The rooms and the family’s possessions are incredibly well-preserved, and I really got a sense of the artist.

Home to some of her most famous works (A Few Small Nips ( Passionately in Love), my personal favourite, The two Fridas and Viva La Vida, Watermelons), La Casa Agul takes you on a journey through the stages of Frida’s life.

Through her childhood, her post-accident recovery years, her role in the Mexican Communist Party, her marriage to Diego and relationship with Leon Trotsky, right the way through to her death. Her paintings scattered throughout the house really take the visitor on Frida’s lifelong emotional and physical battles.

I opted for the audio tour. Usually I tend to avoid these when visiting most museums, but it was a wise investment, really helping to bring Frida’s story and other characters to life.

La Casa Agul is no doubt a must when in Mexico City, if only to better understand one of the most inspirational women of all time. I mean, who else can claim to have bedded a Marxist revolutionary and Mexican Muralist (not to mention a good few women) all in her spare time? What a force of nature!

Mexico City’s Neighbourhoods

The city is divided into neighbourhoods, each with their own distinct style. You could easily spend days exploring each one because the city seemingly sprawls out on what feels like forever. With so much to offer, it’s no surprise that Mexico City has established a growing ex-pat community.

First, I explored the bourgeois area of Condesa with its upscale shops and buzzing nightlife. Then I made my way to Zona Rosa, home to the city’s gay community. There’s also chic Polanco, which reminded me of villages in New York City and areas of Paris with its cosy eateries and coffee shops.

I also hopped over to spend some time roaming Coyoacán, a colonial township, housing many of the city’s galleries. This alone could take weeks to explore in full.

Mexico’s DIY Gaming Stations

If you’re a self-confessed gamer, you’ll love these DIY / make-shift gaming stations. You’ll spot them dotted all across Mexico City. I watched a few people playing, but didn’t have a dabble myself despite the offer. Anyway, I just found the whole set up incredibly appealing – a true slice of local life. They’re very basic but the community vibes are off the hook.

A little bit like walking inside a hole-in-the-wall, or peeling back the curtain and catching a glimpse into Mexican youth culture. Video games are very expensive to buy in Mexico and the internet is still not commonplace in every household so you can see how places like these sprout up.

These are nothing like your typical arcade. They just have the bare essentials. It’s like someone has converted their living room No peripheral enticements. Just pure gaming.

Chapultepec Park

Directly translating as ‘A Grasshopper Hill’, this 1,655 acre urban retreat rivals Bois de Boulogne in Paris or New York’s Central Park. The city’s workers particularly love to escape here for a well-earned break. It’s a little oasis among the urban sprawl.

There’s also a lot to keep you entertained with 10 museums, a zoo, paddle boats and a great space for runners. On the weekend, you’ll find a flurry of markets and street performers too. If you only go to one museum, make it the Museum of Anthropology. It’s home to the largest collection of ancient Mexican art. Fascinating stuff.

In addition, the flora and fauna cannot be overlooked. It’s beautiful. There are over 60 species of bird and trees dating back to the Aztec age. There’s truly something for everyone here, not to mention being cheap day out for adults and children alike. This space is embedded in the history and culture of the city.

The Verdict

Since my visit, ‘DF’ (as Mexico City is often termed by locals) has since made its way to the top of my ‘favourite cities’ list. It’s fought off stiff competition from its European peers, Budapest, St Petersburg and Porto in recent times. I only had only a few days there, but will definitely be going back next year as I round off my 6 month stint across South and Central America.

While I hope that you will find my list of things to see useful, I also encourage you to put away your map for a while. As I discovered, getting lost in Mexico City is no bad thing.

Further reading: Best Place to Eat in Mexico City

You might also like: Chichicastenango Cemetery in Guatemala: Colour, Symbolism & Rituals

About the author

Ruchi Malhotra lives and works in London. She can be found in far-flung corners of the world when she’s not sitting at her desk. Her appetite for travel recently encouraged her to ask her boss for a 6-month sabbatical. Luckily the answer was yes, so she’ll be grabbing her backpack and heading to South America after Christmas. I’m sure we’ll hear more from Ruchi again…