I’m not exaggerating when I say that spring in Cyprus feels like summer. It really does. If you’re anything like me, you probably can’t wait to hit the trails after what feels like an eternity of hibernation during winter.
Across most of Europe, the official hiking season doesn’t usually begin until the end of May. However, from March – and sometimes even earlier – temperatures begin to climb in Cyprus. If you’re craving a vitamin D boost, you’ll find it here. Temperatures hover around 20-degrees accompanied by 12 hours of daylight.
Cyprus has 73 official hiking routes. With so many, which should you choose? Well, if you only do one, make it the Aphrodite Nature Trail. Yes, everything on this island is soaked in myth, sun, and a little bit of wine-soaked storytelling. The hike is just as enchanting as its name itself, you’ll see.
Even if you wouldn’t usually call yourself a hiker, any holiday to Cyprus will be enhanced by including this trail into your itinerary. By the time you have finished reading this post, hopefully I will have persuaded you to pack a pair of hiking boots along with your sandals. Actually, anything with a decent grip will do. I wore hiking sandals and they served me just fine.
Trail details: facts & figures
Distance: 7.6 kilometers circular route
Duration: 3 hours
Difficulty: Although it doesn’t reach a high elevation, I’d label it moderate due to the rocky terrain. If you’re a season hiker, you should find it pretty easy.
Elevation: 392 metres (1,283 feet)
Starting point: The Baths of Aphrodite Restaurant
Closest town: Neo Chorio, Paphos
When: All seasons apart from summer when it will be too hot.
Aphrodite Nature Trail:
Where paths merge with mythology
Baths of Aphrodite
I could tell this was going to be one heck of a scenic hike as soon as we left Paphos and drove through the rugged backcountry of Cyprus’ wild Akamas Peninsula. We pulled up at the car park next to the Baths of Aphrodite Restaurant and took the opportunity to use the bathroom facilities.
Next to the bathroom was a viewing platform overlooking the dreamy blue sea. If we had turned back without doing the hike, the trip getting there would already have been worth it. Notable were striking rock formations protruding from the sea, evidence of volcanic activity from bygone era.
It wasn’t long before we reached the Bath of Aphrodite. According to legend, the pool was Aphrodite’s place of retreat, her hideout. Maybe even her hookup spot – possibly where she met Adonis so I’ve heard.
Who was Aphrodite?
I’m sure most of you reading this probably know a thing or two about this Grecian gal, but just in case, Aphrodite was the daughter of Zeus, god of the sky and ruler of the Greek pantheon of gods. Naturally, Aphrodite became the Greek goddess of love, beauty and desire, but don’t be fooled, she wasn’t all hearts and harp music.
Our guide made a joke that she had lovers stacked like firewood – Ares, Adonis, and anyone else who took her fancy. Wherever she went, people either worshipped her, feared her, or both. Needless to say, she was quite the femme fatale.
It’s said that Aphrodite rose from the sea foam just off the coast of Cyprus. If you believe the myths (or just enjoy a good story), the Aphrodite Nature Trail is where the goddess walked, bathed, and seduced gods and mortals alike. The mythological link adds to the atmosphere of the hike almost as much as the nature itself.
Wild flora & ancient archeological ruins
The path itself doesn’t coddle you. It’s rocky and climbs quite fast, twisting through low scrub, gnarled juniper, wild thyme and carob trees. Lizards scuttled and darted across the path. Meanwhile, be sure to turn around to see the view of Chrysochou Bay before heading inland for a while.
At this time of the year, the most beautiful flowers spring up along the trail. Drifting through the wild air was the fragrance of a Cypriot kitchen just before dinner – all the staple ingredients of Cypriot cuisine grown on the land.
The next notable landmark was a huge oak tree, clearly withered by time yet still standing strong. There was a sign at the trail entrance that said Aphrodite enjoyed resting underneath it. This made me chuckle because the dates are clearly wrong if that’s the case. I mean, it looks old, but I can’t imagine it has been there for 3000 years. Or has it?
Shortly after, we came across the ruins of a 12th century medieval monastery that goes by the name of Tower of Regina. Before GPS and guidebooks, this was pilgrimage country. There’s little information about the monastery, such as which saint it might have been attributed to, but it’s still always cool to see relics like this surviving, and better still, half-buried in nature.
Summit of Moutti tis Sotiras
It wasn’t long before the trail opened up to the summit of Moutti tis Sotiras. The gods rewarded us with a panorama of endless blue sea, and just enough breeze to make the sweat of our efforts completely disappear.
It’s here where Aphrodite supposedly emerged from the waves, fully formed, like the famous Botticelli painting.
The descent
If you’ve made enough room in your rucksack for a picnic, this is the spot to indulge. After taking far too many photos, and basking in the sweeping views, we made our descent at a steady downhill zigzag motion. The landscape was equally as beautiful hiking alongside the coast for almost all of it.
We stopped briefly at a solitary bench. No sign. No explanation. Just a wooden seat for anyone to perch, breathe, while away time, and soak up the silence. At this time of year, there was hardly anyone on the trail. You’re more likely to spot goats as we did. I gave them a friendly wave, as though to apologise for trespassing on their land.
Eventually, we circled back to the start – dusty, salty, a little tired, yet feeling energised from the release of all those feel-good endorphins.
Final thoughts
The Aphrodite Nature Trail isn’t just a nature walk. It’s a thread to the country’s history. A way of walking through myth, landscape, and the kind of silence that makes you pay attention. The trail doesn’t care about your schedule. There are no cafés, no souvenir shops, just rocks, sun, and the occasional goat watching you as though saying ‘move along, dear’.
By the time you loop back down – sweaty, sun-soaked, and possibly a little stiff in the calves – you’ve earned that cold beer. Maybe some grilled halloumi. Some fresh fish. Maybe a glass of something stronger.
Whether you’re an experienced hiker or a beginner, this trail is sure to provide a memorable experience through mythological landscapes. I can see why Aphrodite was drawn to this place. Everywhere you look, the views are vast and open up to the seemingly endless sea.
Few places are there in Europe where you can go hiking in March and feel the sun beaming down on your face. Just make sure you pack a good supply of water and sun tan lotion, and you’re ready to go!
→ If you’re looking for guided hikes in Cyprus, Panico from Cyfari, has a range of wonderful tours.
