El Retiro Park – Madrid’s Most Beautiful Park

An urban oasis in the heart of Madrid

When I visit a city for the first time, I always try to visit at least one park or green space. Over the years, I’ve generally found that the greener the city, the more I usually like it and find myself returning.

On my recent trip to Madrid, I visited El Retiro Park and it was one of the highlights of my trip. I think it’s one of the most beautiful parks in Spain, maybe even across the whole of Europe. 

If you’re heading to Spain’s capital city, El Retiro Park is not to be missed. Seriously.

Brief history of El Retiro Park

El Retiro Park, known as Parque del Buen Retiro in Spanish, translates to the ‘Park of Pleasant Retreat’. In all ways it lives up to its name too. For a city as dynamic as Madrid, it certainly offers a lovely respite. 

Historically, it dates back to the 17th century when it was originally established as a royal garden for King Philip IV of Spain.

In 1632, the monarch commissioned the construction of a palace, the Palacio del Buen Retiro, and the surrounding gardens, which would later become El Retiro Park. The park was initially reserved for the exclusive use of the royal family and their court, serving as a place of leisure, recreation, and entertainment.

Throughout the following centuries, the park underwent various transformations under different Spanish monarchs. During the reign of Charles III in the 18th century, El Retiro Park was redesigned in the neoclassical style, adding new elements such as fountains, pavilions, and monuments. The park’s famous main pond, the Estanque Grande del Retiro, was also created during this period.

In the 19th century, after the Napoleonic invasion of Spain, the park was finally opened to the public. Today it is beloved by locals and visitors alike. 

Exploring inside El Retiro Park

El Retiro Park can perhaps best be described as an urban oasis in the heart of Madrid. It covers an area of approximately 125 hectares so it never feels crowded. To put this size into perspective, it equates to almost 200 football pitches. Like I said, there’s enough space for everyone.

The park features a variety of attractions, including lush gardens, historic monuments, beautiful sculptures, serene ponds, and shaded walkways. It has everything you could wish for in a city park and more.

The layout and design has been influenced by various artistic styles, including French and English landscape design. Some parts are preened and pruned, while other areas are more wild.

I loved how some people, particularly from an older generation, dressed up to go to the park. I spotted an elderly couple who looked fabulously glamorous, like they were straight out from a 1950s Hollywood film. True style is ageless as they say.

While others were simply dressed in their sweats and t-shirts while they went jogging or cycling. Needless to say, the park is a great place for people watching too.

There’s loads to do here, whether you want to stroll among tree-lined paths, row a boat, attend a concert, or simply enjoy a peaceful moment amid nature.

My wow moment came after clapping eyes on the topiary. The bushes were preened and pruned to sculptural perfection. My deepest admiration go to the gardeners who are true artists. The garden looked like a work of art.

So with its beautiful sculptures, monuments, galleries, idyllic lake and sublime topiary, El Retiro Park is so much more than just a park.

It’s also free to enter, making it the perfect spot for families to come and play. Just make sure you pack a picnic and sunscreen!

Nearby accommodation

If you’re planning a trip to Madrid and would love to be situated close to the park, there are lots of options depending on your tastes and budget.

From chic design hotels with rooftop pools like Hotel Urban to friendly and affordable dorms at Room007 Gran Vía Hostel. Enjoy!

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