Shkoder is often referred to as the gateway to the Albanian Alps. As a result, I figured it would just be a stopping point to get to where I really wanted to be: the mountains.
I showed up expecting a sleepy border town but discovered it is so much more than just a convenient place to stop. The city is teeming with life and history and home to some of the best countryside views straight from the city itself.
Introduction to Shkoder
To understand the importance of Shkoder we need to go back in time. One of the oldest cities in Albania, it’s been around since the Illyrians carved out a kingdom here in the 4th century BCE. Later came the Romans, then the Byzantines, Venetians, Ottomans. The borders changed, the flags changed, the people stayed. You can feel all of it – the weight of time – from the ruined castle to the cobbled streets and from the historical museums to the city’s religious diversity.
Shkodër doesn’t reveal itself immediately. There’s no grand first impression, it doesn’t wear glossy makeup. It’s a little worn at the edges, a little bruised by history, but the more you look around, the more it surprises you. It’s all in the details and that’s where the charm lies.
My best advice to you is simply to walk around – day and night. Hit up the main attractions during the day and soak up the lively atmosphere at night. You’ll notice the shift in energy – the bars come alive and the locals like to stay up late to socialise.
Here’s my guide to the best places to go and things to do in Shkoder:
1. See the city from above at Rozafa Castle
You hike up Rozafa not for the cardio, but for the view – and the myth. The fortress predates most modern nations, perched high where three rivers collide. The castle is named after a woman who was walled up here alive, they say, to keep the place standing. Brutal? Yes. But somehow this seems fitting for Albania, a country whose strength has been carved out of sacrifice.
On a clear day the views are utterly breathtaking. From the top: Lake Shkoder rolls out to Montenegro, the Albanian Alps cut the sky open, and below, the city sprawls out in picturesque form.
There’s much more to the history and legend of this castle, so take a read of my dedicated post → Roafa Castle: The Legend of Rozafa Castle in Shkoder.
Entrance fee: 400 lek (approximately £3)
Opening times: During summer the castle is opened from 9am – 8.30pm and during off-peak seasons it is generally opened from 8am – 4pm
2. Visit the Site of Witness and Memory
This museum punches you in the gut. It serves to commemorates the victims of the communist regime in Shkodër. It’s stark and horrifying but incredibly thoughtful and poignant.
Set inside a former priest’s residence turned communist prison, it tells the story of persecution, torture, and silence. Photos of the disappeared. Letters from jail. Torture rooms left as they were. It’s not easy, but it matters. If you only visit one museum in Shkoder, make it this one – understanding this part of history makes you realise how far Shkoder and the country has come since the arrival of democracy in 1991.
Entrance fee: 200 lek (approximately £1.50)
Opening times: Weekdays opened from 8.30am until 2.30pm. Saturday from 9.30am until 12.30pm. Closed on Sundays
Address: Bulevardi Skënderbeu, Shkoder, Albania
3. Get lost in the old streets
The heart of Shkoder is made for wandering. The Old Town, especially around Rruga Kolë Idromeno (the main pedestrian street) throws up some interesting sights: Catholic churches sitting in harmony with mosques, pastel facades faded by time, several statues including one of Mother Teresa, small museums and artisan shops.
You’ll also spot plenty of cyclists and bicycles. Interestingly, until 1991, private car ownership was illegal in Albania due to communist rule. Even after the legalisation of owning private cars, the city maintained a culture of cycling and enjoying car-free public spaces which contributes to the relaxing vibe of the city.
Be sure to wander down the side streets too – I’m a fan of Pruga Gjuhadol – you’ll find street art, cracked walls, and plenty of cafes. Service is friendly and the coffee is strong – just how I like it!
4. Lake Shkodra: where time slows down
Lake Shkodra is big. Really big. It is the largest lake in the Balkans. The lake stretches about 44 kilometres in length and up to 14 kilometres in width. It lies on the border between Albania and Montenegro, with roughly two-thirds of its area in Montenegro and the remaining third in Albania.
Make your way to the panorama in the small town of Shiroka – I recommend doing so after visiting Rozafa Castle as the access to reach there is quicker than from the centre of town. It’s super relaxing and a great place for a picnic. I pottered around that area until golden hour but you’ll also find food options if you’re tempted to eat by the lake.
If I had had more time, I would have loved to explore the waters by boat or kayak. You’ll find multiple tours ranging from the leisurely to the adventurous. Take a look at the Kayak tours via local company Drini Times.
5. Head over to Mesi Bridge
Another scenic spot, Mesi Bridge is just 15 minutes out of town by car or 25 minutes by bike, and yet feels like a million miles away from any city. No, it’s not named after the famous footballer, built in the 18th century by the Ottomans, the stone bridge arches gracefully over the Kir River with endless views of nature.
The best time to visit Mesi Bridge is in the spring or autumn when the river flows at peak volume and you can take a refreshing dip in the water. Though the Ottoman architecture and setting is so pretty it’s worth the trip out any time of the year.
6. Visit the Marubi National Museum of Photography
Want to understand a place? Look at its faces. The Marubi family were early Albanian photographers, well ahead of their time, setting up the first photography studio in Albania in 1856 right here in Shkodër. Their work is raw, intimate, and full of humanity. Black-and-white portraits of locals – bakers, farmers, poets, activists – people who lived through decades of change with dignity and grit.
The museum is small, but modern and extremely well-curated. I found myself looking for a long time at the series of portraits of the people who went on trial during communism. Context it key, and knowing that many of them were executed adds a strong emotional depth to each photograph – it’s a way of keeping the memory of these people alive. The stories behind the portraits stay with you long after you have visited.
Entrance fee: 1000 Lek
Opening times: Everyday from 9am until 7pm
Address: Rruga Kolë Idromeno, No. 32, 4001 Shkoder, Albania
7. Enjoy Shkoder’s nightlife
You might not expect it for a relatively small city, but Shkoder comes alive at night. Even families with kids head out together to enjoy the atmosphere of the main pedestrian streets. People stroll. Ice cream is scooped. Grandmothers gossip over espresso. It’s peaceful while still being lively. Restaurants and watering holes stay open until late so you need not worry about things closing early if you’re in the mood for a drink or two or more, particularly on the weekend.
Lots of the coffee shops transform into bars at night. The lights turn low, libations flow and music sets the vibe. One of these places is Shega e Eger (address: Rr. Gjuhadol, Shkodër, Albania, 4001) – they serve up delicious fruit drinks in the day and at night the focus shifts to craft beer and cocktails.
A cool thing I noticed about Albanians is that they seem to speak rather quietly in public. It’s seems like a small thing, but it makes a difference when you’re trying to enjoying the atmosphere of a place. In the UK, people tend to get very loud and lairy once they’ve had a drink, but in Albania volume levels are respectfully dialled down a notch.
All in all, most beverage rooms are independent so you’ll find they vary in personality and decor. I recommend wandering into whichever bar appeals to you from the outside. Take a peek and sit down in the one that looks the most inviting to you. If you’re having a date night and looking for somewhere a bit fancy, make a beeline for Nur.
8. Venture up to the Albanian Alps
After spending time in Shkoder, I highly encourage nature and hiking enthusiasts to venture up to the Albanian Alps aka “The Accursed Mountains”. The region used to be difficult to reach without a 4×4 vehicle. The road wasn’t smooth and pot holes were everywhere. However, a new road was completed two years ago connecting Shkoder to the mountain village of Theth within just a 2 hour drive.
Some people just visit Theth as a day trip from Shkoder, but I really recommend staying longer. I spent three nights there but I could have spent a week just hiking and basking in the nature. Trails cut deep into dramatic limestone ranges and jagged peaks dominate the skyline.
Recommended: The most iconic route, the Valbona to Theth hike, is a 10 to 12-kilometre pass that climbs through pine forests, alpine meadows, and stony ridges that look like the bones of the earth. There’s also the hike to the Blue Eye Theth and Grunas Waterfall which is a super pretty hike that covers approximately 18-km of stunning scenery.
9. Explore Shkoder’s food & coffee culture
I wasn’t sure what to expect with Albanian food but it turns out it’s pretty good! Hearty and comforting with an emphasis on good quality ingredients. If I had to draw similarities, I think it resembles Greek cuisine the most. Think grilled meats, fresh herbs, tangy yogurt sauces, olive oil, and feta-like cheeses.
Arti’Zanave for traditional cuisine
If you’re looking to try traditional Albanian dishes I recommend Arti’Zanave in Shkoder. First of all, it’s more than just a restaurant. It’s a social enterprise where profits from every meal support helping women and children affected by gender-based violence. Mix this inspiring mission with the fact that the food is delicious and the space cosy and inviting, and you have yourself a place extra deserving of a visit.
Address: Rruga Berdicej 4001, Shkodër, Albania
Pasta te Zenga for pasta the Italian way
Ok, hear me out. I know pasta is synonymous with Italian cuisine, but I had some of the best pasta in my life at Pasta te Zenga in Shkoder. What’s the deal? Well, due to its proximity to Italy, pasta is extremely popular in northern Albania and Albanian chefs have perfected the art of making it in various forms.
However many dishes you order, make sure one of them is the ravioli – they’re stuffed with with a variety of fillings and the truffle and beetroot fillings are delish.
Address: Rruga 28 Nëntori, Shkodër 4001, Albania
Kanelle for coffee and dessert
When you need a caffeine fix or your sweet tooth is demanding a cake or two, head over to Kanelle. They have a selection of homemade cakes and strong coffee to boot. The staff was really nice and when I asked them for their recommendations, they pointed over to an orange sponge cake (otherwise know as a Albanian Revani) which was super scrumptious.
Address: Bulevardi Skënderbeu, Shkodër 4001, Albania
Eko Club for relaxing
Lastly, if you’re looking for somewhere that serves up lovely organic dishes with a great atmosphere from the get go, make your way to Eko Club. Inside you will find lots of comfy spots to make you feel at home. The decor is complete with scattered books, cushions and wall murals reflecting Albanian heritage. It’s spacious enough that you can also work from here remotely if you’re searching for such a place.
Address: Rruga Besnik Sykja, Shkodër, Albania
10. Joined a guided tour from Shkoder
While I didn’t join a guided tour myself, the day trip tour to Komani Lake and Shala River would have been the one for me if I had more time on my side. It’s a whole day immersed in natural beauty. Shame to miss these sites, but on the upside I have a reason to return, eh?
It’s hard to believe that you can fit this into one day, but you can actually head across the border to Montenegro. This tour of Budva Old Town and Kotor Old Town has excellent reviews. It’ll be a long day but a memorable one!
How to get to Shkoder
Mini van from Airport: I arrived in Tirana Airport and hopped straight on a Hermes minivan to Shkoder at the airport. I didn’t need to book in advance, I just paid the driver. Very simple. It was 1000 lek (approx £9 or $11) and the journey took around 1h 45 min. There isn’t really a set time of departure, they just set off when the van is full. If I remember correctly, I think they have a max capacity of around 10 people so you never need to wait too long.
Bus from Tirana: If you’re starting from Tirana city centre, there are many buses that depart per day from the North & South bus station. They are slightly cheaper too at around 500 lek.
By Taxi: If you want to get there as quickly as possible without waiting around, you can hop in a taxi. From Tirana is will likely cost between $70 – $80. It might also be helpful to know that along with the local currency, almost everyone accepts US dollar.
So there you go, I hope you have found this guide to Shkoder useful and you enjoy exploring the city as much as I did. If you’re planning a trip to Shkoder and have any questions, feel free to leave a comment and I will try and get back to you as soon as possible.
