Marseille doesn’t seduce you with pretty boulevards, elegant facades or fancy shops. To fully appreciate it you first have to give it a chance. Compared to other famous cities in France, Marseille is louder, messier, a bit more rough around the edges.
It probably won’t endear itself to you straight away, but keep wandering around with an open mind and slowly, surely, it will start to reveal itself in fun and interesting ways. After all, is it France’s oldest city.
I know the word real gets thrown around more times than a tennis ball at Wimbledon these days, but that’s the word I’d use to describe Marseille. It doesn’t pretend to be anything other than itself: local people, local vibes.
The centre can be found at the Old Port, not a typical main square like most big European cities. And from the port, it sprawls outward like an octopus unfurling its long tentacles seemingly in all directions.
To fully enjoy yourself in Marseille, it’s important to know where to go. Each area is its own neighbourhood with a distinct personality. It’s not a neat little city so I’ve put together some of the places I enjoyed the most. There are also some incredible day trips within a short distance from the city.
Best things to do in Marseille
The Old Port
The Vieux-Port is Marseille’s beating heart. Raw, real, and never stops moving. It’s been that way since the Greeks sailed in 2,600 years ago and dropped anchor in this natural harbour. Everything starts here. You could call it Marseille’s front door. Empires, trade, wars, and stories – all filtered through this rectangular body of water dotted with masts, fishing nets and pricey boats.
Early in the morning you’ll find the outdoor market underway and in the evening people swarm to relax at the surrounding restaurants. I’d probably avoid them though unless you’re just stopping for some coffee or drinks. The pricers are higher but it might not be reflected in the quality. Just come to soak up the atmosphere. You might catch some talented street performers and musicians. Kids kicking a ball around with the dream of becoming the next Zidane and taking the country to World Cup victory. (The famed footballer hails from Marseille).
In the warmer months, you also have the option to embark on a variety of boat trips typically departing from the port to nearby islands and coastal explorations.
Le Panier
Climb away from the port and you find yourself in Le Panier, Marseille’s oldest neighbourhood. If you’re looking for charm and photographic appeal, this area has it in bundles. It’s all steep staircases, laundry flapping from balconies, and pastel shutters peeling under the sun. Historically, this was the immigrant quarter – Italians, Corsicans, Armenians, and later North Africans. It’s diverse with an energy of creativity bouncing off the walls and that’s why I like it.
Walk the narrow lanes and you’ll find street art alongside baroque churches, hip cafés tucked into crumbling facades, and that feeling that life here is lived out in the open. It’s a popular place to have dinner, and with most restaurants being just the size of your average living room, I advise arriving early to keep the hunger monster at bay.
Palais Longchamp & Park
Looking for the most beautiful monument in Marseille? That award goes to the Palais Longchamp. You come around the bend and suddenly there it is – a 19th-century water temple that looks like some Roman monument smashed together with a Baroque opera set.
Built to celebrate the arrival of fresh water to the city from the Durance River in 1869, it’s only fitting that a monumental fountain sits in the middle with stone nymphs, roaring lions, and galloping horses. The whole thing is dripping in drama, marble and grandeur, a theatrical thank-you note to the gods of plumbing.
Behind it, you’ve got the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Natural History Museum tucked into its wings, like afterthoughts hidden in a palace. But the real thrill is outside – standing on the steps at sunset, when the sky turns bruised orange and pink, and Marseille sprawls below you. It’s bombastic, a little absurd, and exactly why you’ll remember it.
Cité Radieuse
My favourite landmark in Marseille? The prize has to go to Le Corbusier’s Cité Radieuse, the 1950s concrete utopia that looks like a Soviet battleship dropped in the south of France. Inside: apartments, a rooftop terrace, gallery and even shops.
It’s a piece of architectural history that makes you think about how humans try to build perfect societies. After visiting Chandigarh in India, a town design by Le Corbusier, this place was at the top of my to-do-list and it exceeded my expectation. Where Chandigarh falls somewhat short and fails to incorporate the social tapestry of India, Cité Radieuse feels much more complete. I know Le Corbusier is a somewhat divisive architect, and not all of his work can be considered a success, but this one is in my opinion.
The architecture is truly inspiring and visionary. It’s all in the details. There’s no space created without thought. If you have the faintest interesting in design, no trip to Marseille is complete without taking a tour of Corbusier’s complex. You must check availability and book tickets in advance. Please remember, people still live here so it’s important to be respectful.
The Basilica on the hill
Towering over everything is Notre-Dame de la Garde, the basilica with its massive golden Madonna keeping watch over sailors and sinners alike. Locals call her la Bonne Mère – the Good Mother. She’s the city’s protector, its unofficial mascot.
It would take you quite a while to walk there, so I suggest saving time by catching an Uber there and walking back into town along the seafront promenade. The view from the top highlights the sprawl of Marseille, the jagged limestone Calanques in the distance, and the sea stretching endlessly beyond.
Nightlife at Cours Julien
Looking for cheeky drinks over the weekend? Cours Julien is the hipster area of Marseille. Loads of street art, hang-out areas and local restaurants. It’s fun, lively, and filled with people catching up with friends, enjoying a date, or heading to where the music doesn’t stop until late.
In the main square the outdoor seating area can get very crowded, particularly on a warm, balmy evening. If you like Le Panier through the day, there’s high chance you’ll like the energy of Cours Julien at night. Whether you’re after cocktails, beers, or just want to soak up the atmosphere of Marseille’s liveliest neighbourhood once the night begins, this is the place for it.
Food: where and what to eat in Marseille
Marseille is about food that smells of the sea and stings with garlic. The obvious dish is bouillabaisse which is traditionally a fisherman’s stew, born from the scraps of unsellable fish, flavoured with saffron and fennel, served with a side of garlicky rouille and croutons. It was considered a poor man’s dish, but alas, not anymore.
Nowadays, it’s made with fresh fish and can cost up to €80. I wasn’t prepared to spend that so I found a takeaway place called Bouillabaisse Turfu that’s serves up spoonfuls of the soupy fish for €15. It was super tasty and healthy. However, it doesn’t include specific fish like rascasse (scorpion fish) for it to be considered ‘true’ or ‘traditional’ bouillabaisse hence the accessible price. Such an omission didn’t bother me. Good food is good food!
Do you live for food? France is all about gastronomic delights and Marseille is no exception. If you want to experience the city through your taste buds, take a look at the available food tours in Marseille.
Now onto my favourite restaurants…
La Ola
Think small plates, local ingredients, and creative combinations and you have La Ola. Adding to the reason to go is the intimate setting and friendly service in the hipster neighbourhood of Cours Julien.
The restaurant has a pretty interesting concept. Each month they bring in a new and experienced residency chef. This keeps the menu inspired, invigorating and interesting. The service strikes the perfect balance of being both attentive and relaxed. It’s affordable – not too cheap and not too expensive either. The interior has a wonderful shabby chic aesthetic – rustic walls, handmade ceramics, wooden tables and candles. Great for any occasion.
Toma Restaurant
I was super impressed with this place from the start. The atmosphere is light, airy and elegant. Again, this is another venue that serves up sharing plates. Every dish was polished and packed with flavour and presented beautifully. Even a relatively simple dish seemed to have its own complexity, but this all could just boil down to the top quality ingredients that’s cooked-to-perfection. Toma Restaurant is one of those places that should be more expensive than it actually it is – I love those kind of places.
Maison Calambo
This local joint is one of those places that feels like it’s been in the family for generations and I suspect it has judging by the old photos on the walls. It’s not polished or fancy – so if you’re looking for something more refined, this place might not be for you. However, they know about seafood.
Whatever you want you can get here: oysters, sea urchin, sea snails, prawns, clams and all kinds of fish. I recommend the seafood platter. The seafood linguine with a slice of crusty bread to mop up the sauce is also a yummy option. They open from 9am to 4pm, but the kitchen closed around 3pm when I was there so arrive early for lunch to avoid disappointment.
Good to know: Unlike the UK, most restaurants in France close their kitchens at around 2pm – 3pm after lunch before reopening again for the evening. If you tend to eat lunch a little later, you’ll have to fill up you belly a little earlier that unusual.
Day trips from Marseille
The Calanques: where mountains meet the sea
Want to go hiking? Head to the Calanques. There are several starting points but Cassis is the most popular entry point. After a short hike along well-marketed paths you are greeted by limestone peaks overlooking a shimmering waters so blue it looks photoshopped. It’s the kind of place that makes you forget you’re just outside a big city.
If you’re looking to get your heart-beat going you could also climb Mont Puget, the highest peak within the Calanques Masstif. It’s not difficult, but not a walk in the park either. From the Luminy campus trailhead it takes around 4hr there and back. The views are stunning from the top. Depending on your pick-up and drop-off locations, Ubers to the Calanque can range from 20 – 40 Euros. If you can divide the price by two or more people, it’s the easiest and fastest way to get there.
Aix-en-Provence
Aix-en-Provence feels like the France you dream about when you’re stuck at home scrolling travel feeds. It’s a city of fountains that sprout from shaded squares, streets lined with ochre-coloured townhouses, and markets spilling over with lavender, olives, and the scent of fresh bread.
Once the capital of Provence, Aix carries itself with an old-world elegance. It’s lived-in, vibrant, and beyond charming. If you’re an art lover, Aix is Cézanne’s city. You can visit his old studio preserved as if he’s only just popped out for a brief moment and will be back any time soon. Murals, art equipments brushes and fruit models still scattered across the tables. However, it’s currently under renovation so I advise you to check online for up-to-date information and opening times. Admission fee: 9.50€ adults, 7.50€ children.
Tip: Try and time your visit when the flower market takes over Town Hall Plaza on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday morning.
Aix is incredibly easy to reach, either 30-minute ride by car or Uber, or forty minutes by train from Marseille St Charles Train Station.
Final thoughts on Marseille
Here’s the thing about Marseille: it doesn’t care if you like it. This is a city of immigrants, of fishermen, artists and anarchists, a place where France meets Africa and the Mediterranean shakes hands with the world. It’s a bit all over the place and often misunderstood. But it’s also vibrant, defiant, and real in a way that it’ll never be described as ‘too touristy’.
You don’t visit Marseille to tick off postcard sights. You come here to feel a city that’s alive, imperfect, and unrepentant. And when you do want to escape to nearby postcard backdrops, the optional are almost endless.
