If you like books and literature, there is a strong chance that you might have already heard of Pondicherry. If you have watched the film or read the book, Life of Pi, you will recognise Pondicherry as the protagonist’s birthplace.
On my first day in India, I was approached by a woman asking for directions. I’m not sure if I was particularly helpful since I was also new in town, but we struck up a conversation. She was travelling from China and explained that Life of Pi was her favourite book and it had inspired her to visit India.
This made me smile. There are many reasons to travel: to escape to somewhere warm; to experience different cultures; to feel connected to something we love like a certain book or film. The list is long.
I like to call these latter places literary landscapes – the places we visit to follow in the footsteps of our favourite characters and authors.
I’ve no doubt she isn’t the first or last person to visit Pondicherry for this reason. But what else should you know about Pondicherry other than its literary connection to the Life of Pi? Let’s find out…
Here’s my guide to Pondicherry that includes some historical information as well as the best things to do in the city and beyond.
A brief history of Pondicherry
Pondicherry is a pituresque coastal city located in Tamil Nadu, southeastern India. The history of the city is rich, complex and varied, shaped by multiple influences over the centuries.
In a nutshell, the French East India Company established a trading post in Pondicherry in the 17th century in order to gain control over lucrative trades. This marked the beginning of French colonial rule in the region.
The British briefly occupied Pondicherry in the mid-18th century, but it was later returned to French control through the Treaty of Paris in 1763. It was a complicated time that produced cultural clashes and power struggles. However, for want of a better word, Pondicherry prospered as a French colonial town until India gained independence in 1947. Since then, Pondicherry has retained its unique blend of French and Indian culture.
This diverse cultural heritage mixed with its laid-back atmosphere makes Pondicherry a popular place to visit for both Indians and foreigners looking for a relaxing escape.
1. Sightseeing stroll along the seaside promenade
Soak up the relaxing vibe of Pondicherry along the 1.5km seaside promenade. Enjoy the beach on one side, and French colonial architecture on the other. It’s a no-car zone so you can bask in the sound of the water lapping the shore while admiring views across the Bay of Bengal. India can often feel hectic, but not here!
As you walk along the promenade you will spot some interesting sculptures and structures. Look out for the statue of India’s first prime minister Jawaharlal Nehru. There’s also a particular striking statue of Gandhi, an old lighthouse, and the French War Memorial.
2. Watch the sunrise or sunset at Rock Beach
Rock beach, which can be accessed from the promenade, is regarded as one of the most attractive sight-seeing places in Pondicherry.
I recommend going in the early morning for sunrise or the early evening when the heat of the day has subsided and where you can watch the sunset. There are lots of nearby restaurants so you can spend the rest of your evening enjoying fabulous food along with a scenic view.
Fancy a dessert? Sitting on the beach with a dessert in hand is one of life’s pleasures. For the perfect treat head to nearby bakery Baker Street which specialises in French desserts.
3. Immaculate Conception Cathedral
The Immaculate Conception Cathedral is a stunning building. The beautifully constructed interior and exterior designs make it worth visiting.
The cathedral has a very tumultuous history. It was erected the 1692 with the financial help of Louis XIV, king of France but was demolished by the Dutch the following year. Wasting little time, it was quickly rebuilt in 1699, but that one did not last very long either. After it was rebuilt for the third time in 1736 it was brought to the ground AGAIN by the British in 1761 during the Seven Years’ War.
Thankfully, the version you see today has been standing since 1791.
4. Sri Aurobindo Ashram
Into yoga and meditation? This ashram is a prime destination in Pondicherry for those who seek spiritual peace based on the teachings of Sri Aurobindo and Mira Alfassa also known as Mother.
During a visit you can mediate and enjoy the power of silence. There is a library and a store inside selling books, photographs and post cards. Similar to most ashrams, it is well decorated with colourful flowers that provide a beautiful fragrance along with incense.
5. Experience tranquility at Auroville
Perhaps the most famous attraction of this area is Auroville. Only 12 km from Pondicherry, it is a professed ‘utopia’ hosting people from over 55 countries. It was formed in 1968 by Mira Alfassa with an aim of attaining harmony and human unity through the teachings of Sri Aurobindo.
There are around 3000 permanent residents living in Auroville, and almost 1 million visitors per year.
There are different segments of Auroville which span across 20 square kilometres. Most famously, it is home to a very striking Mandir used for meditation (pictured above). There’s also a garden, a huge lake, and an amphitheater where most of the cultural and devotional programmes take place.
Auroville is a very unique place. The history and way of life has a whole philosophy behind its conception. It aims to be self-sustaining with no government, no currency and no religion. However, from my visit, it was hard to tell how this is actually applied.
One aspect is that Auroville emphasises on a gifting economy, where services and goods are offered without a direct exchange of money. Residents contribute to the community through various forms of work and service, and in return, their basic needs are met. This reflects a deeper philosophical belief in a society where individuals contribute not for profit but for the collective well-being.
This aside, Auroville offers a peaceful and interesting experience that warrants at least one overnight stay, though longer if its ethos aligns with your interests. Some people end up staying months…
6. Experience the flavours of Goubert Market
Anytime I visit a new place, I love going to the local market because I think it’s the best way to get a snapshot of local life when you don’t have too much time on your hands.
Goubert Market is the perfect place to get a sense of India’s fast pace and an opportunity to find out more about local produce. Don’t miss the fish section, here you’ll find a cast of all-female sellers trying to cajole you to choose from an assortment of fish whilst the men are out doing the fishing.
7. See the peachy facade of Our Lady of Angels
Welcome to one of the oldest churches in Pondicherry, Our Lady of Angels. The architecture found in this church is Greco-Roman which might be surprising in India, but less so as you discover Pondicherry is an eclectic mix of east-meets-west.
Inside the church you can find various beautiful paintings and sculptures, including one of Joan of Arc in the surrounding garden – the French touch is really everywhere in Pondicherry.
8. Explore Pondicherry’s French Quarter
Our Lady of Angels is located in the French Quarter, an area you’ll want to explore further. It takes about a couple of hours to leisurely explore the area, looking out for the best preserved buildings and the prettiest streets.
There are a few buildings and place worth stopping by in the French Quarter. Start at Hotel de l’Orient, an 18th century mansion that became the French Quarter’s first renovated boutique hotel. Before this and other properties started to refocus on the tourism potential of its heritage, Pondi was a rather peaceful and sleepy coastal town. But the renewed interest from locals converted some of these crumbling French colonial mansions into hotels, cafes and restaurants.
9. Admire the colourful facade of Arulmigu Manakula Vinayagar Temple
The brightly painted gopuram of this temple attracts instant attention, but there’s more to Arulmigu Manakula Vinayagar Temple than its vibrant exterior and stunning architecture.
Built more than 350 years ago, this ancient temple is dedicated to Lord Ganesha and draws devotees from all over Pondicherry and beyond. Among the main attractions of the temple is a beautifully engraved golden chariot made from teakwood and 7.5 kg gold. The temple complex also houses a shrine devoted to Lord Murugan, who is the younger brother of Lord Ganesha.
10. Treat yourself in the shops!
Usually I’d never suggest shopping in one my travel guides, but there are so many beautiful things to buy for yourself or someone back home. What’s more, objects, clothes, accessories are so much cheaper in India that most places, especially Europe! It would be rude not to 😉
Being a tourist destination, there are plenty of shops from where you can buy local handicrafts. Some of the best things you can shop for are spices, aromatic candles, essential oils and natural incense sticks. Apart from these, if you are ready to loosen your pockets a bit more, you can buy hand-made wooden carved objects, jewellery, and clothes. I bought a few pieces of clothing, including a cashmere scarf because it worked out a lot cheaper to buy in India.
11. Creative immersion at Sita Cultural Center
Another thing that you can try out is a visit to Sita Cultural Center. If you are a lover of all things arts, this place is for you. Here you can learn and do plenty of creative things. Things like learning traditional Kolam art, a mehndi crash course, a quick yoga session are on offer. You can also indulge yourself in the spa and Ayurvedic massage that concentrates on problem areas and helps in easing pain.
I couldn’t recommend visiting Sita Cultural Center enough. If Elsa and I hadn’t found this place and signed up to a variety of classes including, cooking classes, an earring making workshop and a yoga session, we would not have had half the fun we had in Pondicherry.
12. Enjoy delicious vegetarian food at Surguru
There are lots of great restaurants in Pondicherry but Surguru is an institution and I found myself returning several times.
Each time the service was friendly, attentive and fast. Most importantly, the food was delicious. The lunch tali which is shown in the above photo only cost approximately £2 so its great value too. It’s not fancy, but’s authentic and that’s the most important thing when I’m looking for good food.
I’d also recommend the Chana Batura and Paneer Butter Masala. They ask how spicy you want it so you can be rest assured your preferences will be catered for.
Address: 104 S V Patel Salai, Pondicherry 605001 India
13. Day trip to Mamallapuram
A day trip to Mamallapuram (also known as Mahabalipuram) from Pondicherry is an absolute must. It offers a perfect blend of historical exploration, scenic coastal views, and cultural immersion. I think Mamallapuram was my favourite place in the whole of Tamil Nadu, so yeh, don’t miss visiting!
Located around 100 kilometres (62 miles) from Pondicherry, the journey takes roughly 2 hours by car along the scenic East Coast Road. For such a relatively small town, there’s are MANY historical sites and cave temples, so make sure to set off early to ensure you see the highlights.
Where to stay in Pondicherry
There are lots of options for accommodation in Pondicherry to cater for all budgets and tastes.
If it’s your first time in Pondicherry, I recommend staying in the White Town (the name is a bit questionable given its colonial past, I know). However, it’s a quiet part of town despite being on the doorstep to the main attractions. It offers a range of heritage accommodation options, where French flair blends with Tamil architectural style.
For comfort, character, and a touch of luxury, I recommend stay at Grand Hotel D’Europe which comes complete with its own swimming pool.
If you’re looking for the best hotel in town, and price isn’t really an issue, then Palais De Mahe is the best for you. This heritage hotel also has a swimming pool but outshines with the rest with its bright yellow facade and beautiful Tamil furniture.
However, if you’re travelling on a budget, Golden Sun Inn is located nearby Rock Beach in the White Town. It’s hard to beat the price, and it’s good value considering the location, cleanliness and friendly staff.
