As the saying goes, the best things come in small packages, and this is certainly true for Wells, England’s smallest city. So if you want to visit a city that doesn’t feel like one – a city without glass towers, without big shopping centres and without hectic roads – Wells is your answer.
Situated among the beautiful Mendip Hills in Somerset, this pint-sized city is a medieval postcard brought to life. Cobbled streets, crooked stone houses, a cathedral that looks like it’s been plucked straight out of a fantasy novel.
However, despite singing its praises, I’m embarrassed to say that I knew very little about Wells before stepping foot in the city. To be honest, I didn’t even know the city existed until a few years ago!
It only reached my radar upon reading a random article about the most beautiful cathedrals in England. After that, I did a bit more research and made a mental note to visit someday. As someone who was born in England, I’m continually reminded about how little I’ve explored on my home turf. The places to visit are never-ending.
Well, anyway, at the end of this summer I finally visited Bath, Bristol, Castle Combe, Avebury, Cheddar Gorge and Wells. They’re all within an hour from each other by car, and among all these wonderful places, Wells impressed upon me the most.
A brief history of Wells – sacred springs and a city is born
Wells gets its name in the most literal way possible – from the natural springs, or wells, that bubble up around the base of the Mendip Hills. These springs have been flowing since Roman times and are still visible today at the Bishop’s Palace gardens and as an elaborate stone feature of the marketplace.
Back in the Anglo-Saxon period, those freshwater springs made this area an ideal place to settle. It offered safe water, fertile land, and a ready-made gathering point. The settlement became known simply as “Wells,” and the name stuck.
By the 8th century, it had grown important enough to have a minster church (the precursor to the mighty cathedral), and in 909 it became the seat of a bishop. The springs were considered not just practical, but spiritual, sacred places of renewal and purity which added to the area’s religious significance.
With the establishment of Wells thoroughly marked, the cathedral’s foundation in the 12th century sealed its fate. As some of you might already know, typically most places in England (but there are exceptions) are recognised as cities if they have a cathedral. So despite fewer than 12,000 people living in Wells today, it was formerly recognised as a city by our late Queen Liz in 1974.
Things to do and see in Wells
Marvel at Wells Cathedral
Wells cathedral is the city’s crowning glory. Its west front is a wall of carved saints and kings, 300 of them, staring down like guards overlooking the city.
As I stood staring at the figures, a flashback came to me of my old school teachers. I can still picture their solemn expressions during exams. Slowly pacing up and down, paroling the aisles. Fear soaking through the air. Would I be accused of cheating if I so much dare as glance up from my paper? The sound of students sniffling and coughing into the sleeve of their uniform. It’s enough to put a shiver down my spine.
Thankfully as I made my way inside, I forgot about school and marvelled at the interior. The scissor arches take centre stage, defying logic, helping to hold up the juggernaut of a building. There’s a medieval astronomical clock too said to be the oldest in the world. Catch it at the right time, and watch jousting knights race around on the quarter hour.
It’s truly a building where you stand in awe at the sheer mastery of human craftsmanship. In any era, this kind of architecture is impressive, but it actually boggles the mind it was built 900 years ago without the technology we have today. Crazy. There’s so much detail in every nook and cranny.
All the walls are immaculately clean. So it’s hard to believe Wells Cathedral used to be painted in a rainbow of colours. I assumed this change came during the Reformation, but I read it was stripped of colour in the mid 1900s as that was the trend of the time. In contrast, in nearby St Cuthbert’s Church (see later in this post), be sure to look up at a restored ceiling in full decorative colour.
Anyhow, Wells Cathedral deserves an article entirely of its own so I’ll update with a link soon.
Vicars’ Close – a walk back in time
Right next door is Vicars’ Close, and it’s almost unnerving in its perfection. This 14th-century street is the oldest continuously inhabited residential street in Europe. Fancy that for a slice of history. As its name suggests, all the buildings used to provide accommodation for the cathedral’s clergy and officials.
The chimneys all line up and the cobbles are uneven in all the right ways. Just like a movie set. I imagine when dusk falls and the lamps light up, you half expect to see shadowy figures come shuffling down in hooded robes.
Discover the narrow channels of water running through the city
One of the little details that makes Wells feel so alive and unique is the water that still runs through it. As you walk near the Market Place make sure to look down. You’ll see narrow stone channels, called leats, running along the edges of the pavement. This is the same spring water that gave the city its name, still flowing centuries later. In the Middle Ages, these channels supplied clean water to residents – an early bit of civic engineering.
Today, the plumbing is a bit more sophisticated but they’re part of Wells’ soundtrack, a gentle trickle that follows you through the streets. In other uses, I delighted in spotting how they serve the local dogs who need to quench their thirst every now and again. Cute!
Explore Bishop’s Palace and moat
The first thing that will capture your attention is the moat. A rare sight to see nowadays. It’s encircled completely by water and home to a graceful flock of swans who go between taking a swim, relaxing on the grass, and posing for the camera. The only thing missing was an actual wooden drawbridge.
When I went to purchase a ticket to visit inside, the staff informed me that they were closing early to make way for a wedding. The interior looks beautiful so I was a bit disappointed. But what could I do? Storm the wedding and ask them to take it elsewhere? No, that wouldn’t be a good look. And I’m sure I would’ve been dragged out by one of the guards and thrown into the palace dungeon before being escorted out by the police.
So I guess I have a good reason to return. In fact, there are many reasons to return to Wells. I’d happily spend a weekend here again just soaking up the peaceful atmosphere and indulging in the food scene.
Walk through Penniless Porch
One of three medieval gateways into the cathedral precinct, this medieval gateway has an interesting history. It got its name from the needy who would gather in the porch to shelter here for warmth and ask for charity from people passing by.
Inside you will find a plaque that reads: “Penniless Porch – Built about 1450 by Bishop Bekynton, a benefactor to this city. Here beggars used to ask for alms”. It’s a reminder that medieval life wasn’t all cathedrals and glory.
Visit St Cuthbert’s Church
Everyone comes to Wells for the cathedral, but wander a little further into town and you’ll find St Cuthbert’s Church. Its tall stone tower is big enough that many visitors assume it is the cathedral until they turn a corner and see the real thing looming in the distance.
This church is dedicated to St Cuthbert of Lindisfarne, a beloved 7th-century saint, and the building itself dates back to the 13th century, though it’s been remodelled and expanded many times since.
Step inside and you’ll find something truly special: the painted ceiling. It’s a riot of medieval colour, a series of angels playing musical instruments, restored to its former glory after being whitewashed over during the Reformation. It shows how vivid and alive English churches once were before centuries of austerity stripped them bare.
Visiting St Cuthbert’s gives you a quieter, more intimate sense of Wells’ religious life. The cathedral might be the headline act, but this church is the soul of the community, where baptisms, weddings, and funerals have taken place for nearly 800 years.
During my visit, I was lucky enough to witness the organist bashing out a surprising upbeat piece of music. Most unusual, is that are the organ pipes which sit far away from the organ itself. I’m not sure how the sound travels from the organ to the pipes from such a distance but it both impressed and intrigued me.
Eating and drinking in Wells
Wells might be small, but it punches above its weight when it comes to food. This is Somerset, after all, the land of cider, cheese, and proper hearty cooking. Eateries range from cosy cafes to pubs, and from takeaway bakeries to Michelin- recommended restaurants. Here are just a few to get you started:
Long Story Bistro
While I love food from all over the globe, there’s something about quaint little English towns and cities that makes me want to indulge in proper English grub, and few things define this better than a full English breakfast. Long Story Bistro is the place to go for such the occasion.
There’s also plenty of veggie options too. The falafel platter comes with hummus, chickpeas, mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes. The coffee is also very good for that all important caffeine fix. It’s located right next to St Cuthbert’s Church in a lovely part of town.
The Crown at Wells
While I didn’t try this place myself, I want to include it because it’s the most famous pub in the city. If you’re a Hot Fuzz fan, you might recognise it. It’s the pub where Nicholas Angel orders a cranberry juice. It’s not just a film location; it’s a good place to grab a pint of local ale and a plate of pub grub.
The Good Earth
A vegetarian cafe that locals love – even meat-eaters are said to be full of praise. Great for soups, salads, and homemade cakes. Part restaurant, part homeware shop, part wholefood store, the Wells institution has been feeding locals and visitors for 45 years.
Root Wells
You know I said I would like to return to Wells to see inside the Palace? Well the other reason is to try the menu at Root. This restaurant comes Michelin-recommend so this should guarantee top quality food (not always case, but it’s usually a very good indication of quality). When I do plan to go back, I’m booking a table here and I’ll update this post!
Final thoughts from my trip to Wells
Along with claiming the title for the smallest city English, I’d honestly also unofficially call it the most beautiful too. Well, actually, hold on, I’ll put it at the top alongside York. They’re both different, and York is much bigger, but they’re both medieval cities with bags of character. Oops, I forgot about Oxford and Cambridge. Okay, Wells is one of the most beautiful cities in England. I don’t want to start any arguments (mainly with myself).
For such a small place, where you can see everything on foot, the attractions of Wells really do pack a punch. I wouldn’t hesitate for a second before recommending anyone to visit. Even on a rainy day it lifts the spirit.
