Only a few years ago, Comuna 13 was the most dangerous area in Medellin. This is not to be taken lightly, after all the city was dubbed ‘the most dangerous city on earth’ by Time magazine in the 90s.
Once home to the world’s most notorious and violent drug cartel, headed by Pablo Escobar, drug lords lived like princes, ordinary people disappeared overnight, and judges and police were regularly assassinated.
Rising from the ashes
How the situation improved
It’s important to acknowledge these changes did no come without resistance. Before major changes in the urban landscape could take place, the military and paramilitaries conducted operations to drive out guerrillas that once controlled the district. During these operations innocent lives were caught in the deadly crossfire during violent encounters between the police, army, paramilitary, and guerillas.
In 2002, after the last military operation, things changed thanks to a governmental experiment in social urbanism led by former city mayor Sergio Fajardo. Large monetary investments were put into the poorest communities in an attempt to give people greater social mobility and a vision of their future away from crime and violence.
Implementing new infrastructure in Medellin
Immediate changes appeared after implementing new infrastructure, including a metro cable and six outdoor escalators. This has made life in Comuna 13 a whole lot easier for residents who used to even struggle obtaining food because transporting goods to higher, more out of reach areas along the hillside was previously difficult. With nearly 160,000 people within the district, many lives have been drastically improved. The area is no longer a hot-bed for gang violence, police raids, cartels and illegal trafficking.
The new infrastructure has also been pivotal in opening the area up for tourism like never before. Previously, tourists were strongly advised against stepping foot in Comuna 13, and now daily tours are available to explore this once prohibited area.
Building more a prosperous community
It’s not just transport either, education and social programmes have all been leveraged to build a community. A new school has been built and residents can now enjoy public gardens and improved pedestrian walkways that were once used as rubbish dumps or collateral damage.
There’s also a community centre where music, art and cultural activities can now all be enjoyed. People no longer seem so worried about their safety, I saw lots of children playing out and enjoying the new additions that have been invested into the area.
Wandering around the streets of Commune 13, you’ll see an abundance of vibrant wall murals
If street art is your thing, I recommend joining a street art tour, which will also enable you to see and visit places you might otherwise miss when exploring by yourself.
For more street art in Colombia, you should also head to Bogota.
Read more → Born Out of Tragedy: Bogota’s Incredible Street Art
What to remember when you visit
Needless to say, please be respectful of the people living here, Comuna 13 is not just a place to go to say ‘you’ve been’ and gawk at the past. There are important things to learn and take away from your visit.
It is not just undergoing a physical transformation either, there’s been a whole mental shift too. See how creativity and social urbanisation gives younger generations an outlet away from gang violence, listen to their stories and be sure to check out shops and cafes. One thing you’ll notice for sure is how colourful this place is from an abundance of street art.
Where to eat in Comuna 13
I don’t think I could have stumbled across more life-affirming food than Restaurante Berracas de la 13, literally translating to The Restaurant of the Strong Women of Comuna 13.
Before it opened, a group of women came together and bonded through cooking as a way of seeking solace from the gang violence around them. Many of the women were single-parents and needed the support of other women in similar situations, who shared the common goal of improving their quality of life.
Only a few years on, not only do they now run a restaurant, they’ve even published a book which includes their individual stories and recipes.
I opted for a vegetarian plate which consisted of fresh salad, plantain, red beans (a favourite of mine) and a veggie patty.
There are many stories to be found in Comuna 13, and I truly believe no trip to Medellin is complete without visiting this part of the city for yourself.
