Dharamshala in Northern India is famous for its association with the Dalai Lama and Tibetan community. It’s a fascinating and soul-nourishing place, and not far beyond the city you can experience soul-stirring peaks and joyful encounters with nature.
For anyone planning a visit to Dharamshala in Northern India, I encourage you to journey out onto the nearby nature trails that surround the city. If you’re wondering what hikes to do – as there are many – the Triund Trek is accessible to everyone and should be at the top of your list.
Triund is a green alpine meadow situated on top of a hill station from where you have breathtaking views of the snow-capped Dhauladhar mountains and Kangra valley.
The hike to Triund from McLeodganj is a captivating adventure that promises majestic landscapes, walking with mountain goats, and the sheer joy of being up-close and connected with the Himalayan foothills.
Duration, distance & difficulty level
Duration: The trek to Triund begins from McLeodganj and can easily be completed in one day. It usually takes 3 hrs up and 2 hrs down. You’ll want to leave enough time to spend at least 1 – 2 hrs enjoying the views from Triund Hill, so I recommend starting early.
Note: You can extend by one or two days by continuing onto the Snowlike Trek and also the Indrahar Pass Trek which takes you to 4,342 metres above sea level.
Distance: Depending on your starting point, it’s between 18 – 22 km round trip on foot.
Elevation: Triund is at an altitude of 2800 metres, with a trek elevation of approx 1000 metres.
Difficulty: Although difficulty rating is quite subjective, I think it’s relatively easy – moderate comparative to other treks in the area.
I can assure you that if you have general fitness, with no problems standing on your feet all day, then you will be able to comfortably finish the trek in one day. If you get tired, there’s plenty of resting opportunities along the way, including a few stops for refreshments.
Getting to the trailhead
The starting point of the trek is Galu Devi Temple, and you can get there by walking or getting a taxi from Mcleodganj, or from Bhagsu Nag village. Of the two, Mcleod Ganj is more straightforward and easier, but Bhagsu Nah offers the better views to where the trail starts at Galu.
1st part of the Triund Trek
The start of the trail is well marked and offers charming views of the valley and Dharamshala in the distance.
Almost as soon as the hike began, the uniqueness of the Triund trek began to unfold. From behind me, I could hear hooves clicking on the path and the sound was getting closer and closer.
I turned to look around, and saw a Shepard accompanied by his herd of donkeys and horses carrying heavy supplies strapped to their side. A couple of tiny dogs were running along for the ride like little musketeers.
I walked with them for a while, feeling utterly overjoyed to be sharing the path with a herd of animals instead of a hoard of humans.
Eventually, I was no match for their well-oiled engines, causing the gap between us to grow until they disappeared up the paths and behind a forest of trees.
About halfway through, I reached Magic View café, a charming makeshift mountain shop.
Located at the side of a cliff, it offered sublime views of the valley below. I ordered a chai tea and rested for a few moments to take in the full panorama of the valley.
As much as I felt content to stay, the thought of getting a better view from the top lifted me from my seat and onto my feet once again.
2nd part of Triund Trek + encounter with mountain goats
Soon after leaving Magic View café, I stopped in my tracks at the sight of a huge group of mountain goats. It was unlike anything I’d ever seen before.
Amusingly, most of them were lounging around the main path. They couldn’t have looked less disinterested about the humans trying to pass through, myself included. I wondered whether it would be best to wait until a clearing in the path became available. Instead, I ended up weaving myself around them, careful not to step on any tails.
I stood for a while, marvelling at their beautiful long coats which swept along the ground like majestic capes in glossy shades of cream and brown, and grey and black.
Their most notable feature, their horns, looked as though they had been carved from a sculptor’s well-honed chisel. No two were the same. Each unique and differed dramatically in shape. Some horns shot up like spiral daggers, others had grown in flat a circular motion like two cinnamon swirls.
Adding to the awe-inspiring scene were adorable babies goats, or ‘kids’ frolicking under the sun. They looked exactly like lambs. So cute! Possessing the energy of youth; not yet fully confident or capable on their legs but brimming with that youthful curiosity and persistence to get up and keep trying.
I genuinely could have turned back now and I would have been extremely happy. I felt nothing could top my encounter with these magisterial creatures. Though I still had lots of fuel in my tank, and with more people making their way up, it was time to move on.
Reaching Triund Hill
The climb from here got steeper and rockier, and with this the views of the valley became wider and more spectacular.
The last 25 minutes to the top were probably the most challenging, with many curves in the trail (22 in total), but totally doable.
Right before reaching the top, the view was obscured by a mound of huge boulders, only adding to the anticipation. Finally, one swift turn around the final corner, and there it was, the magnificent Dhauladhar mountain range of the Himalayas.
Stunning doesn’t even begin to describe it. I just stood scanning the whole view and imprinting it to memory. This was a moment I wanted to last forever.
If someone had told me that I was in Switzerland, I would have believed them. The towering sharpness of the slopes that looked almost close enough to touch, extended beyond a fertile meadow filled with grazing horses.
I sometimes wonder, how on earth does such beauty even exist, and how lucky I am to experience it.
Exploring Triund Hill – boulders & paragliders
In the distance, I spotted a couple of paragliders, and watched them surf and meander through the thin clouds setting off from the top and into the valley below.
I have always thought if I could be transformed into any animal, it would be a bird. Can you imagine? Gliding across mountain tops, valleys, rivers, and borders. These paragliders seemed to have achieved something magical that resembled such freedom, if only for a few short but exhilarating moments.
As I began to explore Triund Hill, I came across lots of huge rocks, a playground for bouldering enthusiast. There weren’t many people in this section so I scrambled up a few just for the fun of it.
I stayed on Triund Hill for almost two hours, until fog started to appear. I watched as it engulfed the summit and soon could see nothing of the sharp peaks. It was a good job I started early. Had I arrived in the late afternoon, I would have been disappointed. Slowly, I turned around and made the journey back the way I came.
By stepping out onto these time-worn paths located on the foothills of the Himalayas, you’ll leave with a little bit of your heart behind.
When is the best time to hike Triund?
The trek to Triund top can be done almost all year round except for the rainy months of July and August, and if you want to hike during peak winter months of January and February there will be a lot of snow so you should only go with a guide.
In December, you can expect the first snowfall on the trek. The spring and summer months of March to June have the best weather conditions to trek. Though post-monsoon in autumn from early September to November have the clearest views of the mountains during the trek.
I went in early October and the weather was perfect for hiking, with great visibility to enjoy crystal-clear views of the Dhauladhar mountains and Kangra valley
Want a more challenging hike? Add on the Indrahar Pass Trek
If you’re after something more challenging, you can extend the trek by one or two nights to complete the Indrahar Pass which reaches an elevation of 4300+ metres. Essentially, you do the Triund Trek, but continue to the Pass which increases in difficulty. It takes 3 or 4 days depending on your pace.
If you wish to do this hike, I recommend going with High Point Adventure. It’s an excellent and honest tour company and the guides are very kind and knowledgable. You can find their office located on Dalai Lama Temple Road in Mcleodganj.
Readjusting expectations
I was supposed to do this trek with a guide, but had to cancel the morning of this hike as I spent most of the night awake. I’m not sure what happened exactly, but I’m quite certain it was an allergy to moth balls. Yep, of all things, moth balls. Many accommodations use them across India and they’re full of chemicals. For some of you, the smell might be nostalgic of your grandma’s cupboards. They certainly are for me.
The day previously, I had been hiking around the area and frolicking in the nature, feeling happy as a bee in honey. Everything was great until it was time to sleep.
Once I laid down and attempted to nod off, the sneezing started from out of nowhere. My nose turned into a running tap, followed by uncomfortable wheezing from my chest. The symptoms lasted all night, and I felt tired and miserable in the morning.
After a few moments of self-pity, I decided it would be better just do the Triund Trek. I was concerned it would develop into a cold, and I wouldn’t have the energy to make it over the Indera Pass, so figured I’d settle with the hike to Triud which I’d still manage even if I was feeling under the weather.
Regardless, the beauty that unfolded on the Triund Trek, and the view from the top, was enough to literally unblock my nose so I could smell the nature (also… there’s no nasty moths balls in nature so that helped!).
I’m sure I can also attribute feeling good to all the extra endorphins that you naturally get from all that increased breathing while hiking!
Final thoughts
If you’re thinking about doing the Triund Trek but feel unsure, hopefully reading this is the prompt you need to do it. I recommend it anyone with half-decent knees and a love for the outdoors.
Honestly, the views are so beautiful. Once I reached the top and saw the panorama that has been awaiting me, I literally cried. Now that tells you everything you need to know.
Where to stay in McLeodganj
I stayed in two different places while in McLeodganj – one in the centre of town that was a bit more plush, and the other was basic accommodation situated in nature.
If you’re short on time, I recommend staying somewhere in the centre of town. This way you’ll also have a wealth of cultural offerings on your doorstep, not to mention some great places to eat after a day of exploring.
While in town, I recommend staying at Norbu House. It has everything you need and more. Close proximity to the Dalai Lama Temple and each room has a balcony with beautiful views.
For the basic accommodation, I stayed at Sagar Cottage (not bookable online), which is located next to Galu Devi Temple. If you have a heavy wheelie bag, this place will be tricky to reach, but if you’re looking to be away from town and just want to go hiking, then it provides a good base. While it might be basic, the higher vantage point affords exceptional views.
If you’re looking for somewhere bookable that’s set on the outskirts of the city and closer to nature, Saheb’s Castle also offers an alternative stay.
Are you planning to do the Triund Trek?
For more mountains, trails, and inspiration from around the world, be sure to check out my other articles about hiking.
