Łódź often gets overlooked by tourists in favour of other cities like Krakow, Warsaw, Gdansk and Poznan that are considered conventionally more attractive.
While it doesn’t jump out in the way that Krakow does for its beautiful architecture, Gdansk for its seaside appeal, or Warsaw for its status as a capital city, it would be a shame not to include Łódź in any trip to Poland. In my opinion it is one of the country’s most interesting cities.
The city has climbed out from a difficult past and now shines like a diamond in the rough. If your interests lie in history, film, or art, then you’ll certainly find Poland’s 3rd largest city rewarding. Adding to this are the new restaurants and small businesses that have frequently been cropping up in Łódź in the last 10 years, making it even more desirable to visit.
We can all think of cities that we love and long to return to time and time again, and for me, Łódź is definitely one of them. I’ve been a few times and each visit I discover something new and interesting. There’s something about this city that pulls you in and makes you want to peel back its many layers.
Here’s my list of the best things to do in Łódź:
1. Visit MS2 Modern Art Museum
Admittedly, I wasn’t expecting to find much in this art museum only due to the fact that richer or bigger cities generally get the lion’s share of important art works. However, the collection at MS2 knocked my socks off.
It’s spread across several floors and filled with both Polish and international artists of the highest quality. The interesting curation and avant-garde pieces, including installations, film, sculptures, and furniture, easily competes on the same level as many of the top art museums across Europe.
The temporary exhibition on the ground floor is often really minimal and designed in an interesting way with space and light taken into consideration.
Located inside the renovated Manufaktura complex, this is certainly one of the best contemporary art collections in Poland.
Address: Ogrodowa 19, 91-071 Łódź, Poland. (Free admission on Fridays)
2. Take in the sights of Piotrkowska Street
Almost five kilometres long, Piotrkowska Street is one of the longest pedestrian streets in the world. There’s no better location to begin your visit of the city. Along this main street you’ll find top restaurants, boutique shops, nightspots, and other attractions.
Despite being formerly overlooked, a striking thing to recognise on Piotrkowska Street are the many Art Nouveau buildings, signalling the once very prosperous era of the city. Though many of the buildings fell into decline, in more recent years these historical properties have been restored to their turn-of-the-century splendour.
About mid-way along at no. 72 stands the Grand Hotel, where figures as varied as Tito, Himmler, and Roman Polanski have stayed. Cinema lovers might be also interested to know that scenes from David Lynch’s 2007 film Inland Empire took place within its rooms. Cool, right? I’ve been to the city a few times and I’ve alway stayed this hotel in homage to my love for the American film director.
At no. 78 you’ll be at the childhood home of the Polish-American classical pianist Arthur Rubinstein and you’ll find a monument of him playing the grand piano. Another fun ode to famous Poles is a Walk of Fame, just like you can find in Hollywood.
3. Admire the colours of Saint Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
If you like pretty things, then you’ll love the beautifully bright and colourful appearance of Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It looks like a massive cake, don’t you think?
It’s a stunning 19th century Catholic Orthodox building originating from when the city was part of the Russian Empire.
Although I haven’t been inside myself, it’s worth a visit just to marvel at the ornate Neo-Byzantine style architecture. It’s really not like anything else you’ll see in Łódź so make sure you stroll by to see it.
4. Explore Manufaktura
Opened in 2006, the Manufaktura, a renovated textile factory turned entertainment / shopping / cultural complex, really gave birth to Łódź’s renaissance.
It’s a cultural and social hub where locals and tourists come together to experience a wide range of activities including dining, film, arts, and other pleasure-seeking pursuits.
The site also includes the largest public square in Łódź, which makes it a popular place for relaxing, catching up with friends and simply watching the world go by.
The project is an incredible example of how architecture and using old resources really has the ability to transform a city, whilst at the same time reflecting on its history to promote its future.
5. Experience the Museum of Cinematography
Opened in 1986 inside Karol Scheibler’s 19th-century palace, the Cinematography Museum delves into the industry that Poland has contributed to significantly.
The museum itself offers a well-presented history of Polish cinema and brings into a focus the multitude of Polish film directors and stars who studied in the city before going on to bigger projects, such a Krzysztof Kieślowski, Roman Polanski and Andrzej Wajda.
This is the only museum of its kind in Poland and presents a rewarding experience for fans of Polish cinema and avid lovers of cinema more broadly.
The collection features over 50,000 items including over 12,000 film posters, art exhibits and projectors and camera equipment of every kind. Standout features of the museum include the Fotoplastikon – a giant drum-like contraption popular in the early 20th century for showing 3D films, and the excellent exhibit devoted to animated photography featuring plenty of vintage stop-motion characters and accompanying clips.
Address: plac Zwycięstwa 1, 90-312 Łódź, Poland
6. Look for Street Art
You don’t even need to look for street art in Łódź. There’s so much of it you might run the risk of think of thinking you were in the area of Kreuzberg in Berlin or the side-streets of Kiev.
When I first came to the city, I couldn’t believe the vast number of wall murals. More shocking, is the quality – the best I’ve seen anywhere in the world. You’ll find work by international artists, ROA, Etam Crew, Morik and many more.
Read more: Getting to Know Lodz Through Its Street Art
7. Visit the Jewish Cemetery
First built to accommodate deaths from a Cholera epidemic in 1892, this is the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe. It holds 180,000 graves and 65,000 tombs with many laid to rest inside elaborate tombs that are works of art themselves.
Inside are a number of prominent Poles, including the biggest Jewish mausoleum which belongs to Israel Poznański). He was a prominent Polish-Jewish textile industrialist, philanthropist, and one of the wealthiest entrepreneurs of the 19th century in Łódź, Poland. He played a major role in transforming Łódź into a significant textile hub in Eastern Europe, becoming one of the city’s most influential figures.
A more sobering experience is found south of the cemetery. Here, approximately 45,000 Jews who died in the ghetto were buried in a build-for-purpose area known as the ‘Ghetto Field’ between 1940 -1944. A death-rate in such a small space of time, and in only one city that is almost too vast to conceive.
For more information about the Jewish Cemetery in Łódź read more here.
8. Reflect at the Park of Survivors
After visiting the Jewish Cemetery, make your way to the Park of Survivors, known in Polish as Park Ocalałych. While the Cemetery is a sobering experience, the Park of Survivors is up-lifting experience, honouring those who survived the Łódź Ghetto.
Among the tributes is a mound with a bench commemorating WWII resistance-movement soldier, Jan Karski, who fearlessly smuggled information out of Polish to Polish Government in Exile.
This park is made evermore special after learning that every single tree was planted by a survivor of the war. A symbol that life and new beginnings continues after pain.
9. Take in the shimmer and shine of Pasaz Rozy
Translating to Rose’s Passage, this courtyard just off Piotrkowska Street is one of the quirkiest things you’ll find in the city. This attraction quite literally and figuratively sparkles. It reminded me instantly of Philadelphia’s Magic Garden by Isaiah Zagar which I’d seen years before.
With whole building is completely covered in a mosaic of cut glass and can dazzle even on the rainiest of days.
Address: 3 Piotrkowska St.
10. Visit Radegast Old Train Station
I’ve said Łódź wears its history on its sleeve and this small, old, train station turned museum is another example.
It’s one thing going to a purpose-built museum that details the horrors of the war, but it’s an entirely different experience standing at the site where thousands and thousands of Jewish Poles bordered on trains before being taken to their concentration camps.
Outside is also one of the original wooden train carriages.
11. Head to the hipster spots at Off Piotrkowska
This derelict factory area that no-one would go near less than a decade ago, has been re-imagined as a hipster spot for beer lovers and foodie seekers. The area attracts a diverse crowd from international students to young professionals. It’s no surprise it has become somewhat of a hipster hangout with its local-brew beers and other tempting libations.
Spoldzielnia is a great place to hang around in the evening, or for lunch with a choice between alfresco in the summer and a cosy and contemporary spot in cooler months.
You’ll also find a selection of alternative business including studios, independent design companies and small publishing houses.
12. Head inside Łódź History Museum
The History of Łódź Museum is set inside a beautiful former palace. Highlights include a lithograph and painting by Marc Chagall, and a room dedicated to the pianist Arthur Rubenstein.
Rubenstein is considered one of the greatest pianists of the 20th century, especially noted for his interpretation of Chopin. In homage is a statue of him playing a piano on the street he was born – the famous Piotrkowska Street.
13. Take a day trip to Warsaw
In less than 2-hours you can be in Warsaw. Why not set off in the morning to Poland’s capital city and catch the train back in the early evening? It’s definitely doable by train. I did it and I was surprised by how much I managed to cram into one day.
Check train times and book tickets to Warsaw in advance via Trainline.com.
Where to stay in Łódź
There are plenty of places to stay in Łódź but each time I stay at Hotel Grand purely because scenes from Lynch’s Inland Empire were shot inside. It is located on Piotrkowska street so you can’t beat it for location.
It’s impressive to think it opened its doors to the public in 1888 and has been running ever since. The hotel has also recently undergone a large-scale renovation so I imagine it’s pretty swanky now.
5 responses
Interesting. Have been considering Gdańsk for a while, but Łódź had passed me by. You’ve definitely peaked my interest! I love the way cities are regenerating their beaten up areas. I saw the same in Bordeaux, really transforms a place
Hi Ben! If you find interest in seeing how a city has regenerated after surviving a difficult history, and don’t care if everything doesn’t look like a postcard, then you’ll appreciate Łódź. There’s lots to see and do and its super affordable. I’m not sure if you’re been to Warsaw, but the two cities go well together, and on another trip I combined Berlin with Poznan and Łódź which I also recommend. I’ve never been to Bordeaux so thanks for the heads up!
‘Nice one Shing!
I always travel to Poland, but I’ve been wanting to go to Łódź for ages! All my Polish friends who know me reckon that with history, film and arts, (stuff that I already love), I’ll have a very fine time indeed!
Now I actually live in Berlin, so I just have to map out some time…!
Lodz is nice but I have to admit I like Warsaw more. I recommend checking out some night clubs near Metro Swietokrzyska. I went to New Orlean Club and it was a great food, music and pole dancing shows. 🙂
Lodz is kinda boring. Go to Warsaw to experience the craziest time on your life! If you want to go to night clubs you have to visit New Orelans on Zgoda street.