Rozafa Castle is an important archeological and historical monument located in Shkoder, one of the oldest and most historic cities in Albania.
Perched on a hilltop overlooking the confluence of the Buna, Drin, and Kiri rivers, it is considered Shkoder’s most iconic landmark. The views from the top of these ancient ruins are unrivalled, and worth visiting for the panoramas alone.
However, there is a lot more to Rozafa Castle than meets the eye. Adding to the intrigue of this historical site is a local legend steeped in mystery and poetic tragedy…
History of Rozafa Castle
Rozafa Castle looks like a fantasy setting straight out of a scene from the Game of Thrones. Once you see the sprawling views, you will understand why various empires desired to capture this site. You can see from miles and miles all around. It would be an incredible asset to any empire wishing to strengthen their position.
The castle’s 130m elevated position would make it difficult for invaders to launch successful assaults, and its thick walls to withstand multiple sieges.
Adding to this is the castle’s undeniable beauty. Liked a precious jewel or sacred object, it’s no surprise why men fought over millennia to capture this magnificent landmark – it would appeal to anyone with a penchant for power.
The history of Rozafa Castle is long and complex. In brief, here are some key moments that changed the course of its history.
Illyrian Origins
The castle’s roots stretch back to the 4th century BCE, when it was established by the Illyrians as a strategic military base.
Roman, Byzantine, and Venetian Influence
The Romans attacked the Illyrians in 168 BCE and occupied the fort while establishing many trade routes. Later it passed down to the Byzantine Empire. After some centuries of local rule, the Venetians took the area and made their own architectural contributions. They rebuilt the ruined fortress, the impressive gateway and consecrated St. Stephen’s Cathedral.
Ottoman Conquest
In 1478 the Ottomans seized the castle and strengthened their military strategy in the Balkans for the next five centuries while occupying the castle. They left their architectural mark via the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Mosque which was built in 1479 over the remains of St. Stephen’s Cathedral (a newer version St. Stephen’s Cathedral was built in 1867 in Shodker city centre).
Today, however, the proud Albanian eagle rightfully rises high from the castle.
The diverse architectural styles and elements are a testament to the ever-evolving history of the area. Its name, Rozafa, derives from a local legend of sacrifice and endurance that I will delve into next.
The legend of Rozafa
According to local legend, three brothers set about building the castle only for it to collapse repeatedly at night. At a loss, they were advised by a ‘wise old man’ to sacrifice one of their wives – the reason being that having a woman buried within the walls would prevent the castle from falling again. (Yep, makes total sense I know!).
Rozafa, the wife of the youngest of the three brothers, was sealed to such a fate. She accepted her fate on the condition that her right breast, arm, and leg remain outside the wall to care for her newborn son.
When you wall me in, leave a hole for my right eye, for my right hand, for my right foot and for my right breast. I have a small son. When he starts to cry, I will cheer him up with my right eye, I will comfort him with my right hand, I will rock him to sleep with my right foot and wean him with my right breast. Let my breast turn to stone and the castle flourish. May my son become a great hero, ruler of the world.
This legend symbolizes the theme of sacrifice for the greater good, imbuing the castle with a sense of poignant history and folklore.
Exploring the grounds
The grounds are extensive, featuring incredible ruins of various buildings such as warehouses, water cisterns, prisons and residential quarters.
What makes visiting Rozafa Castle particularly fun is the fact that it is hardly regulated. This means you can climb onto the walls, walk on the ruins and glide in every nook and cranny. Saying all this, be sure to practise common sense safety!
More than anything, the best part of the castle are the photogenic views over the city with a mountain range as a backdrop. On the one side you see the lake Skadar, on the other farmlands and the meandering three rivers Buna, Drin, and Kiri.
Visit the museum
Located within the fortress, is the Museum of Rozafa Castle, that houses artefacts and exhibits detailing the history of the castle and the broader region.
It’s relatively small, and won’t take you more than 10-15 minutes to read all the displays relating to the history of the castle and the region. The most captivating exhibit depicts the legend of Rozafa and her baby, symbolising the enduring story of sacrifice associated with the castle.
Getting to Rozafa Castle
Getting to Rozafa Castle is straightforward. I took a taxi directly to the castle entrance, taking less than 10 minutes’ drive from the city centre.
You can also walk the 3-km distance from the city centre. It will take approximately 30-40 minutes due to the final uphill stretch on a cobblestone path. If you’re driving it’s worth noting that there is only a small car park. If there isn’t a free parking space you’ll have to find one further down the entrance and walk the remaining journey uphill. The glorious views along the way will certainly nudge you forward!
Opening times & entrance fee
There is a small entrance fee of 400 lek (approximately £3). The castle is open everyday all year round. During summer the castle is opened from 9am – 8.30pm and during off peak seasons it is generally opened from 8am – 4pm.
Be sure to wear comfortable shoes as the terrain inside the castle is uneven, with many steps and rocky paths. It’s also a great place for a picnic so bring some snacks and liquids, alternatively, there is a cafe with WC facilities within the castle.
Parting thoughts
Visiting Rozafa Castle is a journey through time, offering a dramatic glimpse into the historical and cultural heritage of Shkoder. The combination of stunning views, ancient ruins, and legendary tales makes it a must-see destination for anyone travelling to Albania.
