In the cold depths of winter, I wanted to feel the warm sun against my face so badly, and with few places in Europe being able to guarantee that, I turned to Marrakech, otherwise poetically known as Morocco’s ‘Red City’ or the ‘Daughter of the Desert’.
Why you should go to Marrakech
Only a 3-hour flight away from the UK, Marrakech is perfect if you don’t have much time, but still want to experience those ‘far-flung’ vibes.
It’s hard to believe such a big and energetic city exists on the edge of the Sahara Desert, complete with pink palaces, beautifully crafted riads, and rose-coloured walls framed by the snow-capped peaks of the Atlas Mountains.
Marrakech is an experiential destination that wows and delights the senses. A trip to Morocco’s capital city is packed with culture, tradition, natural beauty and a vast number of attractions to keep visitors entertained.
If you have more time at your disposal, I also personally recommend visiting the ancient capital of Fes and Chefchaouen, also known as the ‘Blue Pearl of Morocco’.
Where to stay in Marrakech
Stay in a Moroccan riad in the Medina (Old Town) for a true Moroccan experience. Riads are traditional Moroccan houses that offer good prices and hospitable service. In my opinion the new part of town is less interesting and less atmospheric – home to more generic chain hotels and shops. It’s ok if all you want to do is sunbathe by a pool, but then why go to Marrakech? It would be a shame to go to Marrakech without experiencing what makes it special.
We had a great experience staying at Dar al Sultan which is a beautiful riad in the old part of the city so you’re a close walk to the souks and other places of interest. It’s super romantic, every last detail has been attended to, both in terms of hospitality and presentation of all the rooms.
However, we did splurge a bit staying here, so you can compare prices with other hotels in Marrakech.
Best time to go to Marrakech
Spring (March to May)
Weather: Spring is one of the best times to visit Marrakech, with daytime temperatures ranging from 20°C to 25°C. Evenings can be cooler, so a light jacket or sweater is recommended.
Autumn (September to November)
Weather: Autumn is another excellent time to visit, with temperatures similar to those in spring, ranging from 22°C to 28°C. The weather remains pleasant, making it ideal for sightseeing.
Winter (November to February)
Weather: I’v visited Morocco in January and February and both times the weather was surprisingly lovely and warm but not overly hot. It’s also the least busiest time to travel which is an added bonus.
Note: Summer can be very hot so I’d avoid travelling then if you don’t handle heat very well.
Time your visit with the Marrakech Biennale
We planned our trip to coincide with the Marrakech Biennale, a festival dedicated to contemporary Visual Art, Literature and Film.
We could either pay for individual days, or for the entire 5 days which enabled access to performances, talks and screenings. Since we only wanted to attend a select amount of performances we decided to pay per day.
We got the chance to attend talks by the highly acclaimed author, Ben Okri discussing his favourite poem; the hugely charismatic and hilarious journalist Jane Bussman, who pointed out the bullshit of mass Media; and listened to comedian Ruby Wax take on the stigma of Schizophrenia.
Best things to do in Marrakech
1. The souks and shopping
Be warned, when you’re walking around the souks: it’s so easy to part with your money because EVERYTHING IS BEAUTIFUL. Seriously, I was like a magpie eyeing up everything that glitters.
Note that when it comes to paying for things, bartering is customary but ensure you keep it friendly and fair on both sides. Compared to other cities in Morocco I found that prices generally start a lot higher, so be smart not to agree with the first price that’s quoted to you.
2. Soak up the atmosphere of Jemaa el-Fna
The heart of Marrakech, this bustling square is a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and smells. By day, it hosts food stalls, snake charmers, and street performers. At night, it transforms into a lively open-air restaurant with countless food vendors.
If you’re in Marrakech for a few nights, at least one evening should be trying the local cuisine available at the sit-down stalls in Jemaa el-Fna. My advice is the follow the fragrance that speaks to you!
Read more: Marrakech’s Main Square – Jemaa el-Fna
3. Relax at Majorelle Garden
Created by the French painter Jacques Majorelle, and later owned by Yves Saint Laurent, this botanical garden bursts with colour and more types of cacti than you can count on multiple pairs of hands.
It also features an array of exotic plants, fountains, and has a stunning indigo blue art deco house as its centrepiece. Needless to say, if you’re also looking for photogenic places, this place is not to be missed.
4. Koutoubia Mosque
Koutoubia is the largest mosque in Marrakech and a masterpiece of Almohad architecture. Its impressive minaret, which stands 70 meters tall, is a city landmark. Although Non-Muslims cannot enter, the exterior itself is an exceptional sight, so too are the surrounding gardens.
Tip: On Fridays the doors are open for prayer so you might get a peek inside!
5. Menara Gardens and Pavilion
If you’re looking to escape the crowds to somewhere less touristy, Menara Gardens offers a space to relax and soak up a slower pace.
To get there you walk from the centre through olive trees in a peaceful setting you’ll find a reservoir for a quiet spot of relaxation.
Make sure you head inside the pavilion – the ceiling is stunning and entrance fee is small. While it’s not as photogenic as Majorelle, and it doesn’t have the same level of wow factor, I appreciated how ‘untouristy’ this place felt.
6. Day trip to the Atlas Mountains
First of all, the road from Marrakech to the Atlas Mountains offers glorious, mountainous scenery. It’s worth the trip out just for the journey.
The Atlas Mountains are beautiful, and a day trip allows you to experience the intensity of the city with the tranquility of nature. The red city against snow topped-mountains.
Treks in the Atlas Mountains
There are several routes and treks you can do depending on how adventurous you’re feeling.
We parked up in Imlil and hiked to the traditional Berber village of Aroumd. The trail is moderate and takes about 1-1.5 hours each way. Along the way we enjoyed the beautiful views of terraced fields, walnut groves, and snow-capped peaks. Since we set off late we settled with this short hike and spent the rest of the time pottering around Imlil and Around.
If you’ve still got a lot of fuel in your tank you can continue your hike to Sidi Chamharouch, a pilgrimage site for locals. Here, you can see a small shrine, a lovely waterfall and more panoramic views of the surrounding mountains.
👉 Recommended: Knowing what I know now, I should have spent at least a night in the mountains. A day-trip was great, but overnight would have been even better I’m sure. If you have the time you should definitely look into that option. And if you’re feeling particularly adventurous, you could hike Mount Toukbal, the country’s highest peak!
Dress code
Marrakech really is a ‘go with the flow’ kind of place but like any Muslim country you should dress accordingly. I did see lots of people wearing skimpy clothes, but in general, I think it’s more respectful to wear comfort loose clothing – flow dresses or linen trousers are great. Plus these clothes are more breathable and therefore more comfort if you’re travelling during the hot season,
Things I didn’t like about Marrakech
Okay, while I love a lot of things about Marrakech, I did find aspects quite exhausting. I’ll go into a bit more detail.
Travelling as a woman in Marrakech: Despite being with my boyfriend, on a couple of occasions I did received unwanted comments and experienced some situations that made me feel uncomfortable. This wasn’t the case in Fes, Tangier or Chefchaouen which I found to be more relaxed, particularly the locals.
If you’re thinking about travelling solo as a female you might want to bear this in mind. Note, this was my personal experience, and of course not everyone will experience this. I’m quick to add that overall people are very welcoming, but my experience was marred by a few encounters.
Wildly high prices: While I usually quite enjoy bartering, and I’m conscious on sealing a deal where both parties leave feeling happy, I grew tired of the wildly high prices to the question ‘how much is this?’. I know bartering is an inherent part of buying items inside the souks, but I hate feeling like someone is trying to take advantage of me. Again, I found this occurring much more in Marrakech than other places in Morocco. I guess the capital is much more touristy so it’s to be expected to an extent.
Fake guides: If someone approaches you and offers to show you parts of the city, politely decline. I know this sounds really cynical but money will be expected in return, and I say this from experience.
On quite a few occasions people tried to scam and trick me so you could say this is a case of once bitten twice shy. This disappointed me a lot because I enjoyed Marrakech but this aspect did tarnish my experience of the city, and I wouldn’t feel honest if I didn’t mention this.
Overall, if you keep these things in mind, you should have a wonderful and memorable time exploring the ‘Red City’.
