If you’re looking for a true nature and hiking experience in Jordan, Dana Biosphere Reserve is the place to lace up your boots.
Perched between mountain and desert, this ancient biosphere reserve feels like it’s been here since the beginning of time, carved slowly by wind and silence. It’s a place you go when you want to get away and retreat in nature.
There are no crowds, no buses, no taxi drivers vying for your attention. You come here to walk. To hear the crackle of dry grass and the pounding of your own boots on dust and rock.
Initially, I wasn’t too sure about incorporating Dana Biosphere Reserve into my Jordan itinerary. It’s not written a whole lot about and I wasn’t sure if that might reflect to some extent that it wasn’t worth visiting.
Thankfully, any doubts I might have had were squashed as soon as I entered the quiet village offering views that stretch on forever across valleys that seem to hold a thousand shades of red and gold. Imagine having the Grand Canyon at your feet without barely a single soul around for what feels like hundreds of miles.
In Dana, you walk through layers of time. Bronze Age terraces. Nabataean trade routes. Ottoman paths still used by Bedouin herders today. You share tea with people whose families have read the wind and rock for generations.
Why is Dana Biosphere Reserve special for nature?
The Dana Biosphere Reserve was established in 1989 by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN) – Jordan’s leading environmental organisation.
It covers 320 square kilometres, making it the largest reserve in the country. It protects over 700 plant species and 200 animal species, including endangered ones like the Arabian wolf, Nubian ibex, and spiny-tailed lizard.
I heard the howling and saw the silhouette of a wolf standing above a canyon. Okay I can’t say for sure whether it was a wolf or a dog – but I like to think I was at some point within distance of a Syrian wolf. I guess I’ll never know…
Because the reserve stretches from cool highlands to arid desert (a 1,600-metre drop in elevation), it includes four distinct biogeographical zones – Mediterranean, Irano-Turanian, Saharo-Arabian, and Sudanian. That’s a huge range of habitats in one place.
Among the dry canyons and dusty paths, I also spotted some beautiful flora and fauna. Look out for the eternally pink Oleander, the Anemone coronaria with their usually long stem and delicate white petals, and the Black Iris, Jordan’s national flower.
A bit about the geology
Around 500–600 million years ago, much of Dana was covered by a shallow sea. Over time, layers of sandstone, limestone, and shale settled at the bottom – each stratum recording a different era of Earth’s history.
When tectonic forces later split the Earth’s crust, forming the Great Rift Valley, those layers were tilted, fractured, and lifted to form the steep escarpments and plunging valleys you see today.
Dana lies right on this geological fault line, where the Arabian plate is slowly moving away from Africa – a process that continues to shape the landscape even now.
When you go hiking around Dana you will see all kinds of surreal shapes and patterns in the landscape. In this case, the geological processes really are nature’s own artists and architects.
How to get there
Dana is located in central-western Jordan and is surprisingly straight forward to reach. There is public transport to nearby towns but the reserve is best reached by car, taxi, or as part of a small-group tour. From Amman expect about 2.5–3.5 hours by car; from Petra around 1.5 hours, making Dana an excellent stop either before or after visiting the famous archaeological site – a New Seven Wonder of the World.
My boyfriend and I took the Desert Highway (Route 15) because it’s the most direct and efficient way to get from A to B. However, it’s not the most scenic so alternatively you can take King’s Highway which offers a bit more to see from the road.
Parking is available near Dana Village, where most guesthouses and hiking trailheads begin. The roads get narrower and steeper near the village, so drive carefully — and try to arrive before dark.
The best hiking routes in Dana Biosphere Reserve
Wadi Ghuweir
Distance: 15 km
Approx 5 – 6 hours
If you only do one hiking route in Dana Biosphere Reserve make it the Wadi Ghuweir trail. I’ve hiked all around the world, and this truly is one of the best day hikes I’ve ever had the immense joy of doing in my whole life. It’s jammed packed with adventure – starting from beginning to end.
The landscape is insane. I know the word ‘otherworldly’ often feels overused, but that’s the word I’d describe for it. There’s so much to see, I could do this hiking route 20 times and still spot new and different things each time. The geology is seriously on another level: massive boulders, siqs and colourful patterns in the rock. You can really see how the whole landscape has been shaped by millions of years.
Doing this hike involves wading through a lot of water and climbing up boulders so dress accordingly. Waterproof hiking sandals and boots will make your life easier. While I didn’t take a guide, now that I’ve done it, I would probably recommend one!
To do this hike, you’ll either need to finish or start in Feynan. There are a few accommodation options so you’ll need to book in advance. The most well-known one is Feynman Ecolodge. However, it proved a bit too pricey for me so I opted to stay in Feynan Wild Camp.
Wadi Dana Trek
Distance: 16 km
Approx 5 – 6 hours
This is the signature trek starting from Dana village. It’s a long descent through wild canyons and open desert so bring plenty of water. You hike down into the canyon so this trail is mostly downhill – particularly for the first 1h 30 mins or so.
There are some open sections but as long as you keep moving straight forward you shouldn’t get lost. You see some fabulous rock formations, and definitely a few shepherds taking their goats out for a graze. I spotted two friendly bedouins taking a rest break under a tree and they kindly invited me over for some freshly brewed tea. One of the guys spoke excellent English and spoke very fondly about his life in Dana and his love for the nature.
Toward the end of the hike the path flattens out and you’ll spot some bedouin tents to indicate that you are getting closer to Feynan Ecolodge. I carried on walking for around another 50 minutes to reach Feynan Wild Camp where I was greeted with a big and much appreciated dinner!
Combining the Wadi Ghuweir and the Wadi Dana Trek
Recommended: You can combine the Dana to Feynan Trek and the Wadi Ghuweir across two days. It’s long but definitely worth it! In order to combine them you’ll need to do one of them in reverse.
For example, I did the Dana to Feynan hike, then I slept over in Feynan, and then the following day I completed the Wadi Ghuweir hike by starting it at the end and finishing where most people begin the hike.
Pack an overnight bag if you decided to do this 2-day trek.
The Feathers Canyon – Shaq ar-Reesh hike
Distance: 7km
Approx 3 hours
A shorter circular hike if you are strapped of time or you are unable to stay in Feynan. Beautiful hike with lots of panoramas. It’s generally easy so no guide necessary but I definitely recommend downloading All Trails or Maps.me. The rocks have been eroded in a way that gives them a smooth appearance, hence the name Feathers Canyon.
If you don’t have your own transport, you’ll need to arrange with your hotel/accommodation a short taxi ride to the beginning of the trail. There’s a small car park near the start of the hike.
What should I pack for my visit to Dana Biosphere Reserve?
- Decent footwear is a must. I packed some light hiking boots and also a pair of waterproof hiking sandals. Both came in handy for the Wadi Ghuweir Trek. I’d also pack a dry-bag if you are doing the hike. You can protect your phone or camera when you need to wade through the water. At some points the water came up to my chest!
- Use good sun protection and don’t forget to reapply.
- Bring plenty of of water for any hike. You won’t find any shops once you leave Dana Village so please bare this in mind. For a full day of hiking I recommend bringing at least 2 litres of water per person. If you have a camelbak or water bladder even better. I personally always use a water bladder because they take up so little space in comparison to water bottles.
- A day backpack or one that will fit enough stuff in for an overnight stay if you sleep in Feynan.
- Wear natural fibres like cotton or linen or quick-dry material clothing.
- Pack shorts. I wore some that came to my knees, but to be honest, when you’re hiking you don’t have to worry about covering up too much in Jordan. It’s a Muslim country but the locals are so easy-going. Covering knees and shoulders you’re hiking isn’t so practical when you’re not adapted to the heat.
Staying in Dana Village
Dana Village is small – a mere cluster of honey-coloured stone houses clinging to the edge of a cliff. You come for the views but stay for the hiking. Almost everywhere offers a panorama across the vast canyon that drops away into infinity.
The village dates back to the 15th century, though people have lived in this valley for much longer – shepherds, traders, and farmers who worked the terraced hillsides and followed the seasons.
When Dana Biosphere Reserve was established in 1989 a few people saw the potential for tourism. There are now a handful of tiny cafés and eco-guesthouses opened to invite people to explore the spectacular nature.
Dana Guesthouse – for comfort
Since my boyfriend and I had a car, we prioritised accommodation with a car park and found Dana Guesthouse. It’s very a spacious hotel but I felt it lacked a bit of soul and personality. However, in terms of comfort it really delivers. The rooms are super large and are equipped with comfy beds and a very hot shower with great pressure. The real strength of this place are the views. It’s situated at the highest vantage point in the village so the views are exceptional.
Dana Tower – for charm
If you’re looking for somewhere with more character and arguably more soul I think Dana Tower Hotel might be the one for you. Due to its higgledy-piggledy layout it feels more intimate and cosy. It’s also more affordable so great for a more budget-friendly option. I swung by for a coffee and immediately felt the charm of this place.
Final thoughts
If you love hiking and nature, I would definitely factor Dana Biosphere Reserve into your Jordan itinerary. The landscape is truly diverse and it offers some of the best hiking routes in the country. Lastly, it’s more unexplored compared to other places in Jordan so if you prefer being off-the-beaten track, it’s the perfect place to visit.
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