The ancient site of Dambulla Cave Temple is one of the most enchanting places across the whole of Sri Lanka.
Ancient sites have a beautiful way of connecting you to the past. On a journey through Sri Lanka, you don’t have to look far across the landscape to find ancient rocks etched with secrets and stories from times long gone.
These landmarks that have withstood thousands of years act like a time capsule, revealing narratives and events that helped shape the traditions and practises that still influence the country today.
In Sri Lanka, such sites include Sigiriya Rock, Polonnaruwa, and Dambulla Cave Temple. So well preserved are these places, they have the unique ability to transport you to a bygone era while offering a timeless connection to the cultural and religious roots of the island.
Since I’ve already written about Sigiriya Rock, I’d like to turn your attention to the special pilgrimage site of Dambulla Cave Temple.
Origins of Dambulla Cave Temple
Carved into the colossal embrace of a 160m high granite rock, the Dambulla Cave Temple in Matale traces its origins back over 2,000 years.
Before it became a Buddhist temple complex, the cave had already cemented its place in Sri Lankan history. King Valagamba (also referred to as Valagambahu) was said to have taken refuge inside the cave during a 15-year period of exile, during which time the Chola dynasty from southern India invaded Sri Lanka.
The Cholas launched military campaigns, capturing the island’s capital, (which was Anuradhapura at the time), which forced King Valagamba into exile.
A king’s retreat
The caves of Dambulla provided a natural hiding place for the king during his period of exile. Seeking refuge in these caves allowed him to evade his enemies and strategise for the eventual reclamation of his kingdom.
After he managed to regain the throne, he converted the caves into a magnificent temple complex through stone carvings to express his gratitude, and showcase his commitment to Buddhism and his appreciation for the sites that played a role in his journey back to power.
Further paintings and frescos were made by later kings, most prominently King Nissanka Malla, who had the caves’ interiors gilded, earning the place the name Ran Giri (Golden Rock).
Over the centuries, it evolved into a spiritual sanctuary and an important place of worship.
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Since 1992 the Dambulla Cave Temple has been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, . This can be attributed to its historical associations and also for its remarkable collection of cave temples. Each cave is adorned with intricate murals and statues, showcasing the artistic and religious heritage of Sri Lanka.
After walking up a few hundred stone steps you will finally enter the Dambulla complex, an unusual sight by any standards, a huge rock with white painted colonnades, and a corridor, leading to the main five caves.
Exploring the caves
Cave 1 | Cave of the Divine King
The first cave also known as Devaraja lena, is the most famous of the caves. It houses a 14-metre long reclining Buddha statue, crafted out of solid rock and covered in gold leaf. The serene expression on the Buddha’s face emanates a sense of tranquility that has captivated visitors for centuries. You will notice that paintings in this cave are faded due to the lighting of oil lamps and incenses by the worshippers of earlier times.
Cave 2 | Cave of the Great Kings
The Cave of Great Kings, also known as Maharaja Viharaya, is truly a vision to behold, and this cave alone is worth the trip to Dambulla. It features 53 statues of seated Buddhas along with the statues of two Hindu gods, Vishnu and Saman.
The walls of this cave are adorned with vivid frescoes depicting various scenes from Buddhist mythology. The artistry is truly inspiring. Make sure to look up at the ceiling where you’ll find over 1500 paintings of Buddha in breath-taking colours and detail. Furthermore, the colours in this cave are more vivid.
Caves 3, 4, and 5
Collectively known as the Maha Aluth Viharaya, offer further glimpses into the artistic excellence of the ancient craftsmen. These caves house a myriad of Buddha statues, including a 7-meter tall standing Buddha statue, as well as intricate paintings portraying the life and teachings of the Buddha.
My reflections
Sri Lanka is an immersive country, where you will witness cultural practises and religious traditions spanning the landscape.
A visit to Dambulla Cave Temple transcends the realms of conventional tourism. While I can’t claim it to be a hidden attraction, nor is it a tourist trap.
Many local Sri Lankans make the pilgrimage up the time-worn steps to Dambulla to pray. It is a privilege to see such devotion still taking place in the modern world, as much as it is a privilege to see such well-preserved rock art dating back thousands of years.
How to get to Dambulla Cave Temple
I visited from Sigirya by Tuktuk. It is only about 20 kilometres (12 miles) away from Dambulla. You could also get a taxi to drop you off at the car park if you prefer.
If you happen to be travelling from Sigiriya to Kandy it would make logistical sense to visit Dambulla en route since it follows the road down to Kandy.
Practical tips
- Adhere to modest clothing norms, covering shoulders and knees, as a gesture of respect when entering these sacred sanctuaries.
- Opt for early morning or late afternoon visits to avoid the midday heat.
- Before you enter the caves you must take off your shoes. There is an area to leave your shoes in front of the complex. I recommend bringing a pair of socks to avoid scotching your feet on the hot ground during high temperatures.
Where to stay
Sigiriya is easily the best base from which to visit Dambulla. I recommend staying here as opposed to spending a night in Dambulla as I don’t think it requires it unless you have a lot of time to spare.
I spent two nights in Sigiriya staying at Otunna Guest House. This charming eco-lodge offers wonderful hospitality, delicious home-cooked Sri Lakan food, and a quiet location set within a beautiful garden.