Leather is synonymous with Morocco. It possesses a long history of originality and craftsmanship, and plays an important role in the country’s economy and cultural identity.
In the former ancient capital of Fes, within the crumbling medina walls, you will be able to learn about the traditional leather-making process at Chouara Tannery. It is the largest tannery in the city, and from above in the balconies you can witness how these age-old techniques are employed in this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Navigating the old medina
Chouara Tannery is one of most iconic attractions in Fes, despite this, it can be tricky to find. Navigating your way through the maze of the old medina is like trying to complete a Rubik’s cube. It’s not an easy task. This feels especially true if you’re actually on a mission to find a particular place.
On the day my brother and I arrived, we tried to get there on our own. We turned right and left, and up and down, and eventually ended up on the same street we began. We kept seeing signs for Chouara Tannery, and yet we felt like we were going round in circles. Accepting defeat we decided to return the following day armed a local guide.
This turned out to be a great idea. Not only did we see the tannery, our guide took us to many other places of cultural and historical interest to enrich our experience. With the addition of local expertise, we gained a deeper understanding of the city’s long traditions and artistic practices.
At Chouara Tannery
Upon meeting our guide, we followed her steps as she twisted and turned through the medina, passing hundreds of stalls, each specialising in a variety of goods, from carpets to sequined slippers and hand-carved wooden boxes to intricate silverwear and piles of dried fruits and nuts. She knew the place like the back of her hand, or at least it seemed that way. In reality, she admitted that she still gets lost occasionally, after all it’s the largest medina in the world.
Eventually, we arrived at a leather shop, one of several to have a terrace on the top floor that overlooks the tannery. Before we made our way up the steps, an employee handed us each a sprig of mint leaves and warned, ‘You’ll need this for the smell’ and then he started laughing.
As we stepped onto the terrance, the smell was the first thing that hit me. It stunk, the guy wasn’t kidding! I rammed the mint up my nostrils before taking another breath.
However, putting the smell aside, the sight before me was incredible. The stone vessels below looked less like a factory floor and more like an artist’s watercolour palette on a huge scale. The liquid colours ranged from blood red to white, with a little of everything in between.
Each vessel is filled with dye or white liquids and there’s enough room in them to fit in at least one fully grown man and tens of cow hide. But looking from above, I still don’t think you can fully appreciate the scale of the tannery unless you’re on the ground standing next to the vessel, in fact, each one could probably fit in two or three men if they needed to work quickly together on a single hide. It can’t be an easy job.
How the leather is made
Hides of cows, sheep, goats, and camels are processed by first soaking it in the white liquids. This liquid is made from a mixture of substances, including – wait for it – cow urine and pigeon poo. This explains why the tannery smells so pungent! But these pongy ingredients play a vital role in softening the leather.
This process takes two to three days and prepares the hides to readily absorb the dyes. They are then soaked in the dyeing solutions, which use natural colorants such as poppy for red, indigo for blue, and henna for orange.
The men stand thigh-high in the dye and agitate the hides like human washing machines. Some of the tanners wear shorts, others wear waterproof overalls similar to fishermen.
When the desired colours have been achieved the skins are pulled out of the pits, trimmed, and laid out to dry on surrounding rooftops. Afterwards, they are being moved inside, then cut and sewn into the desired goods you see all over Morocco.
Guided tours in and around Fez
Where to stay in Fez
Staying in the heart of the Medina (Old Town) allows you to immerse yourself in Fez’s ancient charm. Many riads, traditional Moroccan guesthouses with inner courtyards, are located here, offering an authentic experience. You’ll be within walking distance of historic sites like the Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque located within the bustling souks.
If you’re looking for somewhere to little bit quieter and calm, you could also stay just outside the Medina. Places such as Batha and Bab Boujloud are close to the medina but offer a slightly quieter atmosphere. You’ll find a mix of riads and mid-range hotels, providing easy access to both the historical and new sites.
My recommendation: I stayed at Dar Fes Medina Ziat located within the walled Medina (Old Town), about 10-minutes walk from the main souk. The property is really beautiful, showcasing a stunning array of lovely mosaic tiles and woodwork. I couldn’t fault the hospitality either. Every time I had a question, or wanted anything they were always happy to help.
