The Capuchin Crypt in Rome, a hauntingly beautiful site beneath the Church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini, is one of the city’s most unique and intriguing destinations.
Located near the busy streets of Via Veneto, this crypt is famous for its unique decorations made entirely from human bones, creating an atmosphere that is equal parts eerie and reverent.
I think many of us have a morbid fascination with death. Perhaps most interesting to me are the rituals and traditions that surround death, and how they differ around the world and throughout history.
If we go back to the times of Ancient Egypt, we can see through the extraordinary process of mummification that the notion of afterlife has been a question that has plagued society.
It’s believed by many that life continues after death in one form or another. The Capuchin Friars who lived in Rome were no exception. Those who have died are gone but not forgotten.
A Brief History of Capuchin Crypt
The Capuchin Friars belong to a Roman Catholic religious order of brothers and priests, inspired by the ideals of St. Francis. Such ideals place emphasis on living as simply as possible whilst possessing a passion for peace, honesty, and charity.
This all seems normal enough which is why Capuchin Crypt – aka the Bone Cemetery – appears even more surprising and rather bizarre. Beneath the church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini in Rome is Capuchin Crypt, a small space of six chamber like chapels containing nearly 4000 bodies belonging to the Capuchin Friars.
Bone collecting, to put it simply, seems like an odd tradition but was seen as an act of respect. Christianity shows immense devotion to the deceased, but there was another, more specific reason for preserving the dead in this way.
The friars were convinced that among these bones were those of the founders of the Order, the first generation of Capuchins, and among them were many holy men.
Inside Capuchin Crypt
As soon as I entered the Crypt I felt something I didn’t expect to feel or experience. While it was haunting, it was also quite pretty, even beautiful.
I know, right, how the hell can a place filled with skulls, kneecaps, and collarbones look pretty? It’s a good question. The answer can be found in the arrangements of the bones.
It was like a mosaic of bones. Ribs and vertebrae have been painstakingly arranged into floral designs, and pelvic bones have been positioned into the shape of a heart.
Everything is intricately and delicately formed, it’s a vision of artistry that puts a new spin to the term ‘interior design’.
I’m sure describing this place as ‘pretty’ probably doesn’t tie in with the general consensus. On the other hand, it’s also very haunting, spooky, and creepy. Everything you expect it to be.
For me, personally, I found the creepiest elements the mummified bodies. They are all dressed in robes to give them a life-like quality. Maybe I’ve been watching too many horror movies, but I half expected them to rise up from the dead and chase me down the rooms. I wouldn’t like to get trapped inside this place, that’s for sure!
The place is spilt up into six small crypts, or chambers, each possessing their own theme.
The chambers
- Crypt of the Resurrection
- The Mass Chapel
- Crypt of Skulls
- The Crypt of Pelvises
- Crypt of the Leg Bones and Thigh Bones
- Crypt of the Three Skeletons
Interestingly, the Crypt of the Three Skeletons is the only section where a human skeleton can be seen in its entirety.
These three skeletons also happen to be those of very young children. The impact of this suggesting that death has no favourite age. While I tried to ponder over this, I was half distracted by the peculiarity of it all. A strange sight, seeing them precariously resting on a shelf of hip bones. One of the skeletons is said to be that of an infant from the Barberini family, a Noble family who rose to prominence in 17th Century Rome.
There are also many other motifs made of skeletal remains, such as scales and clocks, representing the limited time we have on earth.
A sign in one of the alcoves spells, “What you are now, we once were; what we are now, you shall be.” As I left the crypt, those words stayed with me for the rest of the day. Haunting.
Read more about crypts and catacombs from around the world:
→ Sedlec Ossuary: The ‘Church Of Bones’ In Kutna Hora Near Prague
→ The Creepy Catacombs of Paris.
General Information
Nearest Metro: Two minutes walk from Barberini
Admission fee: €7
Opening hours: Fri – Wed. 9am – 2pm and 3pm – 6pm
Accommodation: → Search for hotels in Rome
Book tours in Rome: GetYourGuide
For more unusual things to do in the city, read more → 8 Quirky Things to do in Rome.
15 responses
Rome is one of my favorite cities, but this place scares me :-O
Haha this post should have been posted 10 days ago to coincide with Halloween. It’s not for the easily spooked!
Scary 🙂
Definitely not somewhere you’d want to spend the night!
The collection of bones and skulls is amazing in and of itself, Shing! But, to arrange and place them in such perfect synchronicity is absolutely mind-boggling! Very fun (albeit spooky) post to read 🙂
It really is a vision to behold Mike! The intricate design is probably what makes the crypt appear most bizarre because it’s beautifully macabre.
I’m so glad you bent the rules and took pictures 🙂 I know what you mean by calling it “pretty”. I felt the same way at Sedlec Ossuary. This one seems a bit more creepy with the skeleton monks. Such great arrangements too.
The arrangements were really startling! This place is for anyone with a fascination towards the morbid and macabre isn’t it Mary? And clearly you’re one of them 😉
I hope to make it to Sedlec Ossuary in the near future, I think it’s quite a lot larger than Capuchin Crypt.
I thought I was the only one who thought this place was beautiful
It didn’t scare me but it was a little chilling and I felt like a sick person when I thought “wow, this is pretty” but it honestly was
Haha, I have to admit, when I felt myself smiling an image of Ed Gein popped into my mind! :s
I don’t find this place scary at all – it was one of the most fascinating places to visit when I was in Rome in May (I did a joint excursion with the catacombs and San Clemente). For the people whose bones are displayed, which includes two Barberini princesses who died in childhood, it was an honour to be displayed like this. As the sign says:
WHAT YOU ARE NOW WE USED TO BE; WHAT WE ARE NOW YOU WILL BE.
Which is true!
I think Western society has a real problem dealing with death, which is the natural end of life and nothing to be scared of. Skeletons may well be superficially scary BUT when one looks at these displays as a statement of respect for the dead, and one packed with meaning, then this is a form of art and devotion – and one with a message – i.e. that life is fleeting so make the most of it.
This has nothing to do with Hallowe’en, and nor should it (though worth pointing out that Hallowe’en comes from an ancient British festival at least 5000 years old which the Church appropriated (like Christmas then).
If I return to Rome, I shall definitely pay another visit.
I agree. We went to the Ossuary when we went to Rome on a Pilgrimage. It was strangely beautiful, and, gave us a lot to think about.
I have seen something similar in Portugal. It was in a small chapel built next to a church. Initially it was a cemetery and the church wanted to expand so they dug up and saved the bones, expanded the church, built the chapel and decorated the interior with the bones. It was their way of honoring the dead.
“What you are now, we once were; what we are now, you shall be.” I love this ‘memento mori’ – reminds me of the returning Roman emperors when they came back for their triumphs, they aways had a slave in the back of the chariot whispering in their ears – ‘remember you are mortal and you will one day die!’…..I’ve been to this crypt too, but was shepherded quite closely by a security guard and I couldn’t sneak photos. Wonderfully creepy though!
Is it also open on the weekends? And where can you purchase tickets? The tickets online are sooo expensive (60-70€)