I must confess, I’d never heard of Albi until I booked my trip to Toulouse. Thankfully, my boyfriend’s family pointed us in the right direction by announcing that a day trip to Albi, just an hour away from Toulouse, had to be included in our itinerary.
While I’m sure any Francophile reading this will be aghast and flabbergasted at my feeble knowledge of France, I’ll also bet that some of you haven’t heard of Albi until now either, despite it being a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
More than anything else, I think this speaks to the wealth of attractions in France. If Albi were to be scooped up and plonked inside any other country, like England for example, it would be on the country’s list of must-visit places.
For France, however, where beauty and charm flows ubiquitously through the landscape, it’s taken almost for granted – so to speak – that places like Albi simply exist. I really feel that so much of the magic found in France takes place in these smaller cities and towns.
Why you should visit Albi
Tucked away in south-west France, Albi is nestled in the Tarn region, affectionately dubbed the ‘Tuscany of France’, for its rolling hills, quaint villages, rustic atmosphere and gastronomic delights.
All too often I read about places described as ‘hidden gems’, when in reality I don’t think they are, or at least not anymore, and enviably this leads to a bit of disappointment. This is not the case for Albi, which can still be described as such – though correct me if I’m wrong.
The thing I love most about Albi is that despite its deminutive size, you will find several big-hitter attractions mixed with quiet and peaceful areas, all of which create a cosy but enriching experience.
Around every corner, you’ll find medieval architecture, half-timbered houses and cobbled streets. It’s seriously gorgeous.
The two most popular attractions are the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum and the Cathedral of Saint Cecilia, the largest brick cathedral in the world. In addition is a breathtaking view of Palais de la Berbie and its perfectly pruned garden overlooking the Tarn River. This view alone is worth taking the trip out to Albi.
To help you make the most of your visit to Albi, I’ve put together this guide.
Getting to Albi from Toulouse by train
I caught the train from Toulouse and I’d encourage anyone to do the same. It’s super easy and the journey passes through some lovely countryside.
- Departure: Trains from Toulouse to Albi leave from Toulouse-Matabiau Station and depart roughly every 45 minutes (be sure to check times beforehand).
- Duration: The journey takes about 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes.
- Tickets: You can purchase tickets online through the Trainline or on arrival at the train station. Booking in advance is recommended if you want to secure the best price. The average price is around €5 one way.
The walk from the station to the centre of town takes under 10 minutes. You pass some interesting monuments including a statue of the Joan of Arc, and the Albi Grand Theatre, which architecturally speaking, is a work of art.
Cathedral of Saint Cecilia of Albi
The town’s skyline is dominated by the breathtaking Cathedral of Saint Cecilia of Albi, the largest brick cathedral in the world. Built between 1282 and 1480, this Gothic masterpiece stands as a testament to the town’s past religious fervor and architectural ambition.
The cathedral’s exterior, with its imposing red brick facade, stands out like a rugby player in a tutu – you can’t miss it.
However, it’s the interior that truly captivates, with an explosion of colour from intricate frescoes, ornate chapels, and the stunning Last Judgment mural that stretches across the nave and makes the consequences of disobeying the Church terrorifyingly clear.
A large part of the cathedral is free to enter, but to access the upstairs Treasury and the Great Choir room at ground-level cost €10 to enter. I would recommend paying the extra fee to learn more about the history of the town and the cathedral. Inside the Treasury you will discover an assortment of precious artefacts, including fragments of wood claiming to derive from of the True Cross.
One of the great cathedrals of the world that deserves a separate blog post. I can’t think of another that compares in both size and craftsmanship, other than Westminster Abbey in London, and technically it isn’t a cathedral.
Toulouse-Lautrec Museum
A short stroll from the cathedral lies the Palais de la Berbie, an ancient fortress now housing the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum.
Here, art lovers can immerse themselves in the world’s largest collection of works by Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Albi’s most famous son. Yep, despite the name he professionally went by, he was born in Albi.
The museum’s exhibits showcase the artist’s evolution from his early portraits to the iconic posters that immortalised the bohemian spirit of Montmartre.
The gardens of the Berbie Palace
They say the best things in life are free, and in Abli that means the Gardens of the Berbie Palace which are completely free to enter. To see this view, in all its glory during summer, is a sight I won’t be forgetting anytime soon.
The gardens are a stunning example of classical French garden design, meticulously crafted to complement the grandeur of the adjoining medieval fortress.
Originally the residence of the powerful bishops of Albi, the gardens extend majestically from the palace’s formidable stone walls, overlooking the serene Tarn River below. Symmetrically arranged parterres are adorned with vibrant floral displays, bordered by perfectly trimmed hedges that guide visitors through the heavenly landscape.
The contrast between the gardens’ manicured precision and the rustic charm of the riverbank below creates a captivating juxtaposition, making the Gardens of the Berbie Palace a must-visit for anyone seeking a moment of peace and beauty in Albi.
Cloisters of St.Salvi Church
Gain access to these beautiful cloisters up a stone stairway that branches off from Rue Sainte-Cecile. Keep your eyes peeled as it is tucked away like a hidden treasure alongside the ancient church of St. Salvi.
The site showcases a harmonious blend of Romanesque and Gothic architectural styles, reflecting the various stages of its construction over the centuries. Arranged around a peaceful garden courtyard, with each side featuring a series of graceful arches supported by elegantly carved columns.
Be sure to enter the church, the oldest in the city. Huge pillars and beautiful stained glass windows await inside. While it cannot compare to the cathedral, it’s lovely in its own right.
Riverbank stroll
For those seeking a tranquil retreat, the riverbanks of the Tarn provide a perfect setting for a leisurely stroll any time of the year or a boat tour in summer. The serene waters and lush landscapes create a picturesque backdrop for relaxing.
We walked part of the way, but had to turn back due to time restraints. If you’re up for it, you can, however, take in the scenery along the L’Echappée verte, a 6km round-trip hike that stretches along the Tarn and the Causses stream. Note that the hike includes a steam crossing over boulders so packing waterproof footwear is advisable – or unleash your inner child by going barefoot during this section.
Pont Vieux (Old Bridge)
If you’re pushed for time, the best short walk in Albi is to Pont Vieux, the ancient bridge that offers exceptional 360-degree views from all directions.
Be sure to cross over the bridge and onto the other side to behold the full view of Albi’s cathedral and Vieux Pont, characterised by its series of robust stone arches and peachy palette.
Constructed in the 11th century, this ancient stone bridge stands as one of the oldest bridges in France still in use today, a testament to the enduring craftsmanship of its builders.
Admire the quaint half-timber houses
Beyond its main architectural and artistic treasures, Albi offers a charming old town with narrow cobbled streets lined with half-timbered houses and quaint boutiques. I can’t tell you how much I love these buildings. For me, I always feel like I’ve been transported back in time.
Wander through Place du Vigan which on Sundays is filled with an outdoor market – a great place to pick up a souvenir or simply sit back to soak up the lively atmosphere.
The Food Market
Albi’s culinary scene is a delightful reflection of its regional heritage. Visitors can savour local specialties such as cassoulet, a hearty bean and meat stew or one of the numerous sweet pastries and buscuits.
Since I had already had my fair share of cassoulet in Toulouse, I wanted to soak up the atmosphere of the local indoor market and taste what was on offer – and it did not disappoint.
I suggest walking around the stalls to see what takes your fancy. You will find producers of local cheeses, ham and wine, and if your appetite demands more, a succulent steak with pomme frites will do the trick.
Steaks of such quality are hard to find anywhere in the world unless you’re willing to dig deep into your wallet, but the French don’t comprise on the accessibility of good quality of meat, and it’s particularly affordable at the local market.
Parting thoughts
It’s hard to believe that little more than a month ago, I didn’t know this place existed and now I’m waxing lyrical about it and urging anyone who listens to visit.
If my trip to Albi tells me anything, it’s that my favourite parts of France are probably found in the smaller cities and towns. I just love the leisurely pace of life and how much pleasure and beauty can be found simply by aimlessly wandering around.
Sometimes I’m bad at stopping to soak things in when I travel because I want to cram everything in, but I found myself stopping often to take in the small details. Though when the streets look as pretty as they do, and the rhythm of life moves slower, it makes you want to stop and simply be in the moment. You don’t feel like you’re on treadmill racing against time. It’s the perfect size for a day trip.
Finally, while I was just there for a day, I’m sure an overnight stay would enhance any experience of Albi, and the same is true for France at large. Take a look at Booking.com for accommodation options and availability.
If you’re thinking of visiting Albi, go for it.
