The side streets of Hackescher Markt
Hackescher Markt in Berlin, is a labyrinth of alleyways leading to all kinds of interesting things to see and do.
When I see an alleyway, it immediately presses my curiosity button. I start asking myself: What does it lead to? What will I see? What’s down there?
Arguably most exciting alleyway can be found on Rosenthaler Straße, by the side of Cinema Café called Haus Schwarzenberg. Walk through to the courtyard filled with street art and doors leading to exhibition spaces, cafes, bookshops and a curiosity called MonsterKabinett.
MonsterKabinett
MonsterKabinett is hard to explain. Though I’d describe it as a basement filled with bizarre ‘monsters’ made from machinery. Apart from a few dimly coloured lights it is otherwise set in the dark.
This assault to my senses added to the trippy spectacle. Honestly, I didn’t know what the hell I was looking at the whole time.
Well, that’s not completely true, I witnessed metal monsters that moved around squirting gas and making noises. I’m not exactly sure what it was trying to convey, but it felt like a weird dystopia where robots rule the world.
To see the monsters you have to go on a small group tour that lasts for about 20 minutes and costs 8 euros. It’s definitely pricey but the money goes towards the artists who create it so I didn’t feel ripped off. Instead, I left feeling dazed and confused which isn’t a bad thing every now and again.
Street art alley on Rosenthaler Straße
I’ve visited this alley on several occasions, and each time the art work has been different. For example, I’ve included two photos of the same wall – one from 2011 and another from 2013.
I visited again in 2015 and 2017 and the walls were completely different on those occasions too. If anyone knows whether they get changed on a yearly basis or just on random occasions then let me know. I’d be intrigued to find out. Either way, I get a feeling there’s always something new and different to see among the colourful corners of these walls.
>> Related: Street Art Guide of Shoreditch in London
During the summer a bohemian atmosphere fills the courtyard as musicians perform to people drinking and talking amongst themselves.
I struck up a conversation with a man originally from Vietnam who had been living near the courtyard for over 20 years. He said most days he wandered through the alley to play chess with a group of locals. He initially came to Berlin because he was attracted to the laid-back atmosphere. The affordable rent was a bonus and that’s why he never left!
Berlin is not an expensive city unlike most of Western Europe’s capital cities. Like me, I’m sure most visitors are quite surprised at this. However, I’ve heard other cities in Germany are more expensive so bare that in mind if you’re planning on travelling around Germany.
A mural depicting Anne Franks is on display down Haus Schwarzenberg.
When you find this alley make sure you open up every door in the courtyard to see where it might take you.
Upstairs bookshop
There’s one door in particular that leads to a stairway covered with graffiti from floor to ceiling, and across the windows and banister.
If you follow the stairway to the top you’ll find a spacious bookshop filled with all kinds of books and magazines dedicated to design, art, photography and illustration.
Address of Haus Schwarzenberg (street art alley)
Rosenthaler Str. 39, 10178 Berlin
Planning a trip to Berlin?
Where to stay in Berlin
I’ve stayed in a few places in Berlin, and by far the best was Circus Hotel. It offers a great location nearby Hackescher Markt, and is close to the Berlin Wall and Soviet-era sites, as well as the fashionable shops. This boutique hotel is great value typically coming in at under £85 most nights of the week. It is equipped with modern perks. Free pre-loaded iPods, Segway rentals, mini-laptops and the Fabisch restaurant.
Book a tour: Why not book a guided street art tour of Berlin or join a walking foodie tour? Take a look at the full range of tours over at Get Your Guide.
Looking for more inspiration on what to see and do in Berlin?
Take a look through these Berlin guides:
- 2 Days Exploring East & West Berlin
- Teufelsberg Spy Station: Street Art on Devil’s Mountain, Berlin.
- An Art Lover’s Guide to Berlin: Museums, Architecture & Street Art
16 responses
Amazing street art! I miss walking along alleyways and seeing them – especially in Europe. Love that stairway and the new layout of your blog 🙂
Hi Lily! Yes, there are some great cities in Europe which know how to dress up their alleyways! Although not necessarily filled with street art, I think Rome and Venice are high up on the alleyway list!
I’m really pleased you like the new layout of my blog. I’m rubbish with computers and codes so your feedback lets me know it was worth the effort! 😀
I love finding streets or alleyways full of street art! I can’t believe I missed this one when we were in Berlin! There’s a particular alley way in Melbourne that whenever you walk down it, the art always seem to have changed! I think it adds to the fun of it.
I’d love to go back to Melbourne and do a (walking) marathon through all the alleyways, it looks like it’s good some seriously good street art! And you’re right, changing the street art really adds to the fun of it, and gives another reason to return.
Must. Go. Here.
This is exactly my kind of place and now I’m raring to go back to Berlin to check it out! I love the mishmash of art on display, and as for those monster things – well… I bet that is an experience! Loving the new site design by the way Shing 🙂
Haha I really don’t know what to think of those ‘monster things’ Lizzie! I wouldn’t pay to see them again but I was amused by the whole spectacle nonetheless!! I’m raring to go back too, Berlin’s a very liveable place, don’t you think?
I’m pleased you like my new site design, it means the frustration was worth it! 😀
Carrying and being ready to use some mace could be a nice way to ward off that potential alley sociopath.
Looks like there was a serious evolution in trip-like art in two and one-third years.
Scream and run would be my first reaction! I know, right? I love how these walls are perpetually changing! I love how street art often makes a statement of the times too.
You had me at Berlin! I would love to explore these back alleyways with a local…a trusted local…who could open those otherwise unnoticed doors. This is the kind of stuff that fascinates me, Shing. Whether it’s artwork, food, music…show me the stuff that many tourists would normally walk right past. The best hidden gems. My favorite part was you mentioning “creative energy”. Another amazing post, our friend! So wonderful to see a post from you. I was thinking about just that earlier in the week. Yes, I keep tabs on my favorite bloggers. I mean that 🙂
I’d love a local to show me the trickier areas to discover too Mike! Although…. my cousin moved there last month so next time I’m there I’ll have one whoop! Ahhh thank you, I can easily say the same about you. Thanks for visiting me 🙂
I’m such a sucker for street art. This was a treat for the eyes!
I’m a sucker for it too, especially in cities like Berlin and Lodz where it’s like a symbol of liberalism too!
Excellent post and very informative! Berlin is a amazing city to explore street art, also in different districts. If you are interested in to gaining more info about street art, Original Berlin Tours organizes free alternative tours where the guides tell stories about the works of the street artists and also historical background. The tours include also introduction to local, alternative life in Berlin and you can get tips where to eat, hang out and party. Here is the website: http://www.originalberlintours.com Feel free to join one of the free tours, when you are in Berlin!
Hi Sallamari, sorry for the (Very!) late reply. Next time I’m in Berlin I’ll definitely give one of your tours a whirl! Thanks for the information!
oh my, I loved this place! I’ve heard it’s nice but I didn’t expect to see that much great street art, it was mindblowing! Until now it’s still one of my fave spots in Berlin and it’s kind of funny how it is centrally located yet (fortunately) not many tourists get there!