I don’t mind admitting I’ve been dreading writing this post, not because I didn’t enjoy walking from San Sebastián to Bilbao, but it feels impossible to do the experience justice in one blog post.
There are so many captivating parts to this walk, and we’re talking almost a week of walking, so it’s hard to know what I should include and what to leave out.
In the end, I’ve decided to try and keep this trip report relatively brief (if we can call 3000 words brief). I’ll fill in the outline and you can colour it all in once you hit the trail. I need to leave you with some surprises, right?
I figure it would be best to include my highlights, some useful information around distances and difficulty levels, and try to answer a few questions that might be important to you.
Walking from San Sebastián to Bilbao along a section of the Camino de Santiago, specifically the Camino del Norte, is a journey that combines stunning coastal views, charming Basque villages, and opportunities to explore the region’s rich history and culture.
Oh, and let’s not forget the food! This part of Spain is famous for pintxos. Trust me when I say you’ll be eating a lot of them along the way. They make the perfect snack and post-walk indulgence.
How long does it take to walk from San Sebastián to Bilbao?
This itinerary takes 5 nights / 6 days, covering roughly 120 kilometres (75 miles). It’s a relatively leisurely pace to allow you to enjoy each place you visit and hopefully relax on the evening.
You could shave off a day at the end by walking from Gernika to Bilbao if you’re pressed for time. If you plan on doing this, then you’ll need to rejig this itinerary accordingly. I’ll warn that it would be a very long day. You should be adapted to walking fast with a relatively sizeable rucksack in tow.
Solo vs travel companion
The camino attracts people for a variety of reasons, each seeking something unique from the experience.
While many people do the camino solo, and it’s something I’m interested in doing in the future, I didn’t really trust my sense of direction enough to do the route by myself. In retrospect, it was more straight-forward than I expected so I could have done it by myself. Still, I’m very happy I got to share the experience with a dear friend.
I asked my friend Lee if he wanted to join me, and always up for an adventure, he needed little convincing. We travelled together to Argentina and we had an absolute blast. I knew he’d be the perfect companion to join me on another adventure, and I wasn’t wrong. It’s great having a companion to distract you from any suffering you might feel on the trail!
I imagine it’s a very different experience doing the camino solo. There’s something about only having yourself to rely on that I imagine makes the trip even more rewarding at the end.
Notes for the journey
Familiarise yourself with the language: Thankfully Lee speaks decent Spanish which turned out to be very useful for the times we wanted to double-check something on the trail. I’d advise anyone embarking on the camino – even if you’re just doing a section – to learn a few phrases. It’ll come in handy.
Accommodation: Along the route, you’ll find albergues (pilgrim hostels) as well as guesthouses and small hotels. It’s wise to book in advance, especially during peak hiking months like summer.
Well-marked route: The Camino del Norte is very well-marked with the traditional yellow scallop shell and yellow arrows that guide pilgrims along the path. Pay attention to these markers, especially in rural areas where the path may be less obvious. In towns you will find the symbol on buildings and even engraved into the pavements. In more remote places you might just find the arrows painted on trees – keep your eyes peeled!
When to go: Late spring to early autumn (May to September) is ideal for hiking this route with longer daylight hours. The summer can be busy, but the coastal breezes make for pleasant walking conditions. I actually went at the end of October and the weather was surprisingly good. The best part was that there was hardly anyone else on the route. The downside was that it gets dark earlier so you need to try and get to your accommodation before 6 pm.
Pack a torch: I wish I had been told this before hitting the trail. In the summer you might be fine without one, but it will prove useful outside of this season. There were a couple of times that we had to use the light on our phone toward the end of the day. Yes… we probably spent far too long mulling about eating and taking selfies on the trail lol.
San Sebastián to Bilbao itinerary
Here’s my day-by-day plan for the journey, offering a mix of scenic walking and time to explore the highlights along the route.
I have included where we stayed overnight. We decided to stay in private rooms since there were two of us and we could spilt the cost. However, I recommend tailoring this itinerary to your budget and needs. If you are travelling solo shared rooms is a great way for you to meet others on the camino.
Day 1: San Sebastián to Getaria (27 km / 17 miles)
The journey begins in San Sebastián (Donostia), a vibrant city known for its stunning beaches and culinary scene. The path starts with a scenic climb out of the city, offering panoramic views over La Concha Beach and the Bay of Biscay. The views are fantastic and set the tone for this scenic walk.
As you follow the Camino del Norte along the coast, you’ll pass through Orio, a picturesque fishing village with traditional Basque charm. If time permits, you might wish to take a detour into the town’s main landmark, the Church of San Nicolás de Bari.
From here, the route continues along coastal paths until you reach Zarautz, famed for its long beach and surf culture. The beach is stretches for 2.8km, making it one of the longest in Spain.
Note: Most people stay overnight in Zarautz, but we decided to walk the extra 2.5 miles to the old medieval town of Getaria. Do a bit of research and see which place takes your fancy more.
Overnight Getaria: Aristondo Pentsioa | Lots of character and positioned right next to the medieval church. Definitely recommend staying here.
Day 2: Getaria to Deba (22 km / 14 miles)
In terms of variety in landscape, this day offered the most. The landscape is gorgeous!
First of all, Getaria is super pretty so I was glad I chose to stay the night. In the morning the whole town was bathed in the most stunning golden light. The whole harbour had transformed into a liquid gold carpet, shimmering endlessly into the distance.
It was hard to believe it was the morning. Summertime at 6pm, absolutely, but never would I have guessed that 8am in late October could look this way. What a way to start to the day. I felt like a solar-powered battery. At the first ray of sunshine, I could literally feel the energy zapping through my body.
Getaria is the birthplace of the explorer Juan Sebastián Elcano. The dude is a big deal, famous for being the first person to circumnavigate the globe in 1522. Head to the square overlooking the harbour and you’ll find a statue of him pointing out toward the sea.
Getaria is also home to the Balenciaga Museum. Unfortunately, I figured I didn’t have time to go inside the museum, but I still want highlight this place incase there are any fashionistas out there want to whizz around in their haute couture, erm… hiking boots.
Afterwards, you will reach Zumaia which is a larger town and a great place to fuel up on snacks and pintxos. As you leave the town, do not miss the Flysch formations in Zumaia. I repeat, do not miss this place. It’s jaw-dropping.
Related: 14 Unique Rock Formations From Around the World
For whatever reason, the main trail doesn’t include this attraction, and stays a kilometre or two away from the coast. I had no idea it existed until I arrived in Getaria the night before and was looking at points of interest nearby. If I had gone home, and realised that I had walked straight past this place, I would’ve cried.
The rest of the trail consists of spectacular sea views and winding hills and picturesque farmland. I think I got lost at some points after veering off to see the flysch rock formations, so I’m not actually sure I was on the official route for all of the way. Nevertheless, I made it to Deba, and it turned out to my my favourite section of the whole trip.
Deba is a small coastal town with a lovely beach. Enjoy a relaxed evening exploring Deba and rest up for the next day’s walk.
Overnight Deba: Pensión Zumardi | Small rooms but very cosy. Lovely location between the town and right next to the beach.
Day 3: Deba to Markina-Xemein (20 km / 12 miles)
This stage leaves the coast behind for a more hilly inland route. The trail climbs through forested paths and offers some lovely sweeping vistas of the countryside.
I would say this day offers the least diversity in terms of landscape. It’s pretty much all forest and countryside views which suited me fine. However, you don’t really pass any notable towns or villages which makes the route much quieter and more absent of facilities. For this reason, I’d recommend stocking up on snacks in Deba before starting this stretch.
The autumnal colours were lovely this time of the year, bursting with orange leaves, but in the heat of summer I imagine the long, exposed stretches can feel like a slog.
You’ll pass through a couple of hamlets, all seemingly deserted, and peaceful rural landscapes before arriving in Markina-Xemein, a town known for its traditional Basque architecture and historic monasteries.
Relatively speaking, Markina-Xemein is quite a big town and once you arrive you will feel like you’ve landed back into civilisation.
I actually stayed in Etxebarria located 1.5km before Markina-Xemein, so I wouldn’t actually end up exploring the town until the following morning.
Overnight Deba (outskirts) : Hotel Antsotegi | A converted factory with lots of character. Very spacious and serves up excellent food.
Alternative: Casa Rural Intxauspe | If you want to stay in the town centre, I’ve read very good things about this guesthouse.
Day 4: Markina-Xemein to Gernika (28 km / 17.5 miles)
Today’s route brings you deeper into the Basque Country’s heartland, with more rolling hills and pastoral scenery. Day 4 was one of my absolute favourite sections of the San Sebastián to Bilbao walk. I loved the mixed of culture and nature that it offers.
You will reach Bolibar, a small town that is known for the Simón Bolívar Museum. Admittedly, I didn’t know who he was, but it turns out he’s a very important figure. Also known as El Libertador (The Liberator), he was revolutionary who played a pivotal role in Latin America’s struggle for independence from Spanish rule.
It seemed initially odd that he would have a museum dedicated to his life in such a relatively small town, but there’s a link. Bolívar’s family traced its origins to the Basque Country, and his surname itself is derived from this town.
Don’t Miss: The Monastery of Zenarruza
We continue on for about 35 minutes later (2km) and reached our next highlight of the day, and arguably the most impressive: The Monastery of Zenarruza.
The monastery is considered an iconic spot on the Camino, founded in the 10th century, it became an important pilgrimage stop on the Camino de Santiago, providing shelter and spiritual guidance. I discovered that you can actually say here for a night which must be very cool to experience.
I was also rather amused to learn that the monks brew a beer called Ziortza Beer which you buy in the shop. Lee was extremely tempted, but I knew if he had one, it would be game over. He knew that as well so instead settled for one of the baked pastries that are homemade by the monks and sold in the shop.
The rest of the walk to Gernika took us through some brilliant woodland areas, wooden boardwalks and countryside routes around Mendata. Some points required uphill walking that I found quite gruelling with the extra weight from my backpack, but nothing too much to moan about! If we were running low on energy, Lee turned up Britney Spears on his phone and that seemed to do the trick. Whatever works, right?
It was a long day but a varied and satisfying one!
The Bombing of Gernika & the Picasso Mural
Gernika is an historical city with a sombre history. Franco allied himself with the Nazi party in Germany, and requested Hitler’s assistance in the war effort. It became worldwide famous after a 4-hour bombing by Nazi aviation on a quiet Sunday in 1937 that killed 5000 people and destroying 90% of the buildings.
In response to the event, Pablo Picasso produced his most famous work of art, the great anti war painting, Guernica, that resides inside the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía in Madrid. In town you will find a copy of his painting in tile form.
Overnight Gernika: Hotel Gernika | Not as charming as other accommodations but does the job!)
Day 5: Gernika to Lezama (24 km / 15 miles)
Overall, the route is pleasant, but not as interesting as the day before. Leaving Gernika, the route took us past Chapel of Santa Lucía and through rolling hills and rural landscapes with oak and chestnut forests, and some not-so-scenic asphalt. This day also includes some with moderate ascents and descents (don’t worry, nothing too gruelling!).
Highlights include panoramic views at Alto de Morga and Alto de Aretxabalagana. After this, the route continues gently downhill through a forest trail until reaching the small village of Goikolexea.
Following on is a long stretch of road with painted slogans saying “Freedom for the Basque Country and Their Political Prisoners” and “This is not Spain nor France – Euskal Herriak Indepentzia”.
Next we arrive in Larrabetzu and take a short rest in the main square. Somewhere nearby is one of the world’s best restaurants, Azurmendi, which has not one, not two, but three Michelin stars. We fantasised about trailing in and sitting down for a 12-course meal.
Have you’ve ever watch Hook (1991) with Robin Williams? There’s a wonderful scene where Williams is sitting down on the ship with a bunch of kids and they’re gorging on all this imaginary food. Then, all of a sudden, through sheer power of imagination, the food magically appears in ‘real life’.
Well, we sort of reacted this scene when dreaming of lunch at Azurmendi. However, to our disappointment the food did not magically appear. Maybe we need to work on our imagination.
Eventually we arrived in the quiet town of Lezama and had an early night after dinner. We had nearly completed our walk from San Sebastián to Bilbao – just one more day left!
Overnight Lezama: Madarian I Not many options in town but we this one had everything we needed. Very peaceful setting with a nice garden.
Day 6: Lezama to Bilbao (13.5 km / 8.5 miles)
Today is the final stage of this section and by far the shortest! The walk to Bilbao takes you through a few neighbourhoods and an industrial estate for a few kilometres. As you can imagine, the section isn’t anything to write home about. However, once we left the industrial area and crossed over a motorway bridge, it got much better.
The highlight of this section is the climb up Mt Avril, about 300 metres of elevation gain. The view at the top takes in the sprawling city of Bilbao. The end is near. After walking for several days in the countryside it felt rather surreal seeing such a modern metropolis. At this point, it felt like we were reentering civilisation, and Bilbao, in that moment, was the epicentre of the world.
As we descend into Bilbao, the camino brought us straight into the city’s charming old town (Casco Viejo), with its narrow streets and traditional bars serving pintxos.
We started the trip with a plate of pintxos and that’s exactly how we ended it. When in Rome, right?
Overnight Bilbao: You won’t be short on accommodation in Bilbao, and due to the competition you can find bang for your buck! We treated ourselves on our final night and stayed at Hotel Miró. It was a great place to relax with a spectacular view overlooking the Guggenheim. The breakfast is fabulous.
Optional Day 7: Explore Bilbao
If you have extra time, spend a day exploring Bilbao more thoroughly. Visit the world-famous Guggenheim with its futuristic architecture, take a stroll along the Nervión River, and ride the Artxanda Funicular for panoramic views over the city.
In the evening dive into the city’s rich gastronomy with a pintxos tour in the Casco Viejo, or relax in Doña Casilda Park. This extra day allows you to unwind after your journey and soak in Bilbao’s vibrant atmosphere.
