Japanese youth culture has fascinated and baffled me for as long as I can remember. So naturally I wasn’t going to leave Tokyo without heading to Harajuku, the epicentre of Japanese youth culture and fashion.
The first thing you have to prepare yourself for are the crowds. The sensory overload you’ll experience when arriving onto the most famous street in Harajuku – Takeshita Dori – hits you like a smack in the face.
The narrow 400m long street is unbelievably crammed full of thousands of people. They meander through its many boutiques, clothing chains and fashion malls catering towards the ever so popular phrase ‘kawaii’ AKA cute! Have your camera ready, it’s like a catwalk in open air.
Takeshita Dori
Be sure to stand at the top of Takeshita Dori underneath the sign and look down at the full spectacle. It’s a surreal experience to see so many people in one street.
I’ve only really ever witnessed that many people crammed into one space when I’ve waited to go down into the underground station at Piccadilly Circus in London during rush hour. However, Takeshita Dori is way more fun. There are no city slickers here, it’s where the Cosplayers like to hang.
This alone, combined with the many thousands of surgical masks everyone seems to wear, flashing neon lights and rainbow colours everywhere, is one heck of a vision.
Warning: if you suffer from claustrophobia you might want to give this street a miss, or at least avoid it on the weekends.
Cosplay
Takeshita Dori has been associated with fashion subcultures since the 1970’s. However, I get the sense like most places today, it has become increasingly commercialised with a variety of the obligatory chain shops popping up here and there.
Don’t let this detract you. There are still plenty of good quality second-hand clothing shops to enjoy. There’s also the mighty Daiso – one of the largest 100 Yen shops in central Tokyo which is spread across 4 floors.
Dotted between everything are numerous crepe shops (a Harajuku must) and keep your eyes peeled for the Cosplay (Costume Play) girls dressed in Gothic Lolita nurse and maid uniforms.
Personally, I feel a strong sense of bemusement looking at these Cosplay girls. A part of me loves the look, while the other half of me wonders why a grown woman wishes to dress like a little girl.
It’s a shame Freud isn’t here to give us his two cents worth. Honestly, I do find the whole thing rather odd, but each to their own!
Though I did fall in love with a girl sporting a short green bowl cut. I felt completely captivated by her unique beauty, plus she also reminds me of a My Little Pony. No where beats Japan for people-watching.
Had I been fifteen again like I was the first time I visited Camden in North London, I would have absolutely loved Takeshita Dori. However, my interests have changed so I found a lot of the places pretty tacky. Though like I said, it’s still an interesting insight into Japanese youth culture and worth visiting for that reason alone.
The rest of Harajuku also has an electric array of fashionable shops with less emphasis on dressing up like Lolita!
Need a break from the crowds?
If you need a break from the crowds, right around the corner nearby the station is the beautiful Meiji Shrine. It is dedicated to the late 19th-century emperor Meiji. He’s a very important figure in Japan, regarded for his role in opening Japan to the West and transforming the country into an industrial powerhouse.
While I can’t guarantee there won’t be any crowds, the shrine and the surrounding Yoyogi parkland is leafy. It should be enough to feel a sense a space and tranquility. For sure, you won’t be confronted with masses of people found at Takeshita Dori.
Inside Meiji Shrine
The entrance to Meiji shrine features a 40-foot-high torii gate made out of 1,500-year-old cypress wood. Along the trail is also a cleansing station where people can purify their hands and mouths before offering a prayer. Throughout the Japan, you will probably see other cleansing stations so feel free to use them if you fancy partaking in a traditional Japanese ritual. They are there for all to use.
Along the trail on the way to the shrine itself, you’ll come across a huge collection of beautifully decorated sake barrels called kazaridaru. Interestingly, sake isn’t just an alcoholic drink. Traditionally it’s believed to connect the people of Japan with the gods. Now I understand why it’s so popular!
As a result, sake brewers from all around Japan donate their sake to the enshrined deities at the Meiji shrine. The wine is then used for ceremonies and festivals.
Outside the Meiji shrine is the Meiji wishing tree. It’s a sacred Camphor tree surrounded by Kiganbun (prayer texts) where visitors write a prayer or wish on a small wooden tablet or paper before hanging it on the tree.
Whether you’re a religious person or not, it’s a lovely sentiment to make and only costs a few yen as a contribution which in hindsight is nothing when you see how well-maintained the shrine and surrounding Yoyogi park is kept.
The Meiji Shrine itself is a beautiful example of Japanese Shinto architecture, made out of cypress wood and green copper for the roofs. It’s a recommended detour to take after hitting the shopping district of Harajuku. Trust me, you’ll want something more gentle after the chaos that is Takeshita Dori!
Have you been to Takeshita Dori in Harajuku?
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8 responses
Hmmm… these cosplay girls are a pretty odd phenomenon. An old friend of mine does it and I can’t quite get my head around it, but fascinating all the same! Japan looks mad… I’d love to visit!
I think our thoughts align Katie! Japan is mad… it encompasses everything, definitely a place not to miss off your future travel plans!
I really loved going to Harajuku when I was in Japan. I literally just wandered around and people watched. The funky fashion there is mesmerising at times. I wish I had the guys to sport some of the outfits and hairstyles I saw. On another note – did you ever try Japanese Green Tea Latte? REALLY good!
People watching is the best in Harajuku, a true feast for the eyes! I completely revelled in the total bombardment of colour and crazy fashion styles.
Ahhh no I didn’t, what a shame – but I know for next time, thanks Lily!
‘Love your post Shing!
I haven’t yet been to Japan but my tween son is a geek about Japanese – Korean culture. Mostly concerning Manga and other Japanese youth sub-culture trends! We have two kittens and while one is called Lily, the other kitten is named after an anime character called Yokiko!
In a country that has a mono-culture of people seemingly looking quite similar, I can quite understand the need to stand out and be different. In Europe, people dye their hair, wear anti-establishment clothing, and adorn their hair and faces with tatoos or piercings. Japanese young people do the same. Hence, the twigs and flowers on their heads lol!
Ahhhh I’ve never really thought about the the need for differentiation in a population where people’s features do no differ greatly in comparison to say, England. I can see why the need for individuality would be greater. Thanks for your insight Victoria!!
LOL! My little pony. Couldn’t have captioned it better myself, and if you do run in to Freud, I need to speak with him as well.
Will be spending a few days in Tokyo on my way back from Thailand. Won’t get much more than a wink from Japanese culture while there but I’ll take it. This was a fun read.
Have an awesome time in Tokyo, however little time you have there! Wish I could be there too!