There are few places where you can experience local life better than a food market, and on the streets of Pondicherry this means taking a trip to Goubert food market.
I had chosen to do a cooking class in Pondicherry. I was excited to learn a few new recipes, but before things were about to get serious in the kitchen we needed to pop out to buy the ingredients.
For this, our enthusiastic chef brought us to Goubert food market. Here, we could get everything we needed for the occasion – spices, fish, banana leaves – you name it, we could get it.
Goubert Market isn’t just a place you go for food. You can buy a wide variety of items – woven baskets, saris, leather goods, silk, jewellery, flowers, and just about everything and anything else. However, the main reason people flock to Goubert is for affordable fresh ingredients.
The produce is fresh, varied, and reasonably priced. It is also where many local restaurants get their daily supplies so if you really want to see it in full swing arrive early. It’ll be hectic but arguably more atmospheric.
Named after Édouard Goubert, the first Chief Minister of Pondicherry, the market branches off from M.G. Road and into a myriad of narrow alleyways each offering a host of items for sale.
If you are used to markets in Europe, I’m hasten to add that Goubert food market isn’t the type of place where you’re going to find fancy farmer’s market-style goods. Absolutely not. It’s much more stripped back and no frills than that. I guess you could say, it’s a bit rough around the edges. It is India, after all.
What we bought in Goubert Market
The fish market
For our main dish we were cooking a Kerelan fish curry so our teacher took us to the fish section. I think it’s the most incredible part of the market, with the pungent smell and cacophony of noise hitting you immediately.
What struck me as unusual was that all the sellers were female. About a hundred odd local women, shouting, chopping, and mingling among each other. They looked incredible, all trying to cajole you to choose from an assortment of fish and seafood. It would appear that the men do the fishing and the women do the selling. Seems like a fair division of labour.
We opted for a Seer fish which is a white fish often dubbed the ‘King mackerel’. They are a delicacy in several regions of South India and Sri Lanka. In Tamil Nadu, the region Pondicherry belongs to, the fish is called ‘Vanjaram’ and is usually the costliest variety available.
It was incredible to watch the women in this environment. Our chosen seller slapped down the large fish on a chopping board, raised up a large, sharp knife and began slicing it into several thick cuts before tossing them into an old fashioned weighing scale.
Buying banana leaves
Another interesting stall we visited belonged to a friendly man who sold nothing but banana leaves. These are important, because in India, particularly in South India, food is often served on banana leaves instead of plates.
Previously, I had been to Little India in Melaka, Malaysia, and had enjoyed eating curry with my hands off a banana leaf, so this tradition was not completely new to me.
I’m a big fan of eating this way. It’s one of the most eco-friendly ways of eating food. Banana leaves degrade quickly, and in a country with an over-sized population like India it curbs people using plastic utensils which does not help the environment.
Furthermore, banana leaves contain natural polyphenols that have antibacterial properties, which can help prevent contamination. A common practice is to pour a bit of hot water over the leaf before serving, which also enhances its cleanliness and releases a fresh aroma.
Flowers
In contrast to the stifling smell of the fish market is the section reserved for flowers. Fragrant strains waft across nearby spaces and women are busy making beautiful Jasmine flower garlands.
Garlands and the act of garlanding are deeply rooted in Indian culture. They can take the form of a gajra, when females use it as a floral decoration for their hair, or as religious symbols to honour gods or even as a ayurvedic practice believed to reduce nervousness and also keeps the brain in calmness.
Arrive in the morning
You will find other interesting stalls in the midst of fervent haggling and a rainbow of colours and noise. I suggest going to Goubert Market early in the day. The place buzzes with activity though it’s probably not for the faint of heart – it might be packed to the gills with people and activity.
Be careful to give way to the ‘runners’ with goods stacked high on their heads. It’s easy to lose one’s way, but if you’re interested in seeing an old fashioned market in operation this is the place to head. It’s not a neat and tidy place, but arguably it’s more of an experience for it.
And, for all those who enjoy photography, photo opportunities are abound.
Afterwards I learnt how to make several Indian dishes which I’m going to try and recreate in my own kitchen now that I’m back home (wish me luck).
Are you planning a trip to Pondicherry or India?
You might also like these food-related blogs inspired by Indian cuisine.
- Authentic Indian Food: Taking a Cooking Class in Pondicherry
- 11 Cultural Activities to Experience in India
- Vegetarian Dishes to Try in India (Or Cook at Home!)
One Response
Yeah you rightly said that all the food items and other home needs also available .but the cleanliness of the entire area is very bad conditions and the basic amenities are provided as much as old ( French ruling periods)