Livraria Lello in Porto – Not Your Average Bookstore

Ever since I saw a photo of Livraria Lello, known commonly as one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, I was seduced into seeing it for myself.

Finally, I was standing outside the entrance looking up at its chalk-white façade with intricate neo-gothic carvings in the centre of downtown Porto. But there was a problem. A queue to go in was stretching half way down the street so after a quick rethink I turned away in pursuit of quieter corners. It was Saturday afternoon after all so I should have expected the crowds. Livraria Lello might be small but it can hardly call itself a hidden gem.

Part of its popularity can also be thanked to J.K. Rowling who was ‘supposedly’ a regular customer while she lived in Porto teaching English as a foreign language in the early 90s. It’s even said that she wrote the beginning chapters of Harry Potter while living in the city.

Inside Livraria Lello Bookshop

After my first attempt to enter was squashed, I was now back again on Monday, and to my relief there wasn’t a queue. I would avoid weekends if possible.

As soon as I entered, the book-cladded walls weren’t the first thing I noticed. With more curves than Marilyn Monroe and Betty Boop put together, the spiral art nouveau staircase carved from wood and finished in the centre with glossy red paint presented a show-stopping entrance.

There’s something inexplicably alluring about the way the wooden structure flows like water and spreads out at the top to connect the ground floor with the mezzanine.

I climbed the stairs and was greeted with a beautiful stained-glass ceiling inscribed with the words, ‘Decus in Labore’ which translates to ‘dignity in work’.

Every inch of the building appeared tantalising for the eyes, mind and body. Similar to libraries, there’s something special about bookshops. They change how you feel and behave. They make you tread gently as though not to scare away the characters burrowed within the pages of all the books.

Exquisite hand-carved details

Even if you’re not a bookworm or much of a reader, I recommend going for the stunning interior. The building itself was designed by engineer Xavier Esteves, but appreciation must also be shown to the carpenters. The woodwork alone is a thing of absolute beauty. It’s hard to imagine that someone sculpted this by hand.

There are also busts of famous Portuguese artists that peers down at you from the shelves. In many ways the bookshop possesses the same inspiring quality of the Bodleian Library in Oxford. It’s another place that has links to Harry Potter, with the library being used as the film location for Hogwarts Library.

Entry price & book purchase

I bought an entrance ticket for the princely sum of €8 and was told by the staff that this fee would be knocked off any book I purchased. Most of the books on display are in Portuguese, so I went for a more practical purchase by reaching for a city guidebook on Porto.

Is Livraria Lello worth visiting?

This is a hard question to answer because honestly, I do think €8 is very expensive when you consider that any other bookshop is free. No doubt, it’s beautiful so ultimately it comes down to your own budget. However, it’s a popular place and you will come away with a book. A nice momento of your trip to Porto if nothing else. Hopefully there’s a book that you want. Alternatively, they do sell a nice tote bag.

The main thing to be mindful of is Livraria Lello is very small and very popular so it can get crowded. The best time to go is later in the day after the crowds have whittled down or during the week.

Overall, if it doesn’t dent your budget, and you love books and beautiful places, I would recommend visiting.

Opening times: Saturday: 10:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m. Sunday: Closed.  Monday – Friday: 10:00 a.m. – 7:30 p.m.

Address: R. das Carmelitas 144, 4050-161 Porto. Website: www.livrarialello.pt.

Where to stay in Porto

For all you literary lovers out there, I have the perfect hotel for you! Torel Palace Porto is a completely refurbished former palace transformed into an exquisite boutique hotel. No expense to detail has been spared. The design is around a literary theme with each bedroom named after an author.

Despite its spacious size, there are only 24 rooms. This ensures that each guest has a personal and intimate experience once they are welcomed through the doors. High ceilings are decorated with beautiful stucco work and huge windows let the light flood in. If you’re looking to relax, you can find a cosy spot in the library, or soak in the beautiful outdoor pool. 

Visiting Porto and looking for more inspiration?

Further reading on Porto:

→ Architecture in Porto: 5 Contemporary Buildings You Should See 

→ Fabulous Things to do in Porto

Want to see more bookshops around the world?

→ Word on the Water: The Boat That Transformed into a Bookshop in London 

→ Leakey’s Bookshop in Inverness – A Church Full of Books!

→14 Most Beautiful Bookshops in Europe

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Would you like to visit Livraria Lello?