Imagine drifting along the mist-shrouded waters of the Kinabatangan River at dawn, surrounded by the sounds of the Bornean rainforest waking up. The air echos the calls of hornbills and monkeys, while the rainforest canopy above hides majestic creatures waiting to be revealed.
Nature puts on a show, but you never know who exactly will make an appearance. All kinds of animals peak out between the mangroves and bushes that line the river banks, and further below lurks the watchful eyes of the mighty crocodile as it petrols the murky waters for prey. He’s constantly there in stealth mode, preferring not to be seen.
A trip to the Kinabatangan River in Borneo, offers a journey through one the world’s most biodiverse regions, where every bend in the river is filled with the anticipation of wildlife encounters. Some of you will see animals you never knew existed in Borneo, at least, for me, that was the case.
Getting to the Kinabatangan River
The river is about 3.5 hours by road from Sandakan, a city known as a gateway to the wonders of Sabah in East Borneo, Malaysia. You can either fly or drive to Sandakan and arrange a transfer or join a tour to whisk you away to the lush riverbanks.
Recommended: If time permits, I highly recommend spending a few days along the banks in a lodge to fully immerse yourself in the natural treasures of the Kinabatangan. I did exactly that, and it was one of the main highlights of my trip to Borneo. I’ve provided details my accommodation at the end of this article.
Borneo’s Big Five
The Kinabatangan River is known for its incredible range of wildlife, including some of Borneo’s most iconic species. Just like Africa, Borneo also has its own Big 5 to look out for:
- Pygmy Elephant
- Proboscis Monkey
- Orangutan
- Rhinoceros Hornbill
- Estuarine Crocodile
Boat safaris on the Kinabatangan River: Spotting all the Big 5
Morning River Safaris are a must for spotting early risers among the wildlife. I clamoured into the boat at 5.45am, still yawning and rubbing sleep out of my eyes. However, I soon woke up at the sighting of a crocodile just a couple of metres’ away from the boat.
They lie almost camouflaged on the banks with that kind of threatening silence that only the most deadly predators can evoke. At other times, they can be seen stealthily swimming through the muddy waters waiting for their next pray.
The bird with an Elvis Presley quiff…
As the sun rises and burns away the morning mist, the riverbanks come alive with activity. Birds like gentle kingfishers and the majestic rhinoceros hornbill flash their resplendent colours through the air. I’d never seen a bird like the hornbill with its distinctive Elvis Presley quiff (though if we’re getting technical, the proper name is a casque, not quiff).
My senses became heightened. I listened carefully as though trying to hear a pin fall inside a crowded room. Every time a saw or heard the rustling of leaves, I darted my head in that direction to see what it could be, not wanting to miss a thing. Sometimes I was too late, or it was too hard to spot. Other times, monkeys swung and swooped from the branches. Most were gibbons and proboscis monkeys, who are better swimmers than orangutans and like being near the water.
Family of elephants
To my surprise, we spotted one of the most elusive rainforest dwellers along the Kinabatangan River: the pygmy elephant. Our guide tells us that we are lucky, and I feel very lucky indeed. I’ve seen them in Sri Lanka before, but these ones are much smaller, and more scarce in the wild.
It was a herd of maybe 6 or 7 resting on the banks. Some were lying down sleeping, and others just munched on leaves in the shade. We watched them silently for approximately 10 minutes until the sleeping elephants woke up, rose to the ground, and one by one slowly disappeared deeper into the forest. Our group only noticed that there was a baby elephant among the group once its propped itself up from slumber and looked as cute as a button.
Jungle treks – watch out for leeches!
Our lodge offered a guided jungle walk in the afternoon, where you can explore on foot and learn about the unique flora and fauna of the region. Admittedly, I didn’t join my friends for this trek because I knew I would suffer in the heat. Instead I simply relaxed and enjoyed the view from my balcony across the river, and caught up on a bit of sleep that was well needed after some deprivation hiking Mount Kinabalu.
My two friends enjoyed the hike, despite one getting a leech stuck to his stomach! How a leech latched onto him there he has no idea since he was wearing a T-shirt. He felt a weird sensation, went in for a scratch, and the slippery sucker stuck to his finger!
Despite feeling rather grossed out, he was absolutely fine, but it’s a good reminder to make sure you tuck in any loose materials. Insects and whatnot are called creepy crawlies for a reason! Packing leech socks is a good idea too.
Nighttime adventures & wildlife encounters
The adventure doesn’t end when the sun sets. On my first night along the Kinabatangan River I joined a night walk, and the second night I hopped aboard a night cruise. I recommend both experiences if you have the time and means.
Night walk
A nighttime walk allows you to get up close and personal with nature. I came out wearing a head torch and my guide told me that I might wish to consider carrying it instead. Why? To avoid insects flying into my head.
I’ve never whipped something off my body so fast!
I already knew that insects were attracted to light, but I completely forgot what that would mean If I had a light attached to my head. I’m pleased to say that my face narrowly avoided being attacked my a swarm of mostiqoes, or worse, man-eating bats.
Ok, there are no man-eating bats, but there might as well be by the time they’re flying into my face. Can you imagine? I think the sound of my scream would cause a tremor big enough to score on the Richter scale.
I’m not going to lie, sometimes I felt a bit scared, wandering what might be lurking behind me, but most of the time it was just my imagination playing tricks on me. I saw all kinds of cool creatures. Things I found amazing as a kid, and still do as an adult. On the walk, our guide pointed out various species of stick insects, frogs, and the most beautiful butterflies, one of which chose to momentarily land on my friend’s coat.
Spotting a slow loris
As the night walk was coming to an end, we spotted a slow loris hugging onto a branch tree. Unfortunately, I didn’t have my better camera on me to show you, but it looked so cute with its big eyes peering out from the branches and sparkling under the moonlight.
Don’t, however, be fool by their cute appearance. Slow lorises are the only known venomous primate. Furthermore, despite their name, they are not actually slow. While they can remain totally still for hours when waiting to ambush passing prey, they can actually move up to 8km per night!
Night cruise
Night cruises on the Kinabatangan River are like stepping into a different world, where the forest is alive with new sounds and shadows. Our guides used his flashlight to reveal nocturnal creatures, and shadowy figures lurking high in the treetops.
Up-close we saw slithery snakes resting on leaves, and huge owls perching on tree branches with their big eyes that seemingly never blink and we saw more and more crocodiles resting and waiting. The thing about crocodiles is that they always look deadly still, but when they move, it’s sudden, quick, and always catches you by surprise.
Kinabatangan River accommodation: Hornbill Lodge
After some research, I decided to stay at Hornbill Lodge after reading excellent reviews. They offer packages ranging from 1 – 3 nights and I booked the 3D/2N Kinabatangan River Safari package. The cost is 1490 MYR in total (approx £250) and this price includes accommodation, multiple excursions, food, and transfers. If you’re travelling solo or on a budget, they also offer some dorm rooms at a reduced of 1190 MYR for the same package.
The staff and guides are really friendly and the accommodation is super nice. Each room is its own little chalet with a balcony overlooking the river and surrounding rainforest.
While I can personally recommend Hornbill Lodge, there are more accommodation options along the river to suit your budget and preferences. For something a bit more affordable, The Last Frontier Boutique Resort appears to have rave reviews, so it’s worth checking them out too.
Lastly, at the higher end of the budget is Borneo Eco Tours who also have a plush lodge in Sukau located along the river. They also offer an extensive range of tours around the river and further afield in Borneo.
Essential tips before going
- Bring binoculars and a camera: To truly appreciate the hidden wonders of the rainforest, binoculars are invaluable, and a good camera will help you capture the moments you’ll want to remember forever.
- Breathable clothing: The rainforest is hot and humid, so wear light, breathable clothing and bring a rain jacket for unexpected showers. Long sleeves will help keep midgets and critters at bay during evening excursions.
- Mosquito repellent: Although I didn’t think there were too many compared to other places I have been, it’s also good to be prepared. I prefer to use natural repellent like lemongrass which has never failed to work and is kinder to your skin.
- Respect the Wildlife: Guides are passionate about protecting the Kinabatangan’s delicate ecosystem, so follow their instructions carefully, maintaining a respectful distance from animals and avoiding any disturbance to their natural behaviors.
