Chefchaouen is affectionally described as the ‘Blue Pearl of Morocco’, a title wholly deserving of its name. Beautifully nestled among the Rif Mountains in northwest Morocco, every corner and crevice of the city has been painted in brilliant shades of blue.
The walls of Chefchaouen have become a living, breathing, work of art. The walls are the canvas and the colour blue is the painter’s palette of choice. As you stroll around, so many beautiful details come to life in a place that appears like an enchanting dream.
Is the whole city really painted blue?
Social media and travel magazines have a way of only showing you the best bits so sometimes expectations don’t always meet reality. I wondered if Chefchaouen would be another tourist trap destined for the same fate. Instead of finding a city laid out entirely in hues of blue, would it in fact just be one or two streets?
As I approached the city by bus from Fez, it didn’t look so blue from a distance and my heart sank a little. Could my fears be true? Had I been wickedly deceived by social media influencers and eager tourist boards after all?
However, it turns out that the buildings seen from a distance also make up the new part of the city which doesn’t really adhere to the famous colour scheme. So as you approach Chefchaouen it doesn’t have the wow factor you might expect.
Soon enough, any disappointment I had dispersed once I stepped off the bus and made my way towards the old medina. With each step I made, more and more buildings painted blue came into view.
By now I was fully within the old city walls and completely enclosed by every single shade of blue imaginable. Sapphire, teal, turquoise, ultramarine, indigo, sky and cobalt blue washed vividly across buildings, walls, floors and doors.
Every twist and turn felt like a dreamscape. Chefchaouen didn’t just meet my expectations, it exceeded them.
But why is Chefchaouen painted blue?
Like many things from the past, nobody knows for certain why things are the way they are. Chefchaouen is no exception. Truth be told, nobody can say with proof why the Old Town is painted entirely blue. However, there are several theories:
Sephardi Jewish culture
One view is that the Sephardi Jews who emigrated to Morocco from Spain during the Spanish inquisition brought with them a tradition of painting buildings and objects blue. While fleeing to avoid persecution for not converting to Catholicism, this tradition and visual representation would make them feel more at home in their new surroundings.
According to Jewish belief, the colour blue is representative of the sky. So painting houses became a tradition because it reminded them of the sky and the feeling of closeness to God.
Mosquito repellant
On a more practical level, there is the belief that the liberal use of blue paint is in effort to repel mosquitoes and prevent malaria. The reasoning is that these pesky insects do not like being in the water (despite breeding and living near water). So with hundreds of walls painted blue, many of which resembling flowing water, people believe that this aspect keeps away the mosquitoes.
Personally, I’m no scientist, but does blue paint resemble water? Maybe it does to mosquitoes… Somehow, given how sneaky they are, I thought they’d be smarter than that! Nevertheless, it is certainly possible that Muslims saw fewer mosquitoes in the Jewish part of the town, and decided over time to follow suit.
Aesthetics and soothing effect
While beauty is subjective, most of us can agree that the colour blue is enjoyed by most. Could it be that a few homes close to the mellah liked the colour originally painted by Jewish settlers and decided to copy it? After all, in Islamic culture blue has its own different associations, said to be a colour of happiness and optimism.
Furthermore, something which interested me whilst walking around the medina was how calm and peaceful the atmosphere felt. I’ve read a few articles about the therapeutic benefits of blue, and scientists have experimented with the colour in relation to calming effects on our emotions.
I should add that I visited in February so there weren’t many tourists, but even so, the whole mood of Chefchaouen is much more relaxing than Marrakech and Fes. But then again, I think everywhere is more relaxing than Marrakech!
Tourism
Lastly, there are others who say it’s purely for tourism. But while tourism might play a factor in adhering to the tradition (it’s definitely a draw for travellers which no doubt is important for the local economy), it doesn’t provide a reason why it began in the first place since major tourism only began in the last few decades.
My thoughts
I’m inclined to believe there’s an element of truth to all of the reasons. Perhaps the tradition began when the Sephardi Jews emigrated to the area, and the Muslims adopted it purely for their appreciation of the colour blue from an aesthetic point of view.
It’s possible that the calming properties of the colour was noticed and appreciated, and now it’s just what everyone does. In more modern times, it reflects the idea that communities in Morocco like to show a united front.
All I really know is Chefchaouen is uniquely blue-tiful, oops, I mean, beautiful. (Sorry, I couldn’t resist). I’m sure you’ll agree that it’s incredibly photogenic too.
Where to stay in Chefchaouen
After reading so many glowing reviews of Casa Perlerta, I didn’t hesitate to make a booking and I could not have wished for a better experience.
It’s often said good things come in small packages. This is certainly true for Casa Perla. Despite an endless supply of charm, this boutique hotel is surprisingly affordable. This winning combination has resulted in it being considered by many as the no.1 place to stay in Chefchaouen. However, with only 10 rooms available, only a few people who visit the city can actually stay here so make sure you don’t miss the chance by booking in advance.
You can read more about my dreamy stay in this dedicated blog post: Casa Perleta: The Most Charming Hotel In Chefchaouen.
How to get to Chefchaouen
I caught the bus from Fez, and it took about 4 hours. You can also hire a private transfer. Alternatively you can join a guided tour to Chefchaouen from a few places. Afterwards, I travelled to Tangier which is closer to Chefchaouen, taking around 2 hours. If you would prefer a day trip it therefore makes the most sense to do it from Tangier.
