Ever since my first trip to Athens, Greece has always loomed large in my imagination. The ancient monuments, the mythological tales, the cuisine infused with olive oil, and centuries-long traditions all appeal to my pleasure-seeking senses.
Greece is a country that travellers return to time and time again, and the opportunity for me to return to its shimmering shores finally came at the beginning of May. This time the destination was Crete, the largest of the Greek Islands. The focus of the trip was a cultural journey through Chania, the island’s second largest city.
Chania
Admittedly, this wasn’t my first time on a Greek Island. After I had barely stumbled out of my teenage years, I naively hopped on a plane to Kos. Without doing any research I tagged along with a couple of friends to a Club 18-30 holiday. I rarely even drink so I had absolutely no business being there. All I can remember is curling up in the bottom of a deck after throwing up at the side of a boat hailed ‘the booze cruise’.
Needless to say, I don’t count this boozy sojourn as really going to a Greek island. Officially, this claim rightfully goes to Crete, and the difference in experience was like night and day.
Anyway, I’m digressing, let’s get back to Chania. I had a blast soaking up the historical sights, feeling the sun against my skin, and eating my entire body weight in mizithra cheese. Now that I’m back, and trying to ween myself off an addiction to Koroneiki olives (but failing), I’d love to share with you my mini odyssey through Chania and beyond.
If you were already thinking of heading to Chania but felt unsure, this travel guide has been designed with you in mind. Whether you decide to visit Chania as a stand alone destination, or incorporate it in a larger trip to Crete, the land poetically described as the ‘Island of the Gods’, will leave you wondering why you hadn’t visited sooner. It’s certainly what I’ve been asking myself.
Disclaimer – During my trip to Chania I was hosted by Jet2 and Chania Tourism Board, however, all thoughts and opinions are my own.
Why you should visit Chania
When most people think about Crete, the allure of sun-kissed beaches and swimming in crystal-clear waters probably comes to mind. You’d be forgiven if you thought these were the only things the island has to offer. However, holidays to Crete offer so much more, especially when you throw Chania into the mix.
Chania is one of the longest continually habitated cities in the world and regarded by the island’s residents as the spiritual capital even though the title was passed over to Heraklion in 1971.
It’s a stunning city oozing with charm, and full to the brim with activities to feed a wide range of diverse interests. Activities range from historical architecture to archeological ruins; cultural traditions to foodie tours; hiking trails to water-based adventures. Yep, this is a destination where you can pack your hiking boots along with your bikini!
Best time to visit
With its warm Mediterranean climate, Chania is a popular holiday destination throughout the year. However, for optimal weather the best time to go is from the beginning of May to the end of October.
If you want to avoid the busiest period then I highly recommend going between May – June and September – October. While not off the beaten-track, Chania thankfully doesn’t yet suffer from mass tourism particularly outside of peak season, a blessing for those who wish to enjoy the vast tapestry of Greek culture at a leisurely pace.
Best things to do in Chania
Explore the charming Old Town
Chania is unanimously considered the most beautiful city on the island of Crete thanks to its well-preserved Old Town that comprises much of the city.
Chania went through three major periods of rule, namely the Byzantine (Christians) and Arab Era, Venetia Era (Italians), and Ottoman Era (Turkish Muslims). These distinct periods are all reflected in the architecture found within the Old Town. It might sound like a cliché, but history is literally peeling off the walls and that’s a big reason why so many people fall in love with the city.
My favourite area to wander around was Splantzia, which is a labyrinth of alleyways, outdoor cafés and restaurants primarily located around the imposing Church of St. Nicolas.
My advice is to lose yourself down the meandering cobbled streets encased by crumbling sandy yellow and orange-hued walls. Adding to scenes worthy of a postcard are the pink-petalled bougainvillea trees that burst into bloom once spring arrives on the island.
Relax at the Venetian Harbour overlooking the Lighthouse
A scenic stroll along the sea wall will give you a completely different perspective of Chania that culminates at the Lighthouse at the end of its peak.
From any direction, the view of the Lighthouse is even more enchanting at night, with the romantic city lights reflecting off the tranquil waters.
In the month of May the harbour has just the right amount of buzz to soak up the city’s energy, however, I suspect at the height of summer this will definitely be the busiest part of town.
Immerse yourself at the Archeological Museum
To truly understand Chania’s impressive history, a visit to the Archaeological Museum of Chania is a must.
In order to display a wider array of archeological items, the museum reopened in a brand-spanking new space just outside the Old Town a couple of years ago.
Inside you will uncover the gems of the Minoan civilisation, a Bronze Age civilisation that flourished 3000 years ago. Known for its monumental architecture and symbolic art, it is often regarded as the first civilisation in Europe.
As well as findings from the Minoan culture, the museum also presents a varied collection from different eras including Cycladic, Greek, Hellenistic, and Roman.
My favourite find at the museum was a set of scales called ‘Weighing of the Souls’. Supposedly, after a person’s death their good and bad actions would be weighed to determine their fate after death. Now that’s what you call retribution, eh? Looks like I better start behaving myself!
Explore the ancient ruins of Aptera
The archeological museum is complimented perfectly with a trip to Aptera Archaeological Site.
This ancient city, located about 15 kilometres east of Chania, boasts impressive ruins from the Minoan, Greek, and Roman periods. Highlights include the ancient theatre, Roman cisterns, and the monastery of Agios Ioannis Theologos.
As you wander around the sprawling ruins, and see the evidence of the city that was once living and breathing, you begin to appreciate the vast history that spun the sails of Western Civilisation.
Adding to the enjoyment of being on the site are the 360 degree panoramic views, with the majestic White Mountains on one side and the shimmering blue hues of Souda Bay on the other. All of which are perfectly tied together with an abundance of olive groves.
Coastal walking & hidden caves
I never knew that there were so many hiking opportunities within close proximity to Chania.
If you only do one hike in Chania, make it the hike from Gouverneto Monastery to Katholiko Beach. It’s a 4.5km out-and-back loop that also takes you through Arkoudospilio Cave and Katholiko Monastery before culminating at a secluded beach.
For a relatively short hike, you really get to experience the best of Crete’s diverse and rugged terrain. The sea was one of my favourite parts of the scenery stretching endlessly into the horizon. It was constantly clear, still, warm, and bright blue.
Read more → Hike From Gouverneto Monastery to Arkoudospilio Cave & Katholiko Bay in Crete
Make sure to go inside Arkoudospilio Cave also locally known as ‘Bear Cave’ named after one of the bear-like rock formations that dwells inside.
The entrance is a little hidden but there’s a large ruin outside to mark its location. Inside the cave opens up to showcase an enormous cavern filled with spectacular stalagmites and stalactites. It’s an incredible vision, like something straight out of Werner Herzog’s film, The Cave of Forgotten Dreams.
The best way to get here is by car. The trail head will take approximately 35 minutes to reach from Chania city centre.
Relax on the beach
Chania boasts some of Crete’s most beautiful beaches, each offering its own unique charm. Whether you’re looking for a lively beach with amenities or a secluded cove, you’ll find the perfect spot to soak up the sun.
Here are a few places to get your boost of vitamin-D:
Nea Chora Beach: Located just a short walk west of the Old Town, Nea Chora Beach is a popular spot for both locals and tourists. The sandy beach is lined with tavernas serving fresh seafood, making it a great place to spend the day.
Balos Lagoon: Balos Lagoon is known for its stunning turquoise waters and breathtaking scenery. Located on the Gramvousa Peninsula approximately 50km from Chania, it’s accessible by boat from Kissamos or by a 30-min hike. The effort is well worth it for the incredible views.
Elafonissi Beach: I didn’t get chance to visit this beach but it certainly gives me a reason to return. It’s famous for its pink sand and crystal-clear waters. It’s located about 75 km southwest of Chania and can be reached by car or bus. The shallow lagoon is perfect for swimming and snorkeling.
Agia Triada Monastery & optional wine tasting
After your hike, it’s time to treat yourself. Less than 10 minutes away from the trail head lies the radiant Agia Triada Monastery that rises from the vineyards like an amber gemstone.
The Monastery is still an active monastic community, with monks living and working within its walls. The monks are dedicated to the preservation of the monastery’s religious and cultural heritage, as well as to the production of high-quality organic products, including olive oil, wine, honey, and vinegar. These products are made using traditional methods and can be purchased in the monastery’s shop, providing a unique opportunity to take home a piece of Cretan tradition.
Within the cellars, visitors can satiate their inner Bacchus by enjoying an exceptional wine tasting experiencing. All the ohhs and ahhs and expressions of pure delight expressed by my fellow travel travel bloggers certainly spoke to the wine’s quality.
The bread, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar stole the show for me, and I bought what my small travel bag would allow me to stuff inside. I think the difference between the olive oil you get in the UK compared to Greece is incomparable, and at a fraction of the price.
What to eat in Chania
The Mediterranean diet really agrees with my senses. If someone wanted to persuade me to move to Greece, their best argument would be the food. Famously made from the freshest ingredients equating to incredible tasting cuisine. If there’s one aspect of Greek eating that I love the most, it’s the ample use of olive oil. In Greece, they have the best.
There’s so much I have to say about the distinct cuisine and places to eat in Chania. So much so, I’ve written some highlights below.
You can also read more here → A Foodie’s Guide to Chania and Cretan Cuisine.
Bougatsa
A much-loved breakfast staple all over Greece is bougatsa but different regions offer variations of the dish. Before being stuffed with cheese (in Chania local mizithra cheese is used), the dough is tossed in the air to ensure the phyllo is as thin as possible to get that all important light, crunchy texture. Once it is taken out of the oven it’s typically sprinkled with sugar or cinnamon before served.
Best place to go: I popped over to Bougatsa Chania to see how they make it from scratch. This place has been rolling out bougatsa every morning since 1922. It was famously featured in Antony Bourdain’s No Reservation series.
Dakos
Another little cheesy number. Sorry to all you vegans out there…. Cretans love their cheese!
Dakos, also known as “koukouvagia,” is a traditional Cretan dish. It consists of a barley rusk soaked in olive oil and topped with finely chopped tomatoes, crumbled feta or mizithra cheese, and oregano. It’s a refreshing and flavourful appetiser that reminded me of the well-known Italian antipasto, bruschetta.
Best place to go: Make your way to the newly opened Fourgotos that overlooks the harbour. It’s also the perfect place to sample a wide variety of cheeses made in Crete.
Seafood dishes
Bring the Agean to your plate. I already knew that seafood was a large part of the Greek diet after my gastromanic safari around Athens, but Cretans have relied on the sea as a primary source of sustenance for centuries.
You’ll find an array of fresh seafood all around Crete, but I want to draw your attention to seafood gnocchi. While this isn’t a traditional Cretan dish per se, it was the single tastiest dish I ate in Chania – and that’s no easy feat considering how much I managed to put away.
Best place to go: Treat yourself to dinner at Arismari. It was one of the best restaurant I went to, and not only for the seafood gnocchi. Their style is contemporary Cretan cooking made with traditional local ingredients.
Arrangements were made for me to stay at Pilot Beach Resort as featured on Jet2holidays. It’s a firm-favourite by holiday-makers travelling with them to Chania.
The resort offers everything you’d want for a relaxing holiday. You can literally step out of your room and within a minute you’re on the beach blissfully overlooking endless sea views. Adding to the sense of relaxation is the pool area – the perfect spot to top up your tan over a good book and a cocktail or two.
It’s important to note that the resort is located approximately 40-minutes’ drive from Chania, so a car-hire would be good addition for those who want the freedom of exploring further afield.
If you want a mix of beach life and the hustle and bustle of the city, a great option would be to stay here for a few nights, combined with an additional night or two staying within Chania’s Old Town.
Would I return to Crete?
Absolutely. While Chania was my first introduction to Crete, it certainly won’t be my last. One big reason for returning is to hike through the 16 km Samaria Gorge, the largest gorge in Europe.
While I experienced a lot in a few days, I feel like there are still so many more layers of this beautiful island to peel back. To pilfer Arnie’s famous catchphrase, I’ll be back.
Further information
How to get there: I flew to Chania from London Stanstead Airport. However, if you don’t live near Stanstead, you can find flights to Chania with Jet2 from a wide range of local airports in the UK. You can purchase single flights for as little as £50 depending on when you go, or you can travel with them on an all inclusive holiday. Take a look at their options.
Transport: I recommend hiring a car if you want to explore the surrounding nature of Chania.
Further reading: For more Greece-inspired articles, browse through my archive.
