In the heart of Buenos Aires, stands The National Library of Argentina, a monumental structure embodying the raw power and striking aesthetics of brutalist architecture.
The landmark is also known as the Mariano Moreno National Library in honour of Mariano Moreno, who became a central figure in the Primera Junta, the first independent government of Argentina established after the overthrow of the Spanish Viceroy during the May Revolution.
Throughout history, the library has moved between several locations. The current location, and hopefully last is built on the former site of Palacio Unzué, known for being the final resting place of Eva Perón.
Needless to say, the building is a part of Argentine history, captivating for both its long history and commanding architectural presence. Famous directors of the library have included writers Jorge Luis Borges, Luis Chorroarín, Paul Groussac, and Gustavo Martínez Zuviría. With a love for both Brualism and Borges, I made it a priority to visit whilst I was in Buenos Aires.
From conception to construction: Three decades in the making
The construction of the National Library of Argentina in its latest form was a complex and lengthy process that spanned several decades. The initial plan was conceived in the 1960s after a design competition was held in 1962. Architects made up of Clorindo Testa, Francisco Bullrich, and Alicia Cazzaniga won the competition. The main architect, Corina Testa (1923 – 2013), is credited with helping bring the Brutalist movement to Argentina.
However, due to various challenges, including financial constraints and political changes in Argentina, the construction of the National Library faced significant delays. The actual construction work began in the 1970s, but the project halted multiple times and experienced interruptions, particularly during the military dictatorship from 1976 – 1983, that extended the overall timeline.
After several decades of intermittent construction, the National Library of Argentina was finally completed and inaugurated in 1992. It took approximately 30 years from the initial design competition to the final completion of the building.
Public reception of the design
When it finally opened to the public in 1992, the building’s brutalist appearance and idiosyncratic details, stairwells, ramps and retro-futuristic features divided public opinion, although it’s lauded by architects as one of the country’s most pioneering examples of Brutalist architecture, along with Testa’s other landmarks, The Bank of London and the Naval Hospital.
While the National Library stands as a remarkable example of brutalist architecture, for many Argentines it is also a testament to the persistence and vision of the architects and those involved in its 30+ year construction.
“In countries people are different which make cities different. The city is like that because its people are like that.”
~ Clorindo Testa
Interior & exterior of the National Library of Argentina
While it’s easy to be impressed by the size of the concrete building, all the smaller details made me stick around for another hour to take it all in. The spiral concrete steps on the outer building is nothing short of beautiful. There are several circular windows that gave me submarine vibes, and rectangular windows rimmed with thick protruding cement blocks.
A few mirrors have been added to the facade. They work well to enhance the greenery around the library, and on a superficial level the mirror made for a good selfie and a convenient place to reapply my lippy!
The grounds are also lovely. Visitors can relax on the grass, catch shade under the trees or read a book on one of the benches. There are several striking statues as well, of Borges and other important literary figures from South America.
I wasn’t sure if I would be able to have a look inside, but I thought I would give it a shot. I just needed to show my passport and fill out a short form and they said I could visit the exhibition floor. There are six floors, and one of them had a nice exhibition about literary figures including Borges, Camus and Cortazar. The stairwell also had some really nice features including an elegant wooden banister and a curved concrete newel.
If you’re looking for more things to do in the city, check out this 3-day Buenos Aires guide.
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