A Boat Trip Safari to Von Post Glacier in Svalbard

While donning a bright red waterproof shell suit and a pair of oversized wellies, I hobbled into the boat and plonked myself down. Never before had I felt like a giant prawn, but there’s a first for everything.

The guide was revving up the engine, and anticipation was in the air. I was ready to see my very first glacier: Von Post Glacier in Svalbard.

After going on a few boat safaris, I’ve discovered the back row of seats are the best place for a smoother ride (especially if it’s a RIB boat), so I did exactly that.

As I managed to secure one of these seats I couldn’t help smiling to myself as I watched the front seats being taken up (sorry, I’m a terrible person!).

The RIB boat safari

The seating at the back is like a small leather sofa with enough room for three people, while all other seats are shaped in the style of a horse’s saddle which you then straddle over.

Each seat is equipped with a handlebar for safety. When the boat is going fast and the sea is rough, your hands will be glued to the handlebar. You’ll be bobbing up and down and careening from side to side. It feels more like you’re riding a wild horse.

Thankfully, our ride on the Isfjord was smooth. The boat glided through the water with virtually no bumps and crashes.

Our guide from Spitsbergen Travel stopped every so often to allow us to take photos and talk a little more about the Arctic wildlife and the basic geology of the landscape.

Unfortunately, the combination of the wind and ‘prawn suit’ blocked out a lot of sound so I found it quite difficult to hear him at times.

However, watching him talk, I couldn’t help feel a sense of awe and a tiny tinge of jealousy. I mean, imagine being able to call this magnificent place home? A place where you can call polar bears, walruses, puffins and whales your neighbour. Only another 2500 people on earth can say the same thing.

Being on an open boat, it was only a matter of time before the cold started to numb my face and my eyes watered against the cold wind. Combining this with the salty sea spray, it was like having a very expensive exfoliation!

Spotting wildlife

We passed cliffs teaming with birds, and saw cute little puffins bobbing up and down on the gentle waves before arriving at Sassenfjord leading towards Von Post Glacier.

You know you’re approaching the glacier because flocks of birds who feed from the small algae and insects that grow from the ice swoop, circle and squawk in the area to collect food. The dynamic nature of glacier-fed ecosystems provides a consistent supply of food for birds. Whether it’s fish, invertebrates, or other organisms, the availability of prey supports a diverse bird population.

Von Post Glacier

But the most recognisable thing about moving closer to Von Post Glacier is how the sea goes from being smooth to encrusted with ice floes which create loud crunching noises as the boat wades past them.

When it appeared I was captivated by the width and strength of it. Colours of frozen white, blue and grey immersed from the sea and appeared like a barrier to another world.

Since we were only using a relatively small open boat we didn’t get too close due to ice calving and the potential waves that can cause a boat to capsize. Apparently the bluer parts of the glacier indicate areas where ice calving has recently occurred.

Our guide told us that most of the glaciers in Svalbard are under 3000 – 4000 years old. Over 5000 years ago the average temperature in Svalbard was around 4 degrees warmer than today so many of today’s glaciers would not have existed. This surprised me, as I thought it would have been the opposite way around – that it was colder all those years ago.

Von Post Glacier is one of the smallest glaciers in Spitsbergen, being between 1500 – 2000 years old. In retrospect, I missed the opportunity to ask him about the more recent concerns of climate change. I know the question’s a bit of a mood killer but I’m interested in the challenges it might bring to the Arctic landscape, including the reduction of these almighty glaciers.

Stopping for lunch at Bjonahamna beach

After about two hours on the boat we stopped off at Bjonahamna beach for lunch. Surprised that beaches exist so far up in the Arctic? I certainly was.

Lunch consisted of a variety of packet dinners. They’re simple to make. You just need to add hot water and wait for a few minutes. It’s the stuff that people often take on long hiking expeditions and camping.

I made a good choice with Chilli Con Carne. It was a surprisingly tasty ‘dish’ once the hot water had softened and warmed the rice, mince and kidney beans. At this point, I was also thankful to have something toasty to hold and warm up my hands.

Toilet break

Before we decended back into the boat, two people from our crew felt the urge of nature calling. Without a designated bathroom for miles around, it was less than ideal. However, they waddled over behind a large boulder in the distance for some privacy.

They took a long time, but it wasn’t altogether surprising with so many layers to undo. I might have taken a toilet break myself, but the prospect of stripping off in the cold did not appeal to me. 

While I did need a wee, I knew it would just be my luck that the moment I pulled down my pants a Polar Bear would appear and come charging toward me. I could see the headlines already, “Tourist mauled to death by a Polar bear as she goes to the toilet”, or something to that effect.

Could you imagine! Nope, I wasn’t prepared to take the risk.

The task of going to the toilet is so much easier for the men! Our tour guide proved this when he took to peeing directly into the sea. How charming!

If you liked this post, you’ll also enjoy: How to get to Perito Moreno Glacier from El Calafate (Patagonia)

Would you like to do a boat trip to Von Post Glacier in Svalbard?