Living in a Cave in Petra (or Sleep in One as a Tourist)

Traditional cave dwelling in Petra

For thousands of years people have slept inside the caves that you can still see in Petra’s extraordinary landscape. However, thirty-five years ago the Jordanian government relocated the cave dwelling community to Wadi Musa, a nearby village two kilometres away, in an attempt to preserve Petra.

Shortly after Petra was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The people who relocated – the Bedul tribe – are the only people allowed to sell or work inside Petra. I got the sense that this was a form of compensation if they agreed to move.

However, from speaking to a few Bedouins, I am told that a few families do still live inside the caves of Petra’s main site despite the tighter restrictions. He said a lot of people didn’t want to move. Petra has been their home for generations and they don’t want to give up their way of life.

Instead of adapting to more comfortable living quarters as predicted they would, many who relocated decided to maintain their tradition by finding another cave to call home.

How to sleep in a cave nearby Petra

I wasn’t aware of Petra’s cave dwelling tradition until I arrived at the archaeological site and spoke to the locals. Adding to this, I discovered that some cave owners open their home up to tourists so they can experience what it is like to sleep in a cave in villages such as Umm Sayhun.

There are even one or two more entrepreneurial among them who have listed their homes on Airbnb. Cool, right?

I was disappointed to learn all this afterwards, because spending a night inside one of these unique living quarters would have been extremely interesting to experience.

Explore the caves inside Petra’s main archeological site

If, like me, you have already booked your accommodation in Petra, that doesn’t mean you should miss out on exploring the caves.

For the curious minded it’s difficult not to look inside each cave you pass. Most of time they’re just empty, or maybe you’ll find a donkey or two retreating from the sun. The best cave I came across sits opposite the great Monastery.

Make sure to scramble up to the cave. There, you can settle for a while because this cave really does have the ultimate view. Also, you’ll want to rest after finishing the ten-kilometre hike to the Monastery from Petra’s entrance (or via the spectacular back entrance of Little Petra!)

When you walk inside Petra and you’re surrounded by glimpses of the past. It’s difficult not to appreciate the culture and the fascinating way of life that is so different to our own back home.

Tradition, heritage, and the overwhelming craftsmanship is the most beautiful part of experiencing Petra. Unlike most cities in the world, you can imagine what it may have looked like two thousand years ago, an image that isn’t too dissimilar to what we see now.

In Little Petra we spotted a well preserved underground water cistern, something unbelievably advanced for its time. Unfortunately I don’t have any photos below the ground. I can tell you after peering my head inside, that its very cavernous and goes very deep.

Bedouin hospitality

Many faces look well worn by life, but we are told from the younger Bedouins, many of whom have impeccable English, that life is enjoyed, and they wouldn’t wish to be anywhere else.

He also told us that many of the people who leave their home in Petra return years later because they cannot forget the happiness they felt growing up in a cave with their family and only a few donkeys and a flock of goats. I was really happy to hear their desire for a simpler life brought them back.

Anyone who engages with the local Bedouins will realise that hospitality is in their blood, ingrained from the harshness of desert life. They carry sentiment that no traveller should be turned away. 

Thankfully, this high standard of hospitality is widespread throughout Jordan. People welcome you with open arms, they smile at you, and everyone is eager to help a stranger.

Don’t get me wrong, I agree that advances in science and technology are needed to push a society, but now our actions seem to be irriversibly impacting the planet. Now might be a good idea to learn a thing or two from the Bedouin way of life.

It really does seem that in the face of modernisation, preservation has become a sinking world. Though visiting Petra reminds me that not everywhere is like this. The Bedouins seem to be preserving our own environment with their simpler way of life.

Cave or hotel accommodation in Petra

Cave accommodation: I have seen a couple advertised on Airbnb so be sure to check the website.

Hotel Accommodation in Petra (if you don’t manage to sleep in a cave!):  I recommend Petra Guest House Hotel, located on the doorstep of the Petra’s entrance. The really good thing about this hotel is the Cave Bar set inside a restored 1st century Nabatean house. It offers a gorgeous al fresco setting to relax with a cocktail after a day of exploration.

Read more blogs about Jordan

Want more information about Jordan? See more 1-week travel itinerary, including Amman, Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea.

Looking for adventure? Read about hiking from Little Petra to the Monastery.

Would you like to sleep in a cave in Petra?