A guide to exploring Naples
Naples has all the gems of famous Italian cities – imposing churches, grand piazzas and beautiful architecture – and despite this it also has some critics.
While it might lack the elegance of Florence and the famous monuments of Rome, it does have bags of character and lots to offer within a short distance away from the city.
It’s often said you’re either going to love or hate Naples. I love it. What’s more, there’s so much to do in the surrounding area.
Though I regrettably didn’t get a chance to explore the Amalfi Coast, I took the opportunity to visit the historical sites of Herculaneum and Pompeii, both famously wiped out by the devastating eruption of Vesuvius.
In this 3-day itinerary I’ve brought together a little bit of everything to ensure you get to experience various facets of this city which often get overlooked for reasons that are beyond me.
Day 1 | Explore Naple’s Old Town
Morning in Naples
Start by walking up the alleyway of Port’Alba, a well-known passage that begins in Dante Piazza and leads through to Naples’ historic centre.
The most immediate attraction is Piazza Bellini. Here, you’ll find excavations of the city ruins and a collection of cafes. Due to the nearby university, the area is popular with students making it prime time to perch your bottom and enjoy a quick coffee and chilled atmosphere.
One of the first things you’ll notice about Naples is the cafe culture followed by the graffiti which is omnipresent around the city. Not all of it is good either, but it does give the city a curious edge.
For the next few hours get lost within the maze of the old town, making sure to potter down the city’s narrow alleyways and picturesque courtyards filled with cobbled stones and monuments. Don’t miss the following:
Spaccanapoli – This street is easily spotted from any vantage point in Naples as the pedestrian walkway that cuts a straight line through the historical centre. Mentioned often in Ferrante’s Neapolitan novels, it is still a bustling street where locals spend their leisure time.
Capella Sansevero – This museum houses some incredible sculptures; the Veiled Christ is the most famous and the Disillusion is equally impressive.
Church of Gesù Nuovo – This church blew the socks off my feet. No words can do it justice so take a look at the photo below for proof.
Afternoon in Naples
Lunch: On your first day delve straight into the very thing Naples is most famous for: Pizza! There are many joints to get the perfect slice of pizza but head to L’ Antica Pizzeria da Michele, this pizzeria was featured in the book Eat, Pray, Love and is considered the city’s finest.
Nearby L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele take the short walk to one of Naple’s most famous pieces of street art. The Neapolitan artist Jorit Agoch has made a huge mural of an ‘ordinary’ local worker dressed as San Gennaro, the patron saint of Naples.
If shopping is your thing, the open-air shopping mall of Galleria Umberto I is the place for you.
The domed glass ceilings and ornate interior seem more like a royal palace than a place to shop the latest fashions.
In the late afternoon make your way to Fontanelle cemetery. There are several crypts and various kinds of cemeteries in Naples but this one is probably the most striking, plus it’s free to enter.
Currently holding an estimated eight million bones, it was first used during the plague in 1656, before becoming the city’s main burial site during the cholera epidemic of 1837. Now it is a place to worship the dead and pray for their souls. Admittedly I didn’t do any praying but it was no less a feast for the eyes!
Related: A Visit to Capuchin Crypt in Rome
Evening in Naples
Dinner: After you’ve had a little rest after a day of sightseeing head back out to explore the culinary offerings of Naples. I recommend booking a table at Osteria Da Carmela for a delicious selection of seafood and Neapolitan dishes.
Read more → Eating in Naples: From Pizza Pilgrim to Coffee Seeker
Day 2 | Hike to Vesuvius & Explore Haerculaneum
Full day excursion
In the morning take the 25-minute train from Garibaldi Station to Ercolano Scava which is the nearest station to Mount Vesuvius (the volcano) and Herculaneum.
Upon exiting the station you’ll see a bus company that offers trips to the volcano. They depart quite frequently so there’s no need to buy advanced tickets, we simply rocked up and paid 20 Euros for a return ticket which also included the entrance fee for the hike.
By any standards the hike up the volcano is pretty easy and takes about 25-minutes to reach the top and even less walking back down.
The landscape is stunning, but unfortunately it was a pretty cloudy day when we arrived. I imagine the view across the whole of Naples on a clear and sunny sunny day looks breath-taking. Though clouds or no clouds, the craggy cliffs, volcanic rock and striking views of the volcano offered a rewarding experience and some pretty fun photo opportunities.
Once the bus drops you back off by the station make the short walk down the main street to Herculaneum’s excavation site. It is a sister-site to Pompeii; buried by the same eruption of Vesuvius in AD 79 which also destroyed Pompeii. Smaller, and with less tourists, you can really get up close and personal with the tragedy that engulfed the area here. Perhaps because we were in Naples at the end of January, we saw visually no other visitors.
After you’ve finished sightseeing, hop back on the train to Naples before evening.
Evening in Naples
Dinner: Head to one of the restaurants nearby Plaza Bellini. I suggest seafood pasta at La Stanza del Gusto which is typically served al dente followed by a few cocktails at Libreria Berisio located a short walk away inside the alleyway of Port’Alba.
Day 3 | National Archaeological Museum and Pompeii
Early morning in Naples
The National Archaeological Museum has a lot of the treasures recovered from Pompeii over the years and it’s a good complement before your visit to Pompeii.
It has many of the artefacts from Pompeii and the famous large mosaic of Alexander the Great and King Darius and the Farnese Bull, the largest single sculpture yet recovered from antiquity.
Rest of the day
Following the same route as yesterday, take the 50-minute train from Garibaldi Station to Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Misteri (passing Ercolano Scava).
Pompeii was a small prosperous town, little did the residents know that the mountain in their vicinity was actually a volcano that loomed above. In 79 AD, Mt. Vesuvius erupted. While the magma and heat blast burnt and destroyed the neighbouring city of Herculaneum, Pompeii got poisoned by an ash rain. Everyone in town suffocated and died due to the eruption. The ash rain continued and buried the whole town.
The town stayed buried under till 1599. Then it was excavated. Because of the ash cloud, the ancient city remained preserved for centuries. Over years the city has been excavated and now has been restored to a great extent.
To get back into Naples, simply travel on the train back to Garibaldi Station and onwards to the appropriate station near your hotel (if it’s near Dante Piazza / Bellini Piazza, you’ll want to get off at the station called Dante Piazza).
Your last night in Naples
Dinner: On your last night I suggest heading to Trattoria Speranzella. Like many restaurants in Naples, it’s particularly small and intimate so I suggest calling up first to avoid disappointment. They offer a selection of home made wines, the perfect indulgence to end your trip in Naples!
Bar: On your final night in the city treat yourself to the ruby-red Martini Negroni Rubino at the bar Happening.
Thinking of going to Naples?
Fly with: Easyjet from a selection of international airports.
On Arrival: You can either get a taxi or catch the shuttle bus to Naples Central Station. From there catch the metro to your hotel. If you’re staying around Piazza Bellini get the metro to Piazza Dante.
Stay at: Hotel Piazza Bellini & Apartments offers contemporary design in the context of a charming palazzo with good facilities at a reasonable price. The location is ideal for anyone who wants to experience the vibrant, beating heart of Naples’ centro storico, and some of the city’s best restaurants nearby. The National Archeological Museum is also within walking distance.
Want to book a guided tour? Take a look at everything that’s available for you to get the most out of your trip to Naples fuss free by booking one of these tours.
One Response
Thank you, Madam !