The more I see of the world, the more it appears to be filled with magic and endless wonder. I feel this is especially true for India. Fewer places have captured my imagination in the way it can. A land filled with never-ending surprises, soul-stirring experiences and inexplicable attractions.
One such place that encapsulates this sentiment is the historical city of Mamallapuram (also known as Mahabalipuram). Among its many attraction is Krishna’s Butter Ball, a 20-foot tall rock that precariously perches on a steep slope, defying all notions of gravity.
Arriving at Krishna’s Butter Ball
As soon as Elsa and I landed in Chennai airport, we waded through the crowds and jumped in a taxi. We were on a mission. It had been a long flight to get here, but the excitement of being in a new place helped fight off the affects of jet lag.
With Mamallapuram being only 75km south of Chennai, it didn’t take long until we found ourselves face to face with the iconic landmark. It’s a curious sight to behold and impossible to miss.
The boulder is surrounded by other ancient monuments and sculptures, making it part of a larger cultural and historical experience. While all the other famous monuments stand out for their craftsmanship and artistry, Krishna’s Butter Ball stands out for defying scientific explanation.
The Origin of Krishna’s Butter Ball
Krishna’s Butter Ball or Vaanirai Kal (Stone of the Sky God), as it is known to locals, has been sitting on a 45-degree slope in Mamallapuram for over 1,300 years and no one knows exactly how it got there.
According to Hindu mythology, when the great god Krishna was just a baby, he had a cheeky habit of stealing butter. Following this tradition, the huge rock is seen as a giant dollop of churned butter dropped by the god.
While some believe it was placed in its position by the Gods who wanted to prove their power, or by extra terrestrial beings thousands of years ago, popular consensus follows that of geologists.
Scientific experts claim the rock is simply a natural formation caused by erosion to produce a ventifact. What do I believe? Well, as much as I enjoy the affectionate tale of Krishna’s Butter Ball, I’m swayed by the science.
The rock’s unusual balancing act really does look like it’s been truly exempt from gravitational force. So much so, it doesn’t surprise me why people believe in the power of supreme intervention. Krishna’s Butter Ball is a seemingly impossible balancing act.
However, scientists have said, if you know where to look, it’s possible to see the centre of gravity well within its sphere at some angles. To be honest, you’d have to be an expert to notice.
Attempted removal
Due to its precarious position, numerous attempts to dislodge the huge rock have taken place to no avail.
One of the first individuals to attempt to dislodge the round stone was the Pallava king Narasimhavarman, who ruled southern India from 630 to 668AD.
Not for a lack of trying, the mission was unsuccessful, and a similar endeavour was undertaken in 1908 by the Governor of Madras, Arthur Lawley. He feared for the safety of the town at the base of the hill and is said to have used seven elephants to try to move it, also without any luck. All these attempts have cemented its reputation as immovable.
Unsurprisingly the abnormal rock is popular with tourists and locals, who pose for funny photographs under its base, in an attempt to push it back up the hill!
Further reading → 14 Unique Rocks Formations From Around The World
Where to stay in Mamallapuram
East Raja Street:
This area is close Krishna’s Butter Ball and Arjuna’s Penance. It offers a mix of budget and mid-range accommodations. It’s a quieter option compared to Beach Road but still within walking distance of many attractions.
I opted to stay at Hotel Mamalla Heritage because I wanted to be within walking distance to all the landmarks. I stayed here purely for the location and it did the trick. In general there’s loads on offer accommodation wise outside of the resorts compared to other cities in India. The rooms are clean and spacious. There’s also a pool if you fancy taking a dip.
Sea front:
This area offers stunning views of the Bay of Bengal. It’s the place to stay if you want to be close to the beach. However, it has a more ‘touristy’ feel due to the larger size resorts, so this might be something to consider if you prefer staying somewhere more personable with a local vibe.
You’ll find a variety of hotels, resorts, guesthouses, and restaurants along Beach Road. Staying here will also provide easy access to the beach and the Shore Temple.
If you want to really pamper yourself, take a look at Kaldan Samudhra Palace which pulls out all the stops. It’s located by the seafront 1.5 km North of the Shore Temple, close to Tiger Cave.
Want to explore more rock monuments in Mamallapuram?
Read more → The Cave Temples Of Mamallapuram in India
Want to see more gravity-defying rocks?
Take a look at the Golden Rock in Myanmar as well as 14 Unique Rock Formations from Around the World.
