Along with football supremo, Cristiano Ronaldo, hiking is synonymous with Madeira. There is an abundance of trails to explore on the island and one of the best known is Vereda da Ponta de Sao Lourenco, or simply, PR8.
This 8 km hike (there and back) along a narrow coastal strip to the easternmost point of Madeira guarantees incredible views at literally every direction. The part that makes this strip so mesmerising is the way it juts far out into the ocean and motions up and down like a mythical sea creature. I’ve also heard some people affectionately call it the ‘dragon’s tail’ which sums it up rather perfectly too.
How to get there
The hike begins at the car park in Sao Lourenco, which is approximately 30 minutes away from Funchal.
We took a taxi from Funchal, but many people hire a car. The car park is free, but can get busy depending on the time of year and time of day. If it’s full, you can park further up the road. You can check car hire and prices via Rentalcars.com.
The dramatic formation of the peninsula means you should spot it several times en route to other places during your trip in Madeira. Located near the airport, it’s hard to miss, and it’ll likely be the first and last attraction that greets you on the island.
What to see along Sao Lourenco
As soon as you step foot on the ground, it’s easy to see why it’s one of Maderia’s most popular hiking spots. Wild, rugged and dramatic. Exactly the sort of landscape I was pining for after being holed up in London against my wishes. The whole peninsula is incredibly arid, so it’s strange to imagine it entirely green and brimming with flowers in the winter months.
Rock of Sao Lourenco
It doesn’t take very long before you reach one of the highlights of the hike – the famous rock of Sao Lourenco. It highlights the volcanic erosion over millions of years throughout the coastline.
This craggy outcrop is one of the best views along the way, but it’s seriously windy in this section.
Every article and blog about Sao Lourenco will tell you that it’s windy and they’re not lying. I’m pretty small, and during some parts of the hike I felt a bit nauseous from being knocked around by its brute force. It’s amusing in hindsight, but at the time I was genuinely concerned. I conjured up images of myself being blown away like Dorothy from the Wizard of Oz!
Ocean views
The path is clearly marked and simple to follow and the more you walk, the more you’re rewarded with different views of the constantly changing coastline.
Make sure you stop and look back every so often, seeing the island from behind offers a gorgeous perspective. The ruggedness of the whole peninsula combined with the ocean views will truly make you in awe of nature’s diversity.
The Dragon's Tail
Another highlight of the hike is a panorama around 2/3 of the way through. It’s a narrow path that eventually sprawls out onto another impressive arm of the peninsula that looks like a dragon’s tail.
It doesn’t take a geology lover to feel inspired by all of nature’s shapes and the naturally occurring colours found in the rocks, ranging from red to orange and beige to black.
Refreshment stop
Toward the end of the hike there’s the a cafe and the only public toilet on the trail. Surrounded by a swath of palm trees against the arid backdrop (there are no other trees on the peninsula), the cafe looked as though it were an oasis.
We stopped for a quick drink and were accompanied by several lizards who were keen to know what refreshments we were drinking. I was happy to share my table with them and we stared at each other curiously.
Detour down to the beach
Instead of retracing our steps back completely, we decided to make a detour by climbing down to the beach.
There are a couple of paths where you’ll spot some fixed ladders and these will lead you safely down to the beach. Keep your eyes peeled for the ladders.
If it were not for the time, and the fact that I didn’t bring any swimwear, I could happily have spent longer relaxing by the sea, skimming pebbles and searching for fossils. Include this, and it’s easy to to spend the whole day at San Lourenco.
How easy is the Sao Lourenco hike?
I would say that this hike is suitable for everyone with moderate fitness. It’s quite a short hike which can be done in approx 3 hours return. However, it’s worth spending the whole day there to take in the magnificent views and relaxing atmosphere. The Sao Lourenco peninsula is one of the most distinct and dramatic coastlines the island has to offer.
All in all, it’s a fairly easy trail, or at least I thought it was compared to doing the peak-to-peak hike the day before that involved heading up Pico Ruivo, Madeira’s highest mountain.
This doesn’t mean it’s no less an adventure, San Lourenco absolutely packs a punch.
Looking for more hiking routes in Madeira?
If you’re looking for other hikes in Madeira, be sure to also check out the beautiful Levada do Caldeirao Verde hike which a relatively gentle hike, but if you want to make it more challenging, you can add on Caldeirao do Inferno which translates to the ‘Devil’s Cauldron’!
Where to stay in Madeira
The best place to stay in Madeira depends on your preferences, interests, and the type of experience you’re seeking. If you’re on the island for a few days, I suggest spending in two locations to see and experience different parts of the island.
As an example, I recommend staying in Funchal, the island’s capital city, followed by somewhere in north of the island such as São Vicente.
These two locations compliment each other perfectly by their contrasts. They enable you to enjoy the cultural and gastronomic attractions of the city, followed by the charm and peacefulness of a small village atmosphere set within nature.
