Is Łódź THE place to be for creative people?

Unless you live in Poland or take a deep interest in films, the likelihood that you know about Łódź is probably quite small, despite it being Poland’s 3^rd largest city. So I want to tell you a little more about this fascinating place and what makes it special.

Little under a year ago, after visiting the city I wrote an article called Łódź: The Black Sheep of Poland or So it Seems… and it really took off, reaching lots of people. One of the most heartening aspects of writing about Łódź was reading all the comments left by Polish people who lived or had lived in the city.

It was clear to see that although underrated, Łódź leaves an indelible impression on those who come into contact with it. Sometimes you have to dig a little deeper to extract the best bits of a city and when you do it somehow feels more rewarding. Saying this, the city seems to be changing at a rapid pace, with more people and companies choosing to invest in the city.

The reason Łódź remains under the radar is simply because it’s not the kind of city that gets featured in the travel section magazine. It doesn’t have a beach or colourful Main Square or markets filled with exotic trinkets and fragrances of a faraway land like other cities have.

Quite frankly, Łódź can be a hard sell. Magazines and tour operators alike prefer to feature destinations that are an easy sell. The kind of places that look beautiful from the get go. As a result fascinating places like Łódź never make it onto the bucket list.

However, Łódź has a lot to offer, especially if you’re creatively inclined. Here are some of the things that creative types, probably like yourself, will enjoy.

Pronunciation: ‘Woodge’ not ‘Wootch’ 

People often trip up over the pronunciation of the city. It’s easy to get wrong. Łódź is pronounced ‘Woodge’ and not ‘Wootch’.

A city for film lovers

I discovered Łódź through my love for David Lynch, a director who’s up there with the likes of Stanley Kubrick, Ingmar Bergman, and Alfred Hitchcock.

Many scenes from his film Inland Empire (2006) were shot in Łódź. Being a huge fan of Lynch, I wanted to embark on a Lynchian pilgrimage to see the locations that inspired and featured his film. Even more than this, I wanted to see and experience the city he called his ‘favourite city in the world’.

That’s a big statement. Surely if it inspired one of the most creative minds of the 21^st Century, it would have some kind of impression on me too?

And there’s no doubt it did. And the city didn’t just remind me of Inland Empire. Scene from his early film Eraserhead (1977) also came to mind too.

Above is a still taken Eraserhead and below is a photo I took of a block of apartment flats. I wasn’t just struck by the visual resemblance, but the whole mood and atmosphere too.

This photo was taken in Lodz in the month of December at -15 degrees. I’ve visited the city in both cold and warm months and I loved exploring the city in both seasons. Though wrap up warm if you are heading here in winter, the chill can run bone-deep!

As you can see, many of the buildings are quite run down but the architecture is nonetheless quite fanciful – revealing the city’s prosperous past. While not everyone’s cup of tea, I think they look very cinematic.

Hotel Grand: the film location for Inland Empire

When I arrived in Łódź I excitedly headed to my hotel. I was staying at the Grand Hotel. This is not just any hotel. Several scenes from David Lynch’s Inland Empire were actually taken from inside the building.

At first I didn’t in my wildest dreams ever expect to stay in the same hotel that was featured in the film. I thought it would be really expensive, but this wasn’t the case. Although I didn’t stay in the Rubenstein Suite (which probably is quite spenny) where the scenes were taken, the hotelier was more than happy to show me inside the room.

Above is a scene from Inland Empire, and below I’m sitting in the same suite but at a different angle. I couldn’t help but imagine David Lynch sitting on the same furniture looking all cool and that.

As its name suggests, the Grand Hotel is a vision of old-fashioned grandeur but it’s tinged with elements of being stuck in a time warp. It’s nothing which a new lick of paint couldn’t fix but in a way I kind of like the ‘faded glory’ aesthetic. It has bags of character. (Update: it has now been renovated, and I hope to check it out soon!).

Want to follow in the footsteps of David Lynch? Explore Łódź and book your stay at the Grand Hotel.

Cinematography Museum

Going back to its film roots, the Cinematography Museum is a must for anyone interested in film and behind-the-scenes production, the highlight of the museum for me is an original 19^th century photo-plasticon which gives you a real sense of how Poland appeared in a different age.

Prestigious film school

Adding to the growing list of reason why I wanted to visit, Łódź is also home to one of the world’s most prestigious film schools. A huge pool of directors have passed through its doors, including, and most famously, Roman Polanski.

However, after reading his autobiography I discovered he didn’t see his future in Łódź and had bigger plans. Hollywood came calling. A desire still adopted by many young people of Łódź who seek employment in more economically thriving places:

When I was young and studied at Łódź Film School, I had only one thought in my head: to leave. I had never imagined my future in Poland I always wanted to leave for the world, to get to know other countries, meet new people. I always assumed that the Earth belongs to me as much as to other people.

~ Roman Polanski

Art museum & galleries

It’s not only Łódź important film heritage that attracts creative types to Łódź, but its burgeoning art scene.

Did you know that Łódź is home to one of the oldest museums of Modern Art in the world? It is without any exaggeration when I say Muzeum Sztuki is the best museum of contemporary art I’ve ever visited, surpassing almost all galleries I’ve been to in London, Berlin and Paris.

In case you’re thinking about visiting, you’ll discover there are two museums of modern art (I know, this city really spoils you). If you’re pushed for time, I would recommend the one located inside the Manufaktura which spans four floors.

Inside you’ll be able to see all forms of art by Picasso, Max Ernst, Hans Arp, Louise Bourgeois and Marina Abramovic to name only a few. I could easily have spent the whole day in there and it probably still wouldn’t have been long enough.

New businesses and start ups cropping up

Addressing the problem of young people leaving Łódź, new business initiatives have been cropping up. As a result, the city has been going through a sort of renaissance with new start ups emerging that champion creative thinking. The result? It gives a reason for the younger generation to stay. Opportunities are growing.

A successful example is the Manufakura. A whooping cotton mill left dilapidated after the demise of the hugely successful industrial era. After years of renovation, it has been converted into an impressive culture and entertainment complex.

Similar, but on a smaller key is Off Piotrkowska. Another converted cotton mill but less commercial and more local (think East London or East Berlin). Here, you’ll find independent shops, design companies and publishing houses.

Street art in Łódź

Last but not least, my favourite aspect of Łódź’s regeneration is in the form of street art. It has become a prominent addition to the urban landscape, a colourful motif of the city’s artistic freedom. These new creative visions for the city are giving it a new identity: cool, creative and full of expression.

History of Łódź Museum

Another museum which I recommend visiting is the History of Łódź Museum. It is set inside a former palace previously owned by a successful textile factory owner. Highlights include a lithograph and painting by Marc Chagall. Most notably, there’s a room dedicated to the pianist Arthur Rubenstein who was born on Piotrkowska Street.

Rubenstein is considered one of the greatest pianists of the 20^th century and their are homages to him all over the city. Viewed as a genius by many, he is noted for his interpretation of Chopin. There is a statue of him playing a piano on the street he was born and a bust of him inside the museum.

Finally, even without all the museums there is something special about Łódz, when all you have is a wintry landscape of leafless trees and a light fog. There’s beauty in the simple things.

Want to know more about Poland’s 3rd largest city? Check out my detailed guide on the best things to do in Łódź.

Are you interested in visiting the creative city of Łódź?