Once I discovered that ‘Caldeirao Verde’ translates to ‘green cauldron’ in Portuguese, I was instantly intrigued. My mind conjured up the image of a witch’s cauldron bubbling to the brim with emerald-coloured potions and the odd hiking boot thrown in for a dash of potency.
After realising that such a scenario might only be possible on a mushroom trip in the Amazon rainforest, my mind wandered to other possibilities as to what this mysterious green cauldron in Madeira could be.
In reality, once I was there I discovered the route to be a concoction of nature’s finest elements; tall waterfalls, winding paths, deep valleys, tight crevices, and tunnels leading up to the top of the trail.
But not everyone goes all the way to the top, strictly speaking, it’s considered a separate hike with an equally necromantic name – the ‘Devil’s Cauldron’, or ‘Caldeiro do Inferno’ as they say in Portuguese.
As suggested, this extra route is for those who have steam left in their engine. It adds another 7 km onto an already 12 km levada hike, but it’s certainly worth it.
So, what's a levada exactly?
I had no idea what levadas were before arriving in Madeira, but it turns out they are incredibly important for the island’s habitation and agriculture. Translating as ‘carriageway’, levadas are little canals that run through the mountains.
Their origin dates back to the 15th century when the first levadas were created for the purpose of providing water to irrigate the sugarcane plantations. Back then, sugar was also known as ‘white gold’ because it fuelled Madeira’s economy in the 15th & 16th century.
Today, the narrow water canals still continue to deliver water to banana plantations, vineyards, fruit orchards and vegetable gardens all around the island. In addition, they also enable the hydro-electric power stations to function. So, yes, they are important to say the least.
For visitors to Madeira, levadas bring a unique dimension to the island. Having a constant running stream of water by your side certainly adds a truly meditative feeling as you walk within nature.
The start of Caldeirao Verde levada walk
Beginning at Queimadas forest park, there’s a gorgeous traditional Madeiran house to highlight the start of the trail. It serves as a cafe and a museum, but as I was keen to get moving I decided I’d stop and explore it on my way back.
The path starts off rather flat and broad. My initial impression was that it pretty but didn’t have the wow factor that came with the San Lourenco Peninsula and the route from Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo.
I hoped the trail would be more dramatic, but I had a stern word with myself that I should just enjoy it without making needless comparisons. As they so wisely say, comparison is the thieve of joy.
I was heading back to the concrete streets of London the next day so this was my final encounter with Madeira’s famed scenery, and was determined to enjoy myself.
While the path initially seemed a bit tame, my opinion soon changed. I began noticing how the flora was flourishing with increasing intensity.
There was a wall on my left-hand side that was completely overgrown with moss. I reached out my hand and it was all bouncy and saturated with droplets of water. This made me feel all excited and happy. I can’t explain why exactly, but it brought me back to my childhood when every small thing was a big discovery.
It wasn’t the kind of tough moss you see growing in stubs across dry-stone walls in the UK. This stuff was really alive. It had tiny, delicate tentacles, like the kind you’d get in a fancy, oversized fish tank in some swanky hotel that I’d never have the money to stay in.
Soon after I spotted a levada, and it was then that I realised how much life they bring to the landscape. Nature was singing its own joyful tune. I imagine if music had been playing, it would’ve been Spring from Vivaldi’s Four Seasons.
Adding to the entertainment was the now changing path. Flanked by the levada on one side and railings on the other to ensure no one could slip into the chasm of dense tree tops below. However, this meant the path was sometimes extremely narrow.
One bonus of the Caledeiro Verde hike is that it’s almost entirely flat or with a tiny incline, which makes this route great for families and people who just want to take it easy. However, it’s not entirely plain sailing. In many spots you might have to literally wait over the levada and balance carefully so you don’t fall in and so that you can let the people from opposite side pass. This can really put your sense of balance to the test. It is not scary at all but there is only a very narrow single lane path in some sections. On a busy day I imagine this would be quite the task but luckily I didn’t have to pass many people.
I thought the swift maneuvering around strangers added a fun element to the hike, and the sheer amount of trees and vegetation occasionally gave the impression of walking through a jungle. Only the temperature was cooler (thankfully) and there are no monkeys swinging from the trees (sadly).
Mind your head as you go through the tunnels
After a while you will come across the first tunnel. The tunnels are almost pitch-black so pack a flash light or your camera torch will also do the trick.
The levadas also pass through them so it can get pretty damp and muddy. There are about 4 tunnels in this walk, all of various lengths, and if you really have a thing for dark tunnels (they’re exciting, right?) then you’ll find more in the next part – the Devil’s Cauldron – should you decide to add this hike on.
Be warned, the roof of the tunnels can be a bit low so do watch your head. I heard a few pained noises and thuds bellowing down the tunnel, but for a midget like me, it wasn’t an issue.
After crossing through the tunnels, the hike gets even more impressive as it closely hugs the mountainside and gets considerably narrow in some places as well. The views get more and more stunning too, as at this stage the canyon narrows and the majestic mountains appear in their full glory. The lush greenery is so so cooling for the eyes and to top it off, you can also marvel at the distant blue ocean merging into the equally blue sky!
End point of Caldeirao do Verde hike
This spectacular hike ends at a tall waterfall which forms into a small pool surrounded by rocks.
Following the ritual of fellow hikers, I found a dry place to enjoy a packed lunch of fruits, crisps and dried nuts with a view of the waterfall in front. There’s always something about the sound of water that has a calming effect. I ate my lunch with a heart full of contentment.
As I sat there hungrily gobbling down my grub I couldn’t help but wonder how much more the water flow must be during spring and autumn. Even at the height of summer the waterfall was magnificent.
If you are brave enough you can also take a refreshing dip in the pool.
Entering the Devil's Cauldron (Caldeirao do Inferno)
After a well deserved spot of resting, you have the option to turn back the way you came, or continue along the ‘Devil’s Cauldron’. I wasn’t ready to finish exploring yet so I decided to soldier on.
Unlike the relatively flat route of the ‘Green Cauldron’, the ‘Devil’s Cauldron’ does have a steeper incline but I still wouldn’t call it hard by any means. Scenery wise, it’s very similar to the first section – gorgeous panoramas and some very narrow paths that hug the wall on one side and offer a sheer drop on the other. The paths have solid railings though so there’s nothing to be worried about.
The only part that made me break up in a sweat was the final part of long steps leading to the top. But it’s worth it. At the top are several long tunnels that each break out to either waterfalls or views between the rocks and mountains. The best part is the noise. When you’re walking through the tunnels, the ground is vibrating under your feet and you can hear a thundering sound from the power of the waterfalls.
There were a lot less people up at the top so it’s a great place to take a dip under the waterfalls compared to the busier one below at Caldeirao Verde. I saw a couple who looked like they were doing a TikTok or Instagram shoot – it was certainly a backdrop to get the ‘likes’.
The route back
It’s a one-way trail and hence I simply walked back the same way to the starting point. But when surrounded by such breathtaking nature, I could hardly complain.
While I was at first disappointed for a lack of drama, I was now rejoicing in the subtle sounds and delights of Mother Nature in rebirth. If this hadn’t been enough to captivate my senses, then nothing would.
2 responses
such an amazing place in world. Its time to visit.
such an incredible blog, Great tip, as always. Thank you so much for sharing your incredible blog. keep sharing, your positivity is infectious.
I’ve done the Caldeirão Verde levada four times (two with an extension to Caldeirão do Inferno) and I’m going back to do it the fifth time.
If you want to “drink nature” from the inside of a pure crystal glass, do this levada and just like it happened to me – the nostalgia of this walk will live forever in your heart.
That’s what Madeira Island is all about… Yha. A constant encounter for those who want, like and can look!
This passion to “see” will remain and blossom in you like the eternal forests of Laurissilva in Fanal, who are also waiting for your embrace…