Buenos Aires, the vibrant capital of Argentina, is a city that captivates visitors with its unique blend of European sophistication and Latin American passion.
Often called the “Paris of South America,” the city is famed for its grand avenues, ornate architecture, vibrant cultural scene, and the warm, welcoming nature of its people – the porteños.
Whether you’re a foodie, a history enthusiast, a lover of the arts, or someone seeking a lively urban adventure, Buenos Aires offers something for everyone.
The city has a wealth of attractions, from art, culture, cuisine, and dance performances. The mix of elegant European influences and lively Latin atmosphere makes Buenos Aires truly distinct. It’s one of my favourite cities and if you’re planning a trip to Buenos Aires yourself, I have no doubt it will shoot to the top of your list of favourite cities too.
I travelled to Buenos Aires with my two friends – Pedro and Lee. Pedro hails from the city so you could say I had my own personal tour guide. Lucky, eh?
Where to stay in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires offers a wide range of neighbourhoods to stay in, each with its own unique character and attractions. Here are some of the best areas to stay in Downtown, along with hotel recommendations:
Palermo
- Why Stay Here: I stayed in Palermo and I absolutely loved it. The streets awash with street art and independent shops. Described as hipsterish, but not in an over-the-top way. It’s a great place to stay if you like your bars and restaurants to stay open late.
- Hotel Recommendation: As the name suggests, Home Hotel this inviting boutique hotel makes you feel as relaxed and staying at your own home – but complete with touches of luxury to make you feel like you’re on holiday.
Recoleta
- Why Stay Here: Recoleta is known for its elegance, upscale ambiance, and beautiful architecture. It’s home to the famous Recoleta Cemetery, upscale shops, art galleries, and museums. Recoleta has a similar feel to Paris which is an excellent choice for those who appreciate a more intimate setting.
- Hotel Recommendation: If you want to stay in Recoleta, it’s probably a good guess to assume the you like a touch an elegance and luxury. Alvear Palace Hotel is and iconic hotel offering a classic Buenos Aires experience.
San Telmo
- Why Stay Here: San Telmo is Buenos Aires’ oldest neighborhood, known for its historic architecture, cobbled streets, vintage shops and vibrant Sunday market at Plaza Dorrego. San Telmo accommodation can be distinctly cheaper than in other neighbourhoods close to the centre, so for budget travellers, this is a great location.
- Hotel Recommendation: Hotel Madero borders San Telmo and the modern neighbourhood of Puerto Madero. Situated with scenic views across the historic docklands which has been recently revamped. This contemporary hotel with waterfront views is great if you enjoy scenic walks by the water.
How to spend 3 days in Buenos Aires
I think Buenos Aires deserves longer than 72 hours. However, these are the things you shouldn’t miss when you’re squeezed for time.
Day 1 – Soho Palermo, famous landmarks & tango
Morning: Soak up the vibrant streets of Soho Palermo
Kick-start your exploration in Soho Palermo where the streets are alive with colourful murals, cool shops and countless cafes. This up-beat neighbourhood wouldn’t feel out of place in a European city like Berlin, London or Amsterdam, but with a punch of South American flair, the atmosphere is even better, I dare say.
Before leaving Palermo, enjoy a scrumptious lunch at El Preferido de Palermo. It’s a beautiful restaurant with pink-washed walls serving traditional dishes like milanesa and fainá. It’s recommended on the Michelin Guide, and yet it’s very affordable comparative to Europe. You don’t have to worry about tiny portions. No one arrives in Buenos Aires trying to lose weight, so don’t even bother trying!
Afternoon: Plaza de Mayo
It’s now time for the big monuments starting with the iconic Plaza de Mayo. This main square is home to so much history and so many iconic Argentina landmarks including the Metropolitan Cathedral where José de San Martín is buried.
San Martín is considered a national hero of Argentina and Peru, known as one of the Liberators of Spanish South America.
In the square is also Casa Rosada (Pink House), the star of the show. The pink government house is famous for Madonna singing “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina” from its main balcony during her depiction of the First Lady in the film Evita. It is open for guided tours on Saturdays.
Late afternoon: Immerse yourself in art
Fans of art will not be disappointed in Buenos Aires, and MALBA is the place to get your fix. It has a large contemporary collection comprising of paintings, photography, sculptures and installations from all over Latin America. Inside you will find pieces by Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera and international artists such as Louise Bourgeois and Lucio Fantana.
If your tastes are more classical, then Bella Artes might be the better choice for you. Masters such as van Gogh, El Greco, Monet, Picasso, and a panorama of Argentine art are here on display. What’s more is the free entry to appease those on a budget.
Evening: A night of tango
You can’t come to Buenos Aires without attending a tango show. It would be like going to Cuba and missing live salsa.
I once read that ‘Dancing is creating a sculpture that is visible only for a moment’ and this is especially true for Tango. It truly is an art form that one shouldn’t miss on in Buenos Aires. Tango clubs and bars are tightly woven into the tapestry of Argentine life and culture.
For a rather decadent affair, I opted to see a Tango show at the beautiful theatre of Galería Güemesis, a famous spot to experience quintessential tango. If you’re feeling brave you can also hit one of the clubs and try it for yourself afterwards. Just remember, confidence is key!
If you’re looking for the full works, take a look at these tango shows in Buenos Aires that you can prebook before your trip.
Day 2 – Visit the Botanical Gardens, a famous bookshop and Recoleta Cemetery
Morning: Stroll around the Botanical Gardens
After hitting the big landmarks yesterday, it’s time to soak up some tranquility. There are a number of charming green spaces but the botanical gardens in Palermo is among the best with its exotic flowers and Japanese Garden.
A bit further out, the Barrancas de Belgrano offer excellent paths for jogging, relaxing, or people-watching. Close by you’ll also find Galileo Galilei planetarium that looks like a UFO ship. It’s one of the city’s most unique designs and superbly fit for studying our solar system.
Afternoon: Pitstop at Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop & a visit to Recoleta Cemetery
As the famed Argentinean writer, Jorge Borges once said, “I have always imagined that Paradise will be a kind of library”. If there’s one place that captures the words of Borges the most in Buenos Aires, it’s Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop.
Book lovers will be catapulted into a world of hollywood glamour, as soon as they step foot inside this former theatre turned bookshop.
Considered one of the world’s most beautiful cemeteries, 2nd only to Père Lechaise in Paris, Recoleta Cemetery is filled with fascinating stories from bygone years. This cemetery showcases unforgettable architecture and art, deservedly placing it on the top of any Buenos Aires itinerary.
The final resting place of Eva Perón and many of Argentina’s wealthiest and most famous families, you can see this reflected in the size and ornate construction of the tombs.
Further reading: Tales from Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires
Late Afternoon: The Evita Museum
After visiting the resting place of Evita, enrich your knowledge further at the Evita Museum.
The museum building was originally a mansion built in 1923 that the Eva Perón Foundation bought in 1948 to use as a shelter for single women with children. She named the home “Hogar de Tránsito (Temporary Home)”.
In 1999, the building was declared a National Historical Monument. On July 26, 2002, upon the 50th anniversary of the Evita’s death, her grandniece, Cristina Alvarez Rodriguez, opened the Evita Museum. It houses lots her personal objects and details her life in the content of the city’s history.
Evening: River walk & dinner
One of the most recent renovation projects in Buenos Aires is Puerto Madero, brought back to life in the 90s after years of neglect. Stroll along the riverbank and see the latest architectural monuments, including Puente de la Mujer (Women’s Bridge) which was designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.
There are lots of restaurants to choose from in this area, with Chila being among the best. It’s ranked among the 50 best restaurants in the world, so booking in advance is a must!
Day 3 – La Boca & San Telmo
Morning: Capture the colours of La Boca
Most of the photos you’ve seen of Buenos Aires in magazines and guide books, were probably of La Boca. This part of the city gets really colourful, making people flock to get those Insta shots. But this means it’s also the most touristy neighbourhood in Buenos Aires so bear this in mind by going early in the day.
To be honest, I’m in two minds about adding the La Boca area of Buenos Aires to this 3-day itinerary because it wasn’t my favourite place purely because it felt a little too touristy. This being said, La Boca looks completely different to anywhere else so I’m going to include it.
History of La Boca
In its early beginnings, dock workers and many immigrants arriving to the city decided make La Boca home. Wealthy families fled to the northern suburbs during the yellow fever outbreak in the 1700’s. Less fortunate families were left behind in southern neighbourhoods like La Boca.
Due to their lack of money, they had to be resourceful when building their homes. You’ll see many houses built from cast-away shipping materials such as planks and corrugated sheet metal.
The people opted to paint their homes. When there wasn’t enough paint of the same colour to cover the entire house, they would use any colour available. This has resulted in a wonderful patchwork effect you still see today.
How to get to La Boca
The easiest way is by taxi because La Boca is far south of the city, so hail a cab on the street or use Uber or Cabify. I got an uber and it took about 50 minutes, but was surprisingly cheap.
What to do in La Boca
It’s all about wandering around the colourful buildings that present themselves like open-air museums. Take a stroll on the few blocks that make up the Caminito, taking photos of the multi-coloured walls and tango dancers.
You can even take your own tango photo with one of the performers for a small price. I didn’t myself, but they do make for a fun and cheesy souvenir if you’re willing to part with your money.
Lots of former homes have now been turned into restaurants and souvenir shops, making La Boca a great place to buy things for friends and family. I spotted lots of tributes to Argentinian icon Madonna – if you have a football obsessed friend, here is a great place to buy them a key ring! Of course, you’ll also find Messi emblazoned on t-shirts and souvenirs too. These guys are virtually Gods in Argentina.
Must try: If you’re looking for a true Argentinean treat, buy a box of alfajores. These are melt-in-the-mouth shortbread-like cookies filled with dulce de leche. No description does them justice. You just have to try them!
Afternoon: Vintage shops and foodie treats at San Telmo
After the colourful and busy streets of La Boca, make your way to white-washed streets of San Telmo. Here you’ll find the perfect mix of relaxation and hustle and bustle, making it one of my favourite spots in the city. You’re probably hungry now, and the perfect place to venture is the indoor food market. There are many stalls specialising in their own delicious dishes, so assess your options first before making your final choice. If you’re similar to me – and love variety – go for smaller tapas-style plates to experience a variety of Argentinean flavours!
Enjoy shopping? Every Sunday a flea market takes place in San Telmo. However, any day of the week there are still an array of vintage shops to whittle away the hours, selling anything from retro furniture to vintage clothing.
I ended up treating myself to two dresses at a beautiful shop called Gil Antiguedades located by the main square. I’m not going to lie, it was quite pricey, but you only live once, eh?
I still wear one of the them all the time so I consider it money well spent. It’s my go-to dress for most occasions. Every time I wear it I’m reminded of my trip to Buenos Aires which always makes me smile.
One of the best places to see outdoor Tango is Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo’s main square. Take a seat at one of the coffee shops and enjoy a dazzling performance from the pros. Make sure to show your appreciation by giving them a tip.
Evening: Steak on the menu & drinks
In the evening, spouse up and head back out to where you began: Soho Palmero. Here you can find several of the best steak houses in the city, I recommend Calden del Soho. Afterwards, finish up with some fancy cocktails to celebrate your final night in what is easily one of the world’s best cities.
Explore more of Argentina
If you’re heading to Argentina and want to read more about what to see and do, check out these blog posts for more recommendations:
- Brutalist architecture: The National Library of Argentina in Buenos Aires
- How to get to Perito Moreno Glacier from El Calafate
- The Incredible Hike to Laguna Torre in El Chalten – Travel Guide
- 5 Reasons to Love Patagonia
- Ushuaia Travel Guide: Journey to the End of the World
