After months spent in London during lockdown, I was beginning to feel like a hamster in a cage with nothing but a plastic wheel to burn off oodles of mounting energy.
My want for some physical adventure and my desire to be closer to nature was growing stronger by the day, so I set myself a challenge and headed up to the Scottish Highlands. I set my sights on climbing Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the UK
However, I knew it wasn’t going to be easy. While I’ve always loved hiking, my previous experiences were limited to relatively flat grounds, so would I really be able to climb the highest mountain in the UK? Would I be fit enough?
Overview of Ben Nevis
Facts & Figures
Ben Nevis stands at an elevation of 1,345 metres (4,413 feet) above sea level, making it the highest peak in the United Kingdom. The peak is part of the Grampian Mountain Range. The mountain used to be an active volcano, until it erupted and collapsed on itself, millions of years ago.
For an average hiker, the ascent and descent usually takes between 7 to 9 hours. This includes breaks for rest and meals.
Routes up Ben Nevis
There are two main routes to reach the summit. The first is the Mountain Track, also known as the the Pony Track. This is the easiest and most common route taken by walkers and the one which I opted to take since I didn’t really know how I’d manage in terms of my fitness. Better to err on the side of caution!
Those looking for a more challenging hike have the option to take the Carn Mor Dearg Arête route which essentially involves climbing two big mountains – Carn Dearg Meadhonach which leads to Ben Nevis via an arête (mountain ridge). You can read about this route here.
Getting to Ben Nevis
Along with my twin brother, I hopped aboard a train from London King’s Cross and within five hours we landed in Glasgow, Scotland’s largest city.
After spending the night in Glasgow, we picked up our car hire in the morning and made the 2 hours 20 minutes drive to Fort William, where the climb up Ben Nevis begins.
It would’ve been ideal to drive straight to Fort William on the day of our arrival to avoid driving on the day of our hike, but since we arrived late in the evening we had no other choice. Fortunately, we had booked a hotel in Fort William for the following day so we could rest our feet and collapse into bed after a long day of hiking.
The drive from Glasgow to Ben Nevis was beyond scenic, hugging coastlines and passing the peak-encrusted valley of Glencoe, one of Scotland’s most beautiful and atmospheric landscapes, easily comparable to the Western Fjords of Norway.
The Mountain Track Route
The Mountain Track starts at the car park near Achintee Farm. There is a pay and display ticket machine that is open 24-hrs. Next to the car park is an Information Visitor Centre and toilets.
I grabbed a map from the visitor centre but I soon realised it wasn’t really necessary because the trail to the top of Ben Nevis is along an easy-to-follow pathway (but under low visibly I would advise a map). To get onto the path you need to walk around the visitor centre and across a small bridge.
After only a few moments of walking, I could already feel the sun beating down on me, I looked at my brother and he glanced back with an expression I recognised: concern. We knew there and then it wasn’t going to be easy, but we were determined. Hot weather has never been a friend of mine, least of all now.
The start of the route is steep and zig-zags its way upwards, over a couple of small streams and curves round, climbing above the valley of the Red Burn towards Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe, a picturesque lake which signals close to the half-way point of Ben Nevis. The views here are spectacular so we stopped for a much needed rest.
Stopping to enjoy the views
Whilst looking sweaty and dishevelled, we talked about how rocky the pathway had been up until this point.
We wondered out loud if it was going to carry on being like this, and out of no where we heard a voice replying to us, “I’m afraid it is!”, we swiftly looked around and saw this tall, radiant young man beaming back at us before jetting off into the distance with the grace of a gazelle.
“He’s running!” I cried to my brother. “Who runs up Ben Nevis?!” I cried in disbelief.
“Superhumans”, replied my brother while panting breathlessly on the side of a rock.
The Ben Nevis Race
As impossible as it is for a mere mortal like me to get my head around, every year up to 600 people compete in the Ben Nevis Race. The record for the fastest ascent and descent of Ben Nevis is held by Kenny Stuart, who completed the feat in just over 1 hour and 25 minutes in 1984. Yes, some people really are superhuman.
From this point we trudged on for what seemed like an eternity, but was probably closer to 1 hour 30 minutes. In what must have only been less than 45 minutes, the young man who had ran past us earlier, was now running past us again. He had reached the top and was now making his way back down.
He made the whole challenge of climbing the UK’s highest mountain look like it was nothing more than a walk in the park! The differences between us was comical. Despite a slight burn of humiliation, it gave me hope that the end was now in sight.
Reaching the summit of Ben Nevis – hooray!
The higher we got, the cooler it became and the occasional breeze felt like it had been personally delivered by the Gods. I was happy for the incredible weather and stunning vistas, but my throbbing face from the sweltering heat was a high price to be paying.
The closer we reached to the summit, we were encouraged by fellow hikers who were now on their way back down, ‘You can do it!’, ‘Not long to go now!’. The camaraderie gave me the extra push I needed to reach the top. To those people who will never read this: thank you.
By now, we were submerged in the clouds, a stark difference from down below. I put on another layer of clothing. We clamoured faster, knowing we were nearly there.
Greeted by large cairns to mark the highest point on the mountain. We had made it. The feeling of relief and personal satisfaction is something I can’t put into words.
The descent
After spending twenty minutes or so at the top, looking at the various cairns and landmarks, we descended the same way we climbed. We did go off the main track a couple of times, but it involved a bit of scrambling so I wouldn’t recommend doing this if you have any problems with your knees.
The greatest thing about the descent was the view of the surrounding peaks and valley, all of exceptional beauty. By now it was golden hour and the rays from the sun appeared almost biblical in how they broke through the clouds like shards of glass. With the hard part now over, I could truly appreciate what was laid out before me.
We spent most of our descent talking about what mountains we could climb next. Ben Nevis was our first, but certainly not our last.
Update! Climbing Mount Snowdon – The Highest Peak in Wales
How long did it take to climb Ben Nevis?
It took us approximately 6.5 hours to complete, with 3.5 hours to ascend and 3 hours to descend. Don’t treat it like a race, take your time to be careful and enjoy the incredible views that Ben Nevis has to offer.
Remember to check the weather
Ben Nevis is known for its rapidly changing weather. Check the weather forecast before your hike and be prepared for various conditions, including rain, wind, and low visibility.
What to pack
It is important you pack the necessary equipment to make the climb as easy and comfortable as possible. Here’s my recommended kit-list:
Clothing
- Thick socks and a pair spare incase they get wet passing the waterfalls
- Hiking boots
- Base layers
- Mid-layer top (Hoodies/Jackets)
- Comfortable trousers
- Insulated jacket
- Water proof jacket
- Lightwear gloves
- Wool/synthetic hat
- Sunhat
Gear
- Water bottle
- Trekking poles (if you are prone to sore knees)
- Backpack
- Headlamp
- Sun Glasses
Additional
- Power adaptor
- Camera
- Compass
- Sunscreen
- Snacks and drinks
- Plasters
Where to stay
Fort William is the closest town to Ben Nevis. The distance between Fort William to Ben Nevis’ trail head in Achintee is approximately 1.8 miles (3 km).
Fort William offers a range of accommodations to suit various budgets and preferences. From cosy B&Bs to hotels, to friendly hostels, and countryside castles. You’ll also be within walking distance to a range of restaurants, cafes, shops and museums.
My brother and I stayed at Clan Macduff Hotel. Drawn in by its stunning views across Loch Line, we very much felt like we were staying on nature’s doorstep. The rooms are very comfortable and tastefully decorated. After hiking up Ben Nevis, I was out like a light!
If you’re looking for a touch of Scottish luxury, and don’t mind staying a little further afield, you might want to take a look at Inverlochy Castle Hotel.
Nearby walks & hikes
I think Glencoe is one of the most beautiful areas of Scotland. Located only 25-minute drive away from Fort William, it makes the perfect add-on to hiking Ben Nevis. I recommend the poetically named Lost Valley Walk and also the Pap of Glencoe. Both are incredibly scenic and a lot easy than Ben Nevis you’ll be pleased to know!
If you have more time, I also recommend Oban. It’s a great base to explore lots of smaller islands on the West Coast such as Isle of Kerrera and the Isle of Mull.
Looking for more hikes and adventures in the UK?
Since hiking Ben Nevis I have been up the highest points of England, Wales and Ireland. Clearly Ben Nevis made an impact on me! So if you’re looking for your next challenge, maybe one of these posts will get you excited for your next UK adventure:
- Hiking Carrauntoohil – The Highest Mountain In Ireland
- Hiking Mount Snowden – the Highest Peak in Wales
Or maybe you’re looking to explore further afield?
One of my favourite places for nature and hiking in Europe is Slovenia. The nature is beyond beautiful and the hiking opportunities are endless. If you’re really looking to work your calf muscles, I recommend heading up Mount Triglav, the country’s highest peak. .
If you have any questions about climbing Ben Nevis, leave them in the comment section below!
10 responses
Congratulations!!! One of the things you’ll remember for life.
I had a differente experience in the winter of 2004, a little bit of snow more, but the camaraderie was the same!!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/paks/2531670285/in/album-72157614960576697/
Nice post!!
Hi! Wow, such a stark contrast! I definitely wasn’t anticipating the heat, but it did make for exceptional views. You’re right, definitely an experience for the memory bank – I’m sure you feel the same way. Btw, love your photos from the Faroe Islands!
Thank you Shing.
Hope to see more posts like this one from Scotland. Missing it a lot!!
Cool to read! I’m also not really a hiker/climber but every time I venture an area like this I always do one. And then I think why am I not doing this more often? Maybe I’m to much risk managing or something.. 🙂
I always think the same too – we should! Though climbing this has definitely spurned me into making a few positive lifestyle changes. Want to do more of these kind of trips now!
Congrats on bagging the tallest peak in the UK! In addition to the Ben Nevis Race, are you aware of the Three Peaks Challenge? The other two peaks are well-worth doing next. As well as the Yorkshire Three Peaks (possibly as warm-up :p?)
Hi Thomas! Yes, I’m originally from Yorkshire and it’s something I’d love to do! Not sure I have it in me to do the Three Peaks Challenge haha. Let’s see 😉 Have you done it? I’d love to do them separately though. Can’t wait to go hiking once we’re out of lockdown!
I’ve done the Yorkshire Three Peaks (which I’m sure you could manage) but not yet the Three Peaks Challenge itself. Very much agreed that doing so separately first makes sense, to better appreciate them. In fact this funny little book I read last year called Everest England (which combines Everest’s 29k feet in various hikes across the country) makes a worthy point that peak-bagging is more about a “calling, a summoning” than “conquering space”, for the author…This is a sentiment I share, but whatever gets people out more is good too :).
I went to Aviemore on holiday last month , when we arrived we all decided if the weather was good on the way home to Lincolnshire we would stop off and complete the climb up Ben Nevis, weather was scattered showers , we arrived at the car park at 9 am at the visitor centre, my Son who is 17 never done any walking up mountains before so i was a bit worried but we all came properly dressed and we all had back packs mine been the largest a 40 L ruck sack with more supplies to carry for my son and partner. It took us about 4 hours to the reach the top for me with a few stops to get a breather. My son and partner are a lot lighter than me and made it to the summit around 3 hrs and 45 mins , we sat for around 15 minutes then came down it took around 3 hrs to walk down so beautiful scenery.
Really enjoyed it but it was hard going for a fairly fit 52 year old 16 stone bloke climbing with an extra 8 kg on my back also the 8 hr drive back to Lincolnshire was hard going too. This was something i really wanted to do and i was so happy when i achieved this.