It is difficult to overstate the beauty of Theth without sounding like I must work for the local tourism board. Supported by a range of fantastic hiking trails, Theth is one of the most scenic mountain villages I’ve ever visited.
I had been initially lured to Theth by the prospect of doing the Valbona Pass, and in all honesty, visiting the Blue Eye in Theth was more of an afterthought. I decided it was merely something to do if I had spare time and energy.
I wasn’t sure what to expect beyond the Blue Eye itself – the main attraction – so what I didn’t envisage was some of the best scenery in the Albanian Alps. As with many things that come without expectation, it ended up being my favourite trail.
The landscape is incredibly diverse, with each stage of the hike impressing more than the next. You’ll come across charming wooden bridges passing over fast-flowing rivers that disperse into crystal-clear streams, picturesque farmland filled with grazing goats, and empty trails bar a few plucky sheep surrounded by the almighty Accursed Mountains looming overhead.
What is the 'Blue Eye' in Theth?
There’s something about the name ‘Blue Eye’ that sounds magisterial, even mythological. Its name alludes to the natural pool of turquoise water found on the periphery of Theth National Park in the Albanian Alps.
It may not be as well-known as its Blue Eye sibling in the south of Albania, but without the crowds, and taking longer to reach, visiting is considerably more enjoyable and rewarding.
Hike information: length, duration and difficulty
The mesmerising turquoise pool of water can be reached in about three hours one-way from southern Theth. On the walk over, you can also take a detour to admire Grunas Waterfall. Doing this adds another one hour (minimum) onto the hike so be sure to factor this in by setting off early.
While mostly flat, the route is relatively long (particularly if you include Grunas Waterfall) and does include rocky patches leading to the Blue Eye and some elevation gain. All things considered, I would classify it as a moderate hike.
- Distance: 19 km
- Elevation Gain: 650m (approx)
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Duration: Approx 6-7 hours
Alternatively, if you’re short on time you could begin in the picturesque village of Nderlysaj arriving by hire car or taxi.
After admiring the geological rocks and waterfall you will follow a wooded uphill path up the mountain for about 45 minutes. The round trip will take approximately 1.5 – 2 hrs (not including time spent at the Blue Eye).
Theth to Grunas Waterfall (1 hr)
Unlike many places in Europe, tourism to Albania is still relatively under wraps and as such there are no signs pointing you in the direction of either Grunas Waterfall or the Blue Eye. With the new road being built from Shkoder to Theth only two years ago, tourism is increasing, so I expect infrastructure to change rapidly over the next few years. For example, the month before I arrived, the first cash machine in Theth had been installed!
However, from the centre of town you’ll want to head in the southeast direction following the river. Occasionally, you’ll see hand-painted arrows and Albanian flags to signal that you’re going in the right direction.
Locals here are extremely friendly, so if you find yourself uncertain on the trail, they will be more than happy to point you in the right direction.
The detour to Grunas Waterfall (listed as Theth Waterfall on Maps.me) begins on the same trail as the one to the Blue Eye in Theth. Though shortly after crossing a quirky red bridge you will come to a little folk in the path. Make sure to take the path on the left. If you decide to skip the waterfall, continue on the right-hand side.
The path leads to a lovely meadow with a charming stone house complete with a traditional wooden roof. It’s the kind of place where time had stood still and you can imagine that anyone living there still probably milks their cows by hand.
Once we arrived at the waterfall, we scrambled to the top and took in the cooler air over a short break. The waterfall is nearly 30m in height and the water derives from the western foot of the Boshi mountain peak.
Grunas Waterfall to Nderlysaj (1.5 hrs)
After retracing our way from the waterfall to the initial fork in the path, we pressed onto the next stage of the hike – Nderlysaj. This was my favourite part of the hike with continuous views of the winding river and the pure sound of nature.
The terrain is relatively flat, but you will weave around boulders, over a couple of wooden cobbled-together bridges, and through small sections of woodland.
Eventually, you will see a road bridge which you’ll need to walk across. There are a few buildings and guesthouses to signal that you’re close to the village of Nderlysaj. On the map we saw that we needed to walk through a patch of farmland. We hesitated, wandering whether it was private property, but the owner waved us through.
I delighted in passing a few baby goats running circles around their mother. I didn’t linger around for long because the mother was looking at me intently. I felt it was a protective stare, the kind that mothers give to stupid, gawking strangers like me.
Once we passed the field, we headed onto a small path for a minute or two. It was here that I was completely stopped in my tracks by a huge herd of sheep.
Encounter with a friendly local
Realising that I was a bit startled, and so too were the sheep, the shepherd signalled me to carry on the walking. The saying, a deer in the headlights most definitely applied.
The vision of sharing the trail with so many sheep was such a surprise that I wanted to capture the moment. I pointed to my phone, hoping the shepherd would understand that I was asking for permission to take a photo.
I was expecting a nod of the head, but instead he started grinning mischievously and playing up to the camera. Within a few seconds we were laughing and he asked me (through hand gestures) if I wanted to hold one of his lambs.
Before I could react, he scooped one up from his flock and attempted to thrust it into my arms, but I flailed around and opted to give it a kiss on the head instead. The shepherd crackled as if realising I was crossing unfamiliar territory. (Now that’s how you tell someone you’re a city girl without actually saying you’re a city girl!)
I asked him his name, which he understood and replied, ‘Ded Nika’. Honestly, I can say with my hand on my heart that Ded Nika is my absolute favourite person that I’ve ever encountered on any hiking trail around the world. His infectious laughter, genuine smile, and playful spirit is something that will absolutely stay with me. He made it a hike to remember, along with his headstrong flock of sheep!
Nderlysaj to the Blue Eye (45 min - 1 hr)
Once I made it past the sheep, I found myself in Nderlysaj within a couple of minutes. The setting is beyond beautiful with a crystal clear expanse of turquoise water surrounded by lofty canyons. If someone had told me that this was the Blue Eye, I would not have been disappointed in the slightest.
The adventure continued as I followed the trail up and alongside a small statue of the Virgin Mary. Opposite is a magnificent view of the canyon. You can appreciate the erosive activity of the water and the unique limestone carvings that have formed an extraordinary sight.
Initially, the path cuts through a valley and offers incredible mountain views. Soon, you will take a small uphill dirt track that forks off to the right. This path twists and turns and hugs the side of the mountain that leads to the Blue Eye.
As you draw closer you will hear the sound of the river growing stronger. Make sure to cross over the wooden bridge and follow the path for less than five minutes until you reach your final destination – the majestic Blue Eye of Theth.
Arrival at the Blue Eye in Theth
You can attempt to swim in the waters, but doing so is at your own peril – the water is freezing! Incredibly, there was not a single other person when we arrived, but admittedly it was getting late and everyone else had already been and gone.
We spotted a cafe up above the Blue Eye where you can purchase snacks and drinks but it was already closed. Fortunately, we had packed our own food so stayed for a while to fuel up and admire the starling blue waters before making the long and scenic journey back to our accommodation.
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